014764   Krupincova G (Textile Technology Dep, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Technical University of Liberec, 461 17 Liberec, Czech Republic, Email: gabriela.krupincova@tul.cz) : Yarn hairiness versus quality of cotton fibres. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(3), 223-9.

The influence of yarn construction parameters (yarn count and yarn twist) and quality of cotton fibres in terms of HVI parameters on yarn hairiness has been studied. The Uster Tester 4 and Zweigle G 567 are used for yarn hairiness investigation. The statistical methods (correlation analysis and principal component analysis PCA) are applied to verify significance of yarn hairiness parameter in yarn quality control process. The proposed PCA model can be effectively used as a qualitative criterion during yarn quality inspection. The predictive model for yarn hairiness estimation based on fibre and yarn parameters has been successfully designed using the regression analysis and can be used for prediction of yarn hairiness, expressed by hairiness index H.

4 illus, 2 tables, 15 ref

014763   Koranne M;Chattopadhyay D P;Jaiswal H (Textile Engineering Dep, Faculty of Technology and Engineering, The M S University of Baroda, Vadodara-390 001, Email: milvako@yahoo.co.uk) : Enhancement in the properties of jute-cotton union fabrics through wet processing treatments: Part I-Simple woven structures with jute weft in subdued form. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(3), 270-5.

Plain and warp rib woven fabrics with cotton warp and jute weft have been produced in such a way that appearance of jute weft is subdued on fabric surface. The fabrics are then subjected to four kinds of wet processing treatments viz. bleaching with hydrogen peroxide followed by peracetic acid termed as sequential bleaching, woollenisation, chemical softening and bio softening followed by chemical softening to suppress harshness and prickliness of jute component and to enhance fabric properties. Improvement in fabric properties is determined through objective and subjective evaluation. All the treatments improve the fabric handle as measured through the reduction in bending length and drape coefficient. Among all the treatments sequential belching is found to be the best so far as improvement in feel of the fabric is concerned.

4 illus, 6 tables, 6 ref

014762   Khosravi F;Sadeghi A H;Jolai F (Textile Dep, Amirkabir University of Technology, Tehran, Iran, Email: fereshteh87@aut.ac.ir) : An improvement in calculation method for apparel assembly line balancing. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(3), 259-64.

A calculation method has been developed to determine the number of workstations and cycle time, considering one machine type at each workstation, normally preferred in apparel industries. The findings are compared with the earlier findings with respect to criterions such as the number of workers, the level of workers' skill, the number of used machine and the number of worker's movement between machines. The results show improvement in line balancing when taking into consideration the machine type feature. Hence, a model is proposed for apparel assembly line balancing to take into consideration the machine type assigned to each workstation so that it has a specific advantage for apparel assembly lines.

3 illus, 5 tables, 6 ref

014761   Haque M A;Khan G M A;Razzaque S M A;Khatun K; Chakraborty A K;Alam M S (Polymer Research Laboratory, Applied Chemistry and Chemical Technology, Islamic University, Kushtia 7003, Bangladesh, Email: dr.alamiu@yahoo.com) : Extraction of rubiadin dye from Swietenia mahagoni and its dyeing characteristics onto silk fabric using metallic mordants. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(3), 280-4.

Rubiadin dye extracted from Swietenia mahagoni has been applied onto silk fabric and its dyeing properties are evaluated using metallic mordants MgCl₂ and FeSO₄ as a function of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and pH. It is observed that the dye exhaustion significantly increases in case of FeSO₄ as compared to that in case of MgCl₂. Colour shades of dyed silk fabrics are found to be dark dull red, dark bright yellow and too dark red for unmordanted, MgCl₂ mordanted and FeSO₄ mordanted dyeing respectively. The colour strength of FeSO₄ mordanted dyed fabric is found to be 3.19 times higher than unmordanted and 1.11 times higher than MgCl₂ mordanted dyed fabrics. Dyed fabrics show good fastness properties. FeSO₄ mordanted dyed fabric shows more resistance against light, washing, rubbing and perspiration as compared with the other mordanted and dyed fabrics.

1 illus, 2 tables, 15 ref

014760   Haijian C;Kejing Y;Kun Q (Key Laboratory of Eco-textiles, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, Jiangsu, People's Republic of China, Email: composites_115@163.com ) : Sound insulation property of three-dimensional spacer fabric composites. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(3), 304-8.

Three-dimensional composites with different pile height, face-sheet thickness and pile structure have been manufactured in order to study the relationship between the sound insulation properties and the structures of the 3D composites. Methods of reverberation-anechoic chambers are used to study the sound insulation property. The results show that three-dimensional spacer fabric composites have excellent sound insulation properties. The sound insulation property increases with the increase in pile height and face-sheet thickness. The sound insulation property of the `8'-shaped pile structures is found to be better than that of `88'-shaped structure. The results would offer important guidance function on structure optimization and property analysis of three-dimensional spacer fabric composites.

^ssc6 illus, 2 tables, 18 ref

014759   Ganesan P;Ramachandran T;KarthikT;Vadivu P K (Textile Technology Dep, , Coimbatore-641 105, Email: ganeshg007@gmail.com) : Extraction of copper enriched seeds for healthcare textiles. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(3), 313-16.

This study explores the antimicrobial activity of copper extracts from the seeds of sesame, sunflower, pumpkin, soybean, and watermelon. The extracts were applied on the lyocell fabric by exhaust and microencapsulation method. The structure of microcapsules has been evaluated using polarized light microscopy, and the presence of microcapsules by scanning electron microscopy. It is observed that the microencapsulated herbal extracts possess better antimicrobial activity and wash fastness even after 15 washes.

^ssc3 illus, 3 tables, 10 ref

014758   Das A;Chakraborty R (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi-110 016, Email: apurba65@gmail.com) : Elastane-cotton core-spun stretch yarns and fabrics: Part IÄYarn characteristics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(3), 237-43.

