021388   Kumaravelu R;Poornima S;Kasthuri N (Research and Development, Vivekha Charitable Trust, Kanchipuram-631 502, Email: rkumsind@gmail.com) : Woven design data transmission using TTL logic for 128 hooks electronic cardless jacquard. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2015, 40(1), 100-4.

A new electronic cardless handloom weaving apparatus which is an alternate to mechanical jacquard has been developed in order to improve the productivity and to reduce the occupational stress of the handloom weaver. The main objective of this development is to retain the features of the handloom with comfortable weaving and reduced laborious work. This development is based on embedded system to control the warp yarn vertical movement. The conventional punched cards are replaced by multimedia memory card file system. The shedding effect is programmatically controlled through miniature stepper motors. The new apparatus is found to be highly versatile for introducing variety of weaving patterns.

^ssc4 illus, 2 tables, 3 ref

021387   Jhanji Y;Gupta D;Kothari V K (Fashion & Apparel Engineering Dep, The Technological Institute of Textiles & Sciences, Bhiwani-127 021, Email: deepti@textile.iitd.ernet.in) : Comfort properties of plated knitted fabrics with varying fibre type. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2015, 40(1), 11-18.

Study aims to investigate the effect of fibre type and yarn linear density on the thermal properties such as thermal resistance, thermal conductivity and thermal absorptivity along with air permeability and moisture vapor transmission rate of single jersey plated fabrics. Plated fabrics with nylon in the next to skin layer seem suitable choice for warm conditions as these fabrics would feel cooler on initial skin contact owing to high thermal absorptivity and are permeable to passage of air and moisture vapor. Fabrics knitted with yarns of high linear density seem unsuitable in warm conditions owing to higher value of thermal resistance and lower values of air permeability and moisture vapor transmission rate. Two way analysis of variance is conducted to test the significance of categorical variables, i.e. fibre type and yarn linear density on dependent variables. All the dependent variables except thermal resistance are found to be affected by the categorical variables at 95% confidence intervals.

3 illus, 3 tables, 19 ref

021386   Gupta D;Chaudhary H;Gupta C (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi-110 016, Email: deepti@textile.iitd.ernet.in) : Sericin based bioactive coating for polyester fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2015, 40(1), 70-80.

In this study, a process has been developed for durable coating of sericin on polyester. Pre modification of polyester with alkali (sodium hydroxide) has been carried out to incorporate polar entities on its inert surface. 10g/L of sericin with 30mL/L of glutaraldehyde, cured at 130°C for 2min has been optimized for its application on modified surface. Treated samples are tested for surface smoothness, moisture retention, wicking, antistat and antioxidant characteristics. Results show that polyester fabric surface becomes smoother as well as highly hydrophilic on application of sericin. Wicking properties are enhanced greatly and antisat property is improved along with the radical quenching property. These results can be used to prepare fabric having unique properties of enhanced smoothness, hygroscopicity, high wicking and radical quenching which make it suitable for applications in skin moisturizing, skin healing and anti-ageing. These results indicate that sericin can be used to develop a durable and bioactive finish on polyester for use in medical and sports garments.

8 illus, 6 tables, 30 ref

021385   Ghosh A;Guha T;Bhar R B (NO, Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, Berhampore-742 101, Email: anindya.textile@gmail.com) : Identification of handloom and powerloom fabrics using proximal support vector machines. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2015, 40(1), 87-93.

This study endeavors to recognize handloom and powerloom products by means of proximal support vector machine (PSVM) using the features extracted from gray level images of both fabrics. A k-fold cross validation technique has been applied to assess the accuracy. The robustness, speed of execution, proven accuracy coupled with simplicity in algorithm hold the PSVM as a foremost classifier to recognize handloom and powerloom fabrics.

6 illus, 1 tables, 13 ref

021384   El-Sayed A A;Salama M;Dorgham S M;Kantouch A (Textile Research Div, National Research Centre, Dokki, Giza, Egypt, Email: amratefelsayed@gmail.com) : Modification of viscose fabrics to impart permanent antimicrobial activity. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2015, 40(1), 25-30.

Viscose fabrics have been modified to enhance the attraction for nano metal oxides, namely aluminum oxide, zinc oxide or titanium (IV) oxide, to impart antimicrobial activity against Escherichia coli and Candida albicans. Viscose fabrics are pretreated with 3-bromoprpionic acid prior to loading with nano metal oxides. Optimization of the acid concentration is reported. The overall results show a unique ability to stop microorganisms growth on the viscose fabrics pretreated with 3-bromopropionic acid and after treatment with nano metal oxides. The ability of nano metal oxide treated viscose fabrics to reduce the microbial growth is found in the following order: zinc oxide <62> aluminum oxide <62> titanium (IV) oxide. The durability of antimicrobial activity has been tested after thirty wash cycles.