Reports the interaction effect of elastane stretch, proportion of elastane core and twist multiplier on physical and mechanical properties of stretchable elastane-cotton core-spun yarns. The core component is 78 dtex elastane filament and the sheath consists of cotton. The core-spun yarns are produced in a modified ring frame. A three-variable factorial design technique, proposed by Box & Behnken has been used to study the combined interaction effect of the above variables on various yarn characteristics, like tenacity, breaking elongation, yarn-to-metal friction, elastic recovery and hairiness. It is observed that the above parameters have significant impact on all the yarn characteristics except breaking elongation.

4 illus, 4 tables, 21 ref

013703   Krishnaveni V (Fashion Technology Dep, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 049, Email: krishnassstyle@gmail.com) : Combined antimicrobial and coolant finishing treatment for cotton using yashtimadhu (Glycyrrhza glabra L.) roots extract. Indian J nat Prod Resour 2013, 4(3), 245-9.

Yashtimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) root extract was used to impart antimicrobial and coolant finishing to the cotton fabric. The extraction was done by direct extraction method using distilled water as a solvent and it was applied on to the cotton fabric by pad-dry-cure process with the optimized process conditions of Temperature -37°C, Time-4 h, pH - 7 and Concentration-50%. The fifty percent concentration of yashtimadhu root extract finished fabric showed a better zone of inhibition against Gram positive Staphylococcus aureus bacteria. The thermal resistance test results indicated that the extract finished fabric expressed lower thermal resistance value with high coolant property compared to unfinished fabric sample. The O-H and C-C functional groups present in the herbal extract also proved the characteristics of higher absorbency and thermal property by FTIR, Wetting and Wicking tests. The 50% concentration of yashtimadhu extract finished fabric exhibited better thermal resistance and antimicrobial activity and the fabric retained the finishes after 15 wash cycles.

4 tables, 13 ref

013702   De A K (NO, Raja Peary Mohan College, Uttarpara-712 258, Email: arnabde99@yahoo.co.in) : Decolorization of hardwood black liquor using coal fly ash and silica gel. J Instn Chem India 2012, 84(2), 50-3.

Pulp and paper industries are one of the most polluting industries and is highly water intensive. Pulp and paper industry is the third largest water consuming industry in India. Fresh water consumptions in wood-based and agro-based paper mills are 125-200 and 125-225 rn³/per tonne of paper production respectively. The color of effluent discharged from pulp and paper industries into streams and rivers have been a serious environmental problem. The color of the effluent is due to the presence of lignin and its derivative which impart dark brown color to the black liquor and waste water. The color persists for a long distance because lignin and its derivatives present in the effluent are not easily biodegraded. The black liquor and effluents are conventionally treated by biological methods-which reduce COD and BOD but cannot reduce color. Color removal of pulp and paper mills have been studied using waste sludge and fungi. In earlier publication, bamboo black liquor and agro-based paper mills black liquor were treated using coal fly ash by the author. In the present investigation, coal fly ash an industrial solid waste has been used as an adsorbent for decolorization of mixed hardwood black liquor of pulp and paper mills. Comparative studies were performed with silica gel for decolorization of mixed hardwood black liquor.

2 illus, 7 ref

012647   Li D;Li J;Pan Q (NO, School of Textile Science & Engineering, Wuhan Textile Univ, Wuhan, Hubei-430 073, China, Email: ljq@wtu.edu.cn) : Preparation of polyamine wheat straw cellulose for adsorption of chromium (VI) and adsorption isotherm study. Res J Chem Envir 2014, 18(1), 41-4.

Wheat Straw Cellulose (WSC) modified by diethylenetriamine was investigated as an adsorbent for Cr(VI) removal from aqueous solution. The preparing parameters on preparation of Polyamine Wheat Straw Cellulose (PWSC) were optimized. The effects of pH, adsorbent dose, contact time

6 illus, 1 table, 7 ref

011570   Wang L;Ding X;Wu X;Yu J (NO, Fashion Institute of Design, Donghua Univ, Shanghai-200 051, China, Email: wuxy@shciq.gov.cn) : Textiles industrial water footprint: methodology and study. J scient ind Res 2013, 72(11), 710-5.

Concept of water footprint (WF) is an important breakthrough in the evolving of methodologies, approaches and indicators for measuring freshwater appropriation and assessing the wastewater discharge. Industrial water footprint (IWF) methodology, which concentrates on the industrial production stages, can present a clear graphic of freshwater consumption and impacts caused by wastewater discharge at both product and technology level. In this paper, IWFs of seven kinds of knitted fabrics were calculated through field survey and referred to published literatures. These case studies revealed that the majority of the IWFs were caused by grey industrial water footprints, the volume of water required to dilute pollutants. Dyeing, bleaching and washing were freshwater intensive technologies. Generally this may be one of the typical features of dyed and finished fabrics. It is meaningful to reduce the freshwater consumption of the hot-spots through the improvement of freshwater management pattern and production techniques. Specific recommendations for further research in this field were also proposed in t

3 illus, 1 table, 19 ref

011569   Senthilkumar M;Sampath M B;Ramachandran T (Textile technology Dep, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore-641 004, Email: cmsenthilkumar@yahoo.com) : Moisture management in an active sportswear: techniques and evaluation. J Instn Engrs : Ser E 2013, 93(2), 61-8.

Moisture management property is an important aspect of any fabric meant for active sportswear, which decides the comfort level of that fabric. Every human being sweats during different kinds of activities. An important feature of any fabric is how it transports this water out of the body, so as to make the wearer feel comfortable. This paper reports the concept of moisture management, various production techniques and evaluation of the moisture management characteristics on fabrics for active sportswear.

^iia40 ref

011568   Saravanan D (Textile Technology Dep, Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam, Email: dhapathe2001@rediffmail.com) : Scouring potential of mesophile acidic proteases of Pseudomonas aeruginosa for grey cotton fabrics. J Instn Engrs : Ser E 2013, 93(2), 75-81.

Mesophile, acidic proteases were produced using the microbial source, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, with wider thermal tolerances. Process conditions of scouring treatment were optimized using Taguchi method for optimum temperature, time, pH and concentration of protease. Treatment with the protease lower weight loss values compared to the alkali scouring, however, significant improvement in the absorbency compared to the grey samples was observed. Large amounts of pectin left out in the samples resulted in higher extractable impurities, substantiated by the FTIR results. Relatively, lower reduction in the tear strengths was observed in both warp and weft directions after protease treatment of the cotton fabrics.

7 illus, 3 tables, 18 ref

011567   Banerjee D;Ghosh A;Das S (Production Engineering Dep, Jadavpur Univ, Kolkata-700 032, Email: anindya.textile@gmail.com) : Yarn strength modelling using genetic fuzzy expert system. J Instn Engrs : Ser E 2013, 93(2), 83-90.

Deals with the modelling of cotton yarn strength using genetic fuzzy expert system. Primarily a fuzzy expert system has been developed to model the cotton yarn strength from the constituent fibre parameters such as fibre strength, upper half mean length, fibre fineness and short fibre content. A binary coded genetic algorithm has been used to improve the prediction performance of the fuzzy expert system. The experimental validation confirms that the genetic fuzzy expert system has significantly better prediction accuracy and consistency than that of the fuzzy expert system.

7 illus, 5 tables, 12 ref

011566   Alarmelumangai K;Brindha D;Vinodhini S; Malathy N S (Botany Dep, PSGR Krishnammal College for Women, Peelamedu. Coimbatore-641 004, Email: alarmelumangaik@gmail.com) : Characterization of fibers from Hibiscus ovalifolius and H. vitifolius based on their morphometric derivations and chemical composition. Geobios 2012, 39(4), 181-4.

The fiber extracted from Hibiscus ovalifolius and H. vitifolius revealed that the cellulose content and slenderness ratio from the former are about 40% and 224, respectively higher than the later when compared. The investigations of fiber dimensions and cellulose, hemicelluloses and lignin content along with their various indices showed that the fiber is suitable for various grades of paper industry and textile industry.

6 illus, 1 table, 15 ref

010495   Tyagi G K;Goyal A;Chattopadhyay R (NO, MLV Textile & Engineering College, Bhilwara-311 001, Email: drgktyagi@rediffmail.com) : Influence of twist and blend ratio on characteristics of ring-spun tencel blended yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 138-43.

The properties of tencel-polyester and tencel-cotton blended ring-spun yarns produced with five different blend ratios and six twist factors have been studied. It is observed that tencel-polyester yarns are stronger, more extensible, more even, rigid, less hairy and have fewer imperfections than their tencel-cotton counterparts. A higher level of twist produces a yarn with higher extension, unevennes, imperfection and flexural rigidity, and lower hairiness. The yarn strength, on the other hand, increases initially but decreases thereafter as the yarn twist

3 illus, 5 tables, 8 ref

010494   Tokarska M (Architecture of Textiles Dep, Lodz Technology Univ, Zeromskiego 116, 90-924 Lodz, Poland, Email: magdalena.tokarska@p.lodz.pl) : Measuring resistance of textile materials based on Van der Pauw method. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 198-201.

New approach has been made to determine electro-conductive properties of a textile product on the basis of the idea of Van der Pauw method. This method is used to determine only two characteristic resistances associated with four electrodes. Surface resistivity of the sample is not determined because this technique requires some special conditions. The influence of the contact diameter of electrodes as well as the electrodes arrangement on the resistance value of textile sample has been studied. The results show that in case of selected range of the electrodes diameters, the contact diameters do not affect resistance when constant force is applied. However, the impact of electrodes arrangement on the resistance measurements is found to be noticeable. Anisotropy of electrical properties of the textile sample is also studied.

2 illus, 1 table, 17 ref

010493   Thiagarajan P;Nalankilli G (Textile Technology Dep, Anna Univ, Coimbatore-641 013, Email: gnalankilli@yahoo.com) : Improving light fastness of reactive dyed cotton fabric with antioxidant and UV absorbers. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 161-4.

Cotton fabrics have been dyed with C. I. Reactive Yellow 84, C. I. Reactive Red 22 and C. I. Reactive Blue 19 dyes and the effect of some commonly used antioxidants and UV absorbers is studied in order to improve light fastness property. The antioxidants such as gallic acid, vitamin C and cafeic acid, and the UV absorbers such as 2-hydroxybenzophenone and phenyl salicylate have been applied on reactive dyed cotton fabric by exhaust method. Treated samples are then tested for fastness properties as per international standards. The results show no change in colour depth during after treatment. In all the cases, the use of UV absorbers or antioxidants improves the light fastness of dyed fabrics. The most effective light fastness improvement is found by the application of vitamin C.

2 illus, 15 ref

010492   Shim W S;Lee D W (Textile Engineering Chemistry & Science Dep, North Carolina State Univ, Raleigh, NC 27695-8301, USA) : Quality variables of meltblown submicron filter materials. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 132-7.

Meltblown submicron fibre filter media has been produced at a production rate of a few orders of magnitude higher than that of conventional single syringe electrospinning. Fibres are produced while varying the air pressure and die-to-collector distance (DCD). The submicron fibres are about 240 nm in diameter. The average fibre diameter of the submicron fibre nonwoven filters media decreases with increasing DCD and air pressure. The average fibre diameter of each sample is indirectly related to the, hydrohead and filtration efficiency, but is directly related to the pore size. The quality factors improve slightly for samples produced at a greater DCD, whereas the quality factors for the media decrease slightly for samples produced at a higher air pressure. The average fibre diameter is related to the hydrohead, filtration efficiency, and pore size; The sample MSFM6 is found to have the smallest average fibre diameter and the highest filtration efficiency. The filtration efficiency of different submicron fibre nonwoven media samples improve with increasing DCD or air pressure. The use of nanofibrous media has proved to be a good way to filter out submicron-sized particles.

3 illus, 3 tables, 31 ref

010491   Shakyawar D B;Raja A S M;Ajay Kumar;Pareek P K;Wani S A (Textile Manufacture and Textile Chemistry Div, Central Sheep and Wool Research Institute, Avikanagar-304 501, Email: asmraja16475@gmail.com) : Pashmina fibre -Production, characteristics and utilization. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 207-14.