6 illus, 1 table, 35 ref

021383   Chaudhuri A;Majumdar P K (Jute and Fibre Technology Dep, Calcutta Univ, 35 Ballygunge Circular Road, Kolkata-700 019, Email: atin57@gmail.com) : Effect of blend composition on tensile properties of blended dref-III yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2015, 40(1), 36-42.

Blended Dref-III yarns have been prepared by using same stock of blended materials (polyester-viscose) both in core and sheath. Stress-strain curves of both fibre and yarn (100% polyester and viscose) have been used for the prediction of both ring and Dref-III spun blended yarn strength. Hamburger model using yarn stress-strain curves for blended ring-spun yarn has been found suitable to predict the tensile strength of blended Dref-III yarns for different core-sheath ratios separately. From this observation, an equation has also been derived to predict the strength of blended Dref-III yarn for all types of combinations of core and sheath components as well as blend composition.

3 illus, 7 tables, 2 ref

021382   Baffoun A;Hamdaoui M;Romdhani Z (Laboratory of Studies of Thermal and Energetic Systems, National School of Engineers of Monastir, Monastir Univ, Monastir 5019, Tunisia, Email: baffoun_ayda@yahoo.fr) : Use of glucose as an ecofriendly reducing sugar in the application of sulphur dyes - comparative study with traditional reducing agent. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2015, 40(1), 57-61.

Attempts have been made to replace the mostly used reducing agent (sodium sulphide), and the most effective reducing agent (sodium dithionite), with an environment- friendly reducing sugar (glucose). This comparison is based on the redox potential and pH used under different concentrations of reducing agent, caustic soda and sodium carbonate. The dyeing performance resulting from the reduction of the CI Leuco Sulphur dye Black 1 by each one of the studied reducing agents is appreciated by measuring the colour yield and by evaluating dyeing fastness. The obtained results show that glucose can offer an environmentally safe alternative to sodium dithionite and sodium sulphide as a reducing agent in sulphur dyeing processes.

5 illus, 1 table, 15 ref

021381   Almetwally A A;Mourad M M;Ali A H;Ramadan M A (Textile Research Div, National Research Center, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt, Email: saaa_2510@yahoo.com) : Comparison between physical properties of ring-spun yarn and compact yarns spun from different pneumatic compacting systems. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2015, 40(1), 43-50.

A comparative study pertaining to physical and mechanical properties of ring-spun yarn vis-a-vis compact yarns spun using three different compacting systems has been reported. Rieter (K-44), Toyota (RX-240) and Suessen (Fiomax) spinning machines have been used and the condensing process of the fibres in the yarn cross-section as per these compact spinning systems is accomplished pneumatically. Thus, a yarn of linear density 5.9 tex (100 Ne) is spun on the spinning systems using Egyptian cotton of the type Giza 86. One way Anova together with least significant difference are employed to feature the means of the properties of spun yarns and a significant difference among them is observed. According to the performed statistical analysis, there is a significant difference between ring - spun yarn properties and each of the pnuematic compact spun yarns. These compact-spun yarns are also found to differ significantly in terms of their physical and mechanical properties; however, they are all found superior to the ring-spun yarn.

3 illus, 4 tables, 27 ref

021380   Agarwal R;Garg N;Kashyap S R;Chauhan R P (Biotechnology Dep, Shobhit Univ, Meerut-250 110, Email: agarwal.rashi7@gmail.com) : Antibacterial finish of textile using papaya peels derived silver nanoparticles. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2015, 40(1), 105-7.

The present study is aimed at the extracellular synthesis of highly stable silver nanoparticles for the development of nanosafe textile using the extracts of yellow papaya peel. Fabric is treated with nanoparticles using dip and dry method to observe the effect of antibacterial activity. The synthesized nanoparticles are also characterized and quantified. Due to their potent antibacterial activity, papaya peels derived silver nanoparticles can be incorporated into fabrics and the manufacturers can make textiles free from spoilage by microorganisms.

^ssc4 illus, 16 ref

019406   Vishnoi A;Singh J (NO, Teerthanker Mahaveer Univ, Moradabad, Uttar Pradesh) : Assessing the acceptability of household textiles and apparels designed through foreign motifs. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 644-9.