Pashmina, popularly known as 'Cashmere', is well known for its fineness, warmth, softness, desirable aesthetic value, elegance and timelessness in fashion. It is most luxurious, softer and warmer than superfine merino wool. The word pashmina is originated from a word 'pashm' means 'soft gold' in local language, and 'wool' in Persian language. India produces about 40-50 tonnes of fibre annually. The fibre is mostly used for preparing shawls with intricate designs by the artisans of Srinagar. An attempt has been made to provide comprehensive review covering production, processing and utilization aspects of pashmina fibre.

2 illus, 2 tables, 28 ref

010490   Seyam A F M;Won J (NO, College of Textiles, NC State Univ, Raleigh, North Carolina, USA, Email: aseyam@ncsu.edu) : Development of UV protective electrospun layers for high performance fibres for high altitude applications. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 121-5.

In this study, a range of lightweight UV protective layers has been developed from electrospun polyurethane loaded with different amount of rutile TiO₂ nanoparticles using electrospinning with variable speed drum (collecting surface). To assess the degree of protection of the manufactured layers, a braid from Zylonr fibres has been sheathed with the protective layers of different weight per braid unit length and the strength of yarns raveled from the braids is measured. The strength retention after exposure to artificial UV rays in Atlas Weatherometer for six days is used as a measure of the degree of sheath protection. Electrospun polyurethane layers loaded with 1% of TiO₂ with weight of 2.29 g/m braid, processed at high speed collector (87.7 m/min), provide the highest protection among the developed electrospun polyurethane layers.

4 illus, 2 tables, 10 ref

010489   Saravanan D;Sree Lakshmi S N;Senthil Raja K; Vasanthi N S (Textile Technology Dep, Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam-638 401, Email: dhapathe2001@rediffmail.com) : Biopolishing of cotton fabric with fungal cellulase and its effect on the morphology of cotton fibres. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 156-60.

Attempt has been made to analyse structural changes in cotton fibres occurred during biopolishing using cellulases obtained from Trichoderma reesei. Cellulase hydrolysis results in weight loss of the samples, which, in turn, results in the splitting of fibres and removal of surface irregularities of the fibres as revealed by SEM images. Degree of crystallinity is not influenced by the biopolishing process due to random hydrolysis of the cellulase enzymes on cotton fibres. Lateral order of the crystallites, measured between (101) and (10 1 ) peaks of the x-ray diffraction reduces from 0.662 to 0.667 on account of the hydrolysis though the crystallite thickness measured perpendicular to (002) plane remains unchanged. FTIR results reveal the increased -OH bending, CH₂ in-plane bending, and C-H vibrations of the cellulose chains in the biopolished cotton samples using cellulase.

3 illus, 24 ref

010488   Saini H K;Saggu H K (Clothing and Textiles Dep, Punjab Agricultural Univ, Ludhiana, Punjab, Email: harsaini67@yahoo.com) : Automation and CAD/CAM adoption in knitwear production. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(2), 378-81.

The present investigation was carried out to study the automation and CAD/CAM adoption in knitwear production. For this study, data were collected from 110 knitwear units of Ludhiana consisting 56 small scale knitwear units, 29 medium scale knitwear units and 25 large scale knitwear units by using interview schedule. The sample was selected according to the probability proportional to size by following stratified sampling technique. The results revealed that with the adoption of automation and CAD/CAM systems in knitwear production, there was considerable decrease in lead time of fabric and garment production which is very important to be competitive in the market. Majority of the units used CAD/CAM systems in pattern cutting and garment assembly. The impact of automation and CAD/CAM systems on knitwear production revealed that the rate of design production, quality of design, production capacity, quality of production and communication speed increased whereas lead time, manufacturing cost, overall labour cost, and manpower decreased.

4 tables, 3 ref

010487   Rajdeep Kaur;Bains S (Clothing and Textiles Dep, Punjab Agicultural Univ, Ludhiana, Punjab, Email: msrajdeepct@pau.edu) : Starched farbic as protective cover for pesticide applications. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(2), 302-4.

The garments worn by the pesticide applicators may not provide adequate protection to the skin, when contaminated with a sprayed liquid, unless the surface of the fabric has been treated in someway to reduce the penetration to an acceptable level. So, a study was conducted in which the cotton/polyester blended samples were given barrier treatment with 10 per cent, 20 per cent and 30 per cent starch solution and pesticide was sprayed on all these samples. These pesticide contaminated cotton/ polyester blended samples were given different laundering treatments i.e. 5 per cent salt at 50°C, 5 per cent salt at 80°C, 2 per cent heavy duty detergent at 50°C, 2 per cent heavy duty detergent at 80°C. While comparing the transmittance, it was observed that the starched samples given barrier treatment with 20 per cent starch solution had more per cent transmittance value than the samples treated with 10 per cent and 30 per cent starch solution thus reducing penetration of pesticide to some level. Further, it was observed that washing cotton/ polyester blended fabric with 2 per cent heavy duty detergent solution at 80°C was the best condition from all the starched samples. Overall, cotton/ polyester blended fabric given barrier treatment with 20 per cent starch solution and laundered with 2 per cent heavy duty detergent solution at 80°C can be recommended for the pesticide applicators as it reduced the contamination.

3 tables, 4 ref

010486   Patra A K;Mahish S S;Chakraborty J N (NO, Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani-127 021, Email: arunkpatra@rediffmail.com) : Wet pretreatment of linen by enzyme and alternative bleaching techniques. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 150-5.

An attempt has been made to scour linen with a multifunctional cultured enzyme containing pectinase and xylanase. The activity level of the individual component in the enzyme is measured and then the optimum level of treatment is obtained. The removal of impurities is measured in terms of methylene blue absorption, residual lignin and absorbency. Bleaching with peroxide using sodium persulphate as activator has also been attempted along with scouring as well as a separate process. Combined scouring - bleaching although does not yield very good whiteness, the two-step pretreatment gives satisfactory results. Bleaching with KMnO₄ is also effectively done but with relatively higher strength loss. For ease in interpretation, the results are analysed with polar diagrams.

3 illus, 3 tables, 13 ref

010485   Panneerselvan R G (Weaving Dep, Weavers' Service Centre, Kancheepuram-631 502, Email: rgpanneer61@gmail.com) : Use of MS paint for jacquard graph designing and printing. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 186-92.

The possibility of using MS paint, the drawing accessory of MS window, as a simple jacquard graph designing software to prepare graph design with required weave marks and to take the graph print in required graph count from the given jacquard design has been explored. The steps involved in preparing jacquard design, applying weave marks and converting the jacquard design of raster pixel form into graph paper form have been evolved. Usefulness of different menus and tools for preparing the required weave marks, graph count, different marks, blanks, and its overlapping have been studied. It is observed that without making any additional programming, the paint tool is directly useful not only to edit the scanned vector design in raster pixel form but also to apply weave marks to prepare weave design for electronic jacquard weaving or electronic card punching. The analysis also describes how to convert the weave design into graphical form and take the graph prints of the design for mechanical card punching machine.

^ssc7 illus, 5 ref

010484   Osman H;Khairy M (Textile Printing, Dyeing & Finishing Dep, Faculty of Applied Arts, Benha Univ, Benha, Egypt, Email: m.shawkey.2006@gmail.com) : Optimization of polyester printing with disperse dye nanoparticles. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 202-6.

Nanoparticle size disperse dye treated with ultrasound has been applied on polyester fabric without using a carrier. Various dyeing and process parameters used are studied in detail, such as K/S values, dye particle size, dye exposure to ultrasound waves, printing paste pH, steaming conditions of prints, morphological study using SEM and TEM of dye particles and fastness properties of the prints. The use of nanosized dye particles enormously improves the colour depth of the prints without the addition of extra chemicals to the printing paste.

5 illus, 1 table, 13 ref

010483   Namrata M;Naik S D (Textile and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Rural Home Science, Agricultural Science Univ, Dharwad, Karnataka, Email: profshailajanaik@gmail.com) : Trendy naturally coloured cotton Khadi outfits with innovative detachable concept. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(2), 490-5.

In the study, naturally coloured cotton (DDCC-1 Dharwad Desi Coloured Cotton-1) Khadi fabric which is almond brown in colour was selected to create demand for environment friendly textile products. Further, to re-instate naturally coloured cotton fabric and make it trendy to suit present fashion conscious society, an innovative detachable concept is introduced in dress making. Ladies top with detachable lower panel and neckline, gent's shirt with detachable collar, cuff and button stand followed by gent's kurta with detachable collar and button stand were designed and constructed. Later, these ladies wear were embellished with Karnatak kasuti, machine embroidery and zardosi followed by gents wear with Karnatak kasuti and machine embroidery only. These designer's wear can save our pocket money where one apparel can be mixed and matched with several combinations of detachable garment components according to individual's interest, fashion and occasion.

9 illus, 2 tables, 4 ref

010482   Maamoun D;Ghalab S (Textile Printing, Dyeing and Finishing Dep, Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan Univ, Giza, Egypt, Email: daliamaamoun@gmail.com) : Plasma utilization for treating wool/polyester blended fabric to improve its printability. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 180-5.

Wool/polyester blended fabric (45/55) has been printed using two different dye mixtures. The substrate is exposed to low temperature plasma treatment prior to printing and then the prints are steamed and washed off. The changes induced in wettability, tensile strength and colour strength of treated samples are studied. The surface morphology of treated fabric is investigated using scanning electron microscopy. The experimental results indicate that the wettability and colour strength of treated fabrics are enhanced. Moreover, changes in surface morphology of treated samples are also observed.

5 illus, 1 table, 26 ref

010481   El-Thalouth I A;Ragheb A A;Nassar S H;Ibrahim M A;Shahin A A (Textile Research Div, National Research Centre, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt, Email: asmaa_shahine@yahoo.com) : Evaluation of enzymatic hydrolyzed starches in discharge, discharge-resist and burn-out printing styles. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 173-9.

Maize starch samples have been subjected to gelatinization at 70°C followed by enzymatic treatment using different concentrations of α-amylase enzyme (0.025, 0.050, 0.075 and 0.1 mL/50g starch) and then used in printing paste as thickener for discharge, discharge-resist and burn-out printing on cotton, wool/polyester and viscose/polyester/lucre fabrics. The results show that enzymatic treatment of maize starch converts the rheological properties of starch from thixotropic into pseudo-plastic. Increase in α-amylase enzyme concentration is accompanied by a decrease in the apparent viscosity. While enzyme-treated starches give better results when used as thickening agent in discharge-resist printing compared with sodium alginate, the opposite holds true in case of discharge printing. Enzyme-treated starches specially that prepared using 0.1 mL/50g starch could act successfully as thickening agent in burn-out printing of both wool/polyester and viscose/ polyester/lucre blends.

2 illus, 2 tables, 17 ref

010480   El-Thalouth I A;El-Hennawi H M;El-Salam S S A;Adel E (Dyeing Printing and Textile Auxiliaries Dep, Textile Research Div, National Research Centre, Cairo, Egypt, Email: dr.heba.hennawi@gmail.com) : Minimization of dyestuff pollutions using native, alkali-treated or bleached cellulose of rice straw as adsorbent. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 144-9.

Cellulose rice straw pulp has been prepared via alkali scouring and scouring+ bleaching and then used along with the raw material as, dye adsorbents for some selected reactive dyes. Factors affecting dyestuff adsorption such as technique applied (mechanical shaking and ultrasonic), time, temperature, amount of substrate and concentration of the dyestuff have been thoroughly investigated. It is found that % colour removal depends on (i) nature of reactive dye used, (ii) degree of purity of adsorbent i.e. either native, alkali-treated or bleached cellulose, and (iii) technique applied during dye adsorption.

4 illus, 28 ref

010479   El-Ola S M A;Moharam M E;El-Bendary M A (Proteinic and Synthetic Fibre Dep, National Research Center, Dokki, Giza, Egypt, Email: asnim41@yahoo.com) : Optimum conditions for surface modification of PET by lipase enzymes produced by Egyptian bacilli in comparison with standard one. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 165-72.

The optimum conditions for surface modification of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) by lipase enzymes produced under economic conditions by two Egyptian bacilli (Bacillus isolate 6C and Bacillus isolate 5W) have been obtained and then compared with reference sample. The optimum conditions are found to be 0.04 mg/mL enzyme concentration, 0.5 h incubation time, room temperature (25 °C) and pH 8 under shaking conditions. Addition of 0.15% CaCl₂ to the treatment bath enhances both the hydrophilicity (18-26%) and dyeability (22- 194%). The effect of hydrolytic activity of enzymatic process on the weight loss after treatment does not show any significant difference. Printing both untreated and treated PET fabrics with transfer printing shows high leveling properties w.r.t. ΔE values, where it is considered as acceptable values of color differences. PET treated with different sources of lipase enzyme under optimum conditions shows good physical properties and high water regain. SEM of the surface of lipase treated PET samples shows cracks and voids compared to smooth surface of untreated PET fabrics.

1 illus, 5 tables, 31 ref

010478   Dhanalaxmi R K;Vastrad J V;Pujari M (Textile and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Rural Home Science, Agricultural Sciences Univ, Dharwad, Karnataka, Email: jyotivasrad@gmail.com) : Mesta/organic cotton blended yarns for diversified end uses. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(2), 396-8.

Mesta is commonly grown in every farmer's field either as a subsidiary vegetable crop or as a hedge crop or on bunds as wind breakers. Mesta fibre extraction is a routine process practiced in every farm family in Karnataka. Hence, the present study was designed to explore the possibility of spinning pure and blended mesta yarns with different proportions. Results found that mesta fibres have added strength to the cotton yarn simultaneously decreased the elongation and increase in the ratio of mesta fibre for blending reduces the cost of production of cotton yarn.

1 illus, 1 table, 3 ref

010477   Devinder Kaur;Gandotra V (Clothing and Textiles Dep, Punjab Agricultural Univ, Ludhiana, Punjab) : Design development of traditional embroidery motifs in knitwears through computer aided designing. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(2), 500-2.

Technological advancements have brought automation and computer aided manufacturing (CAD/CAM) system in all the areas including textile and garment industry.CAD has specific design system using computer as a tool to design anything from aircraft to knitwears. India has a fairly large hosiery industries and most of the hosiery units are concentrated in Punjab. Today, the consumption of knitted goods has increased rapidly and consumer demand for garments which are comfortable and fashionable. Computerized embroidery machines are available to cater the needs of bulk production and to match the international standards. Phulkari is the traditional embroidered shawl of rural folk of Punjab. Now as the traditional products are being widely used and adopted in latest fashion trends, the designers have begun to explore conventional motifs in modern textiles. To keep pace with changing demands of the consumer taste and fashion, the conventional embroidery motifs provide a source of inspiration to many young designers in developing interesting patterns. The presented study was conducted to design simple but stylish knitwear product with traditional embroidery stitch of Phulkari. For conducting the present study a total of thirty Phulkari motifs were identified on the basis of primary and secondary sources. Preferences of consumers were studied for these designs and based on the preferences of eighty randomly selected respondents in the age group of twenty to thirty years, ten most preferred designs were developed for knitwear using Phulkari motif. Thus, ten designs were developed with five different colour combinations for the production of final articles.

4 illus, 1 table, 2 ref

010476   Bhavani K;Sharada Devi A (NO, Krishi Vigyan Kendra, Bidar, Karnataka) : Comparative study of colour fastness properties of naturally dyed carpet yarns cellulosic in composition. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(2), 587-91.

The natural fibres such as cotton, sisal, banana and jute which are cellulosic in nature were spun into yarns and dyed using natural sources. The carpet yarns were further tested for colourfastness to sunlight, washing and rubbing. The results of the study showed that, in case of banana yarns, good to excellent wet rubbing fastness was observed in all colours and slight staining by all colours except maroon which showed noticeable change. Naturally dyed jute yarns showed good to excellent fastness properties to sunlight, washing and rubbing. The sunlight fastness of naturally dyed cotton yarns ranged from poor to good for most of the yarns. The dyed cotton yarns registered good to excellent wash fastness to change in colour, slight to negligible staining was seen on both cotton and silk samples. On the whole, the sunlight fastness properties of dyed cotton yarns were poor when compared to jute, banana and sisal yarns. Many dyes which have poor fastness to light are fluorescent dyes and usually more photosensitive and fade more rapidly because the active life period of their molecules is longer and the chances of collision with oxygen of the air, therefore is greater.

4 tables, 6 ref

010475   Ahmad M R;Yahya M H M;Ahmad W Y W;Sellah J; Hassim N (NO, Faculty of Applied Sciences, Teknologi MARA Univ, 40450 Shah Alam, Selangor, Malaysia) : Actuation performance of shape memory alloy friction-spun yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 193-7.

DREF 3000 friction spinning. The delivery speed (m/min) and suction pressure (rpm) are varied, while the spinning drum speed as well as the core-sheath ratio are kept constant during production. The SMA FSY has been electrically heated using a customized instrument and the results are reported as the work done (potential energy) and output power (Watt) needed to lift the load (constant weight) from staticcondition. The actuation performances of the SMA FSY are compared with SMA wires actuation performance without sheath. The changes in spinning parameters show different actuation performance of SMA FSY, which is measured as the height to lift the load and the time taken for the SMA core to return to the pre-determined shape. The cohesion between the sheath and the wire may have contributed to the difference in the actuation performance based on the internal friction test.

6 illus, 9 ref

010474   Afrashteh S;Merati A A;Jeddi A A A (Textile Engineering Dep, Science and Research Branch, Islamic Azad Univ, Tehran, Iran, Email: afrashteh57@yahoo.com) : Geometrical parameters of yarn cross-section in plain woven fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2013, 38(2), 126-3.

To study the effect of yarn twist on the geometrical parameters of yarn in a plain woven fabric such as its cross-sectional shape, the samples with various twist levels of warp and weft yarns have been woven and the yarn cross-section parameters are measured using their images obtained by Projectina microscope. The image processing analyses show that the shape of yarn cross-section in the fabric is affected by the twist level. The statistical analysis shows that the increase in yarn twist factor (α_tex) from 0 to 4600 changes the yarn cross-section shape into a lens shape and then elliptical shape and finally circular-like shape. The major diameter of the elliptical shape of the yarn cross-section decreases as the yarn twist increases, while the minor diameter of the elliptical shape of yarn cross- section increases as the yarn twist increases. The results also show that the twist of one group of yarns (warp) affects the cross-sectional shape of other group of yarns (weft). The ellipticity ratio of the yarns (minor diameter divided by major diameter) increases from 0.35 to 0.86 as the yarn twist factor increases from 0 to 4600.

6 illus, 12 ref

008310   Yadav N;Arya N (Textile and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Home Science, C.C.S. Haryana Agricultural Univ, Hisar, Haryana, Email: nishasangwan@gmail.com) : Weaving, techniques for artistic punja durries of Haryana. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 216-9.

In Haryana, durrie making is undertaken in almost all the districts. The tradition of weaving durries is the exclusive preserve of women. A girl is taught to weave by older women of the household - her mother, grandmother, paternal aunt or sister, at a very young age. They continue practicing durrie weaving at home during their leisure time. It helps to generate income to some of them.

2 illus, 6 ref

008309   Tayyaba Fatma;Sharma S (Cloting and Textiles Dep, Banasthali Univ, Banasthali, Rajasthan, Email: rose.emaan@gmail.com ) : Designing of Burkha using linen fabric with animal print. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 130-4.

Burkha is an outer garment worn by women in Islamic tradition for the purpose of cloaking the entire body. The present study was conducted on the subjects who wear Burkha along with few objectives, fashion conscious wearer always demanding something new and innovative designer Burkha. The existing range of Burkha has wide variety but linen a skin friendly and comfortable fabric, has never been used for making Burkha and animal prints which has been a taboo for Muslim clothing. Therefore, this project is an effort to innovate designer Burkha with animal print carefully without hearting the Islamic religious norms. The designs were proposed, assessed, made into miniature samples, reassessed and finally made into prototype and then evaluated by the potent customers who showed inclination for buying such Burkhas.

7 illus, 9 ref

008308   Sinha A S K (Chemical Technology Dep, S.L.I.E.T. Longowal, Sangrur, Email: akhouri_sanjay@yahoo.com) : Bio-pulping process for use of rice straw as fibrous raw material in pulp and paper industry. J Envir Res Dev 2011, 6(2), 239-44.

The pulp and paper industry is facing increasing pressure in terms of environmental regulations, energy usage and profit margins; therefore, new or greatly modified technologies will be necessary to carry the industry through the 21" century. The innovations taking place in the industry can be classified as chemical and biological as well as combinations of the two. Asia produces over 300 million tons of rice straw which is nearly 90 per cent of the total world production. Rice straw has nearly 56 percent holo-cellulose, 17 percent lignin and 13 percent silica content. Experimental studies for bio-pulping of rice straw at lab level were done using Phanerochaete chrysosporium because it is the most studied white rot fungus and grows rapidly. The pulp yield was 52 percent with a Kappa number of 23.12 which is considered good for paper making. Bio-pulping techniques are environmentally friendly in comparison to conventional pulping methods. Bio-pulping yield obtained is higher than the conventional pulping methods. More refinement is required for accelerating the reaction rate and decrease of time consumption to make it widely acceptable as alternative pulping process as low energy consuming and eco-friendly.

6 tables, 12 ref

008307   Sharma S;Babel S (Textile and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Home Science, Maharana Pratap Agriculture and Technology Un, Udaipur, Rajasthan, Email: surbhisahrma10@gmail.com) : Skill development in rural women through value added jute products. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 76-8.

Natural golden fibre is strongest, cheap and ecofriendly in nature. Thus, an attempt was made to trained rural women in value added jute products so that they could start their own entrepreneurial unit. Training on value added jute products was imparted to 30 women of Griva Tehsil of village Badgoan from Udaipur district. The existing knowledge level of respondents regarding value added jute products was judged using interview schedule and after training the post-exposure knowledge level was judged using the same schedule. The result obtained from skill assessment of rural women was 100 per cent in training session. The feedback of the whole training was found to be very fruitful and had applicability for the future purpose.

3 tables, 1 ref

008306   Rajvanshi R;Srivastava M (Textile and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Home Science, Maharana Pratap Agriculture and Technology Un, Udaipur, Rajasthan) : Traditional Phad artisans of Rajasthan. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 185-8.

Indian paintings can be referred to as the mirror of India's fascinating history from the ancient times. In India, there is a great variety of folk and tribal art. Phad paintings belong to the state of Rajasthan in India. The present work is an outcome of the preliminary survey being conducted to get information about the Phad artisans at Udaipur (Shahpura, district of Bhilwara).

^iia15 tables, 7 ref

008305   Pazarlioglu N K;Akkaya A;Merih Sariisik A; Erkan G;Perrin Akcakoca Kumbasar E (Biochemistry Dep, Faculty of Science, Ege Univ, Bornova, Izmir, Turkey, Email: nurdan.pazarlioglu@ege.edu.tr) : Dyeing of wool fibers with natural fungal dye from Suillus luteus. Asian J Chem 2011, 23(6), 2600-4.

Suillus luteus is a pored, edible mushroom of the genus Suillus in the Suillaceae family in Boletales order. The wool fabrics were dyed with the ethanolic extract of S. luteus fruit bodies at different pH values with various mordants. The greatest colour yield was obtained at pH 3 without mordant. Highest K/S values were obtained at pH 5 and 6 mordanting with copper sulfate. However at pH 4, 3 and 2 the highest K/S values were obtained mordanting with tin(II) chloride. Although, all dyed samples have good washing and crocking fastness, poor washing fastness colour change values were observed at pH 2 and 3 without mordanting.

7 illus, 3 tables, 25 ref

008304   Luniya V;Agarwal S (Clothing and Textile Dep, Jai Narain Vyas Univ, Jodhpur, Rajasthan, Email: lvik2000@yahoo.com) : Traditional Kota Doria saris- An innovative allure. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 10-3.

In a continuous changing world of textiles with ever growing challenges and competitive environment, innovation in traditional weaving crafts has become essential for their long lasting existence. Kota Doria weavers are also experimenting with yarns, motifs, and colours to meet the contemporary demands of consumers without changing Khat -a recognizing characteristic of this craft that gives a unique squared check pattern to the textile for which it is famous and is not found in any other textile. Innovations in this craft had transformed the textile from plain turban cloth to saris designed in varied range of motifs with additional richness incorporated by use of zari. Cotton yarns in both warp and weft directions are replaced by silk and zari, vibrant rich colours along with naturalistic and stylized motifs has given a new variety to the craft making the fabric more appealing. Amenability of creators according to market needs is enriching this craft heritage.

6 illus, 6 ref

008303   Koka V;Srivastava M (Textiles and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Home Science, Maharana Pratap Agriculture and Technology Un, Udaipur, Rajasthan) : Occupational health hazards of textile workers of Pali district. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 152-5.

Study was undertaken to study the occupational health hazards faced by the workers in textile processing units of Pali district. A sample of 120 workers employed in 40 textile processing units in different sections were selected and interviewed. The result highlighted the fact that detrimental work practices in the textile units without the use of protective clothing resulted in various types of physical, chemical, ergonomically, mechanical, biological and psychological hazards among textile workers.

8 tables, 6 ref

008302   Kaur H;Kola N (NO, Faculty of Fashion Designing, ALT Training College, Khokhara, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, Email: dollymehra18@gmail.com) : Eco-friendly finishing and dyeing of jute with direct and mordant dye method. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 19-22.

Present study deals with jute fabric, which is considered to be the next eco-friendly fabric of the future. The only drawback of jute is that it is a harsh feel fabric because of which it is many times not able to compete with other natural fabrics. In this study, jute was dyed with turmeric and majeetha using two different application methods direct and mordent. The samples were evaluated for colour fastness. Micro-amino silicon was used in one step dyeing-finishing with turmeric and majeetha dyes. The samples were evaluated for colour fastness. Yellow colour was obtained by turmeric and bisque with majeetha. Best results were obtained by majeetha by using both the dyeing methods; direct and mordant. Turmeric showed poor results in washing fastness and wet ironing fastness. Dyeing-finishing of jute with micro-amino silicon and dyeing with turmeric and majeetha have also resulted in appreciable results. Jute was dyed finished in bright yellow colour with a complex of micro-amino silicon and turmeric extract was dyed in bisque colour with a complex of micro-amino silicone and majeetha. Appreciable colour fastness results were also obtained. Thus, results are improving smoothness of jute along with saving of important recourses like time, labour and energy.

2 illus, 5 tables, 3 ref

008301   Juneja S;Pathriya S (Clothing and Textiles Dep, Banasthali Vidyapith, Banasthali, Rajasthan, Email: shalinijuneja@ymail.com) : Development of eco-friendly finish on cotton fabric using herbs. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 172-5.

Present subject was done to develop eco-friendly antimicrobial finishes using herbs. It mainly aimed at studying the effect of herbal extracts on cotton fabric. In this study, three herbs viz., neem, tulsi and clove were used for finishing of cotton fabric. Methanolic extracts of neem, tulsi and clove herbs were examined using standard antimicrobial disk diffusion method. Extracts were tested against gram-negative bacteria (Escherisia coli). The results related to these herbs showed that the clove and the neem extracts showed good anti bacterial property on cotton fabric. Citric acid treatment was used for post treatment of the herbs treated fabric. Among these, clove extract showed excellent antibacterial property on cotton fabric and tulsi extracts showed minimum antibacterial property.

4 illus, 7 ref

008300   Bhavani K;Sharada Devi A (NO, Krishi Vigyan Kendra, Bidar, Karnataka) : Evaluation of colour fastness and colour strength properties of naturally dyed banana corpet yarns. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 109-12.

One can get colouring matter from almost all vegetable matter. However, only a few of these sources yield colourants which can be extracted and work out to be commercially viable. Colour fastness property of these dyed yarns need to be tested, and it refers to the resistance of the colour of textiles to different agencies such as washing, sunlight and rubbibg. Annatto seeds, flame of forest flowers and dhawadi flowers were used for dyeing banana carpet yarns and after treatment was done with pomegranate fruit skin and later studied for colour fastness and colour strength properties. The colour fastness of naturally dyed banana yarns was noticed to be from fair to excellent. Among the four colours dyed on banana yarns, maximum colour difference was noticed in abraded maroon sample and minimum in abraded dark yellow sample. The colour strength after rubbing came down in all the naturally dyed banana yarns.

5 ref

008299   Bhavani K (NO, Krishi Vigyan Kendra, Bidar, Karnataka) : Comparitive study on the effect of starches on crease recovery and stiffness property of bleached cotton material. Asian J Home Sci 2012, 7(1), 148-51.

Stiffening agents are applied on cloth in order to build up the apparent weight, impart thickness to improve luster and also to prevent the fabric from soiling quickly. An attempt has been made to study the effect of starches on the crease recovery and stiffness property of bleached cotton material using cold and hot method of starching. The results of the study showed that, fabric became stiffer with increased starch concentration and hence there was reduction in crease recovery angle. The stiffness values were higher in warp direction when compared with weft direction for all starched fabric samples. There was a significant difference in fabric stiffness with increasing starch concentration and also with different starches in both warp and weft way.

2 illus, 4 tables, 3 ref

008298   Bajwa R K;Bismin Singh (Clothing and Textiles Dep, Government Home Science College, Chandigarh, Email: ramanbajwa2009@gmail.com) : In style with ethical fashion. J Envir Res Dev 2012, 6(3), 514-20.

The focus of this paper is to study the consumers purchasing pattern of eco friendly garments and their satisfaction with the usage of such apparel. The paper further explores the problems faced by the users of eco friendly clothing and their suggestions regarding the improvement of eco friendly garments.

^ssc6 illus, 11 ref