Human beings have always had a profound passion for decoration. Throughout history, art has served as both a means of decoration and individual expression and also act as a vehicle for the expression or communication of emotions and ideas. It is perceived through the eyes, but appreciated by the spirit. Its sole purpose is to stimulate the feeling of joy and peace. Modern India has a steep orientation towards western culture and fashion. Though it is dominating few million Indian women, still many of them stay with Indian culture by choosing style variation in their dressing sense. The study was undertaken by the researcher in designing sarees by using African art motifs in Indian traditional costume and Chinese motifs for designing kurties and Japanese motifs for designing home furnishing and handicraft items. The objectives for this study were to collect various ancient images of African, Chinese and Japanese arts, retrieve the motifs, designed household textiles and apparels with selected motifs and to analyze the aesthetic appeal of designed household textiles and apparels. It was concluded from the study that these arts are a successful innovation with reference to motifs, placement of motifs and colour combination. Thus, we can reach the height of fashion even by keeping out feet on traditional ground.

10 illus, 8 tables, 21 ref

019405   Vedika;Grover E;Paul S (Textiles and Apparel Designing Dep, Ethelind School of Home Science, Sam Higginbottom Institute of Agricul, Technology and Sciences, Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh, Email: aryavedika@gmail.com) : Adaptation of Warli art for the development of blocks for printing of apparels. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 417-21.

India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Every region in India has its own style and pattern of art, which is generally known as folk art. Perhaps the best-known genre of Indian folk paintings is the Warli painting from Maharashtra state. Traditionally Warli paintings were done by hand which is tedious, time consuming and laborious process. But due course of time with easy availability of different styles of printing, these paintings can be brought down on cloth by using various printing techniques. Hence, in the present study an attempt was made to develop blocks of Warli paintings of Maharashtra for printing of apparels and handicraft items. Total thirty designs were developed with the help of computer software "Adobe Photoshop" and "Corel Draw", ten each for apparels including kurties, suits and sarees. All the developed designs were subjected to visual evaluation for selection of two best designs from each category by the panel of thirty judges. The selected designs were applied on apparels using block printing technique. The cost of each article was calculated on the basis of expenditure on raw materials, labour charges, finishing charges and profit margin. Among the apparel items, brick red and black colour printed kurti (K9), green and purple colour painted suit (D7) and purple colour printed saree (S6) were highly appreciated and accepted. However, all the other products were also appreciated. Selling price of apparel items was ranged between Rs. 492/- to Rs. 1163/-. The adaptation of Warli motifs on apparels using block printing has paved the way for the plethora of product diversification that could lead to a flourishing market.

3 illus, 4 tables, 5 ref

019404   Varsha Devi;Saini H K (Apparel and Textile Science Dep, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural Univ, Ludhiana, Punjab, Email: varshubarwa18@gmail.com) : Prevailing trends of silhouettes in western dresses. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 527-9.

For this study a total of 20 apparel stores were selected purposively and surveyed by the researchers to obtain the information regarding prevailing trends in silhouettes, fabrics, colours and embellishments, etc. for various western dresses. An interview schedule was prepared to study the prevailing trends of western dresses in the local market. The data regarding prevailing trends in western dresses indicated that A-line and balloon silhouettes were available in all the apparel stores. Western dresses in cotton blends and plain (without design) fabrics were available in all the twenty apparel stores. Black coloured western dresses in single and two colour combinations were available in the apparel stores.Yokes, tucks, gathers, pleats, darts were most preferred constructional features as embellishments, dresses with frills and ribbons were available in all the apparel stores.

2 illus, 7 tables, 2 ref

019403   Srivastava M;Sharma N (Textiles and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Home Science, Maharana Pratap Univ of Agriculture and Techn, Udaipur, Rajasthan, Email: meenuclt@yahoo.com ) : Changing trends in traditional mojari craft. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 555-60.

Rajasthan has a rich and long tradition of leather crafts. Each village had its families of leather workers. The juti, mojari or pagarkhi are leather shoes and slippers worn by both men and women of all communities (http://trade.indiamart.com). Mojari is a generic name for handcrafted ethnic footwear produced in India and Pakistan. Mojari is the staple footwear of rural Rajasthan. In Rajasthan there are about a hundred thousand households engaged in the production of this traditional hand stitched shoes made out of coarse vegetable -tanned leather, which are known locally as Mojari. The best varieties are found in Jaipur, Jodhpur, Barmer, Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Dausa. In Jaipur the embroidery on the Mojari is done on velvet while in Jodhpur on leather with proficient golden ornamentation speak of gorgeousness and high skill of artisans. The present paper highlights the changing trends in Mojaris craft in Rajasthan.

2 illus, 5 tables, 19 ref

019402   Singh A;Pant S (Home Science Dep, Banasthali Univ, Banasthali, Rajasthan, Email: anuradhasingh.singh604@gmail.com) : Effect of selected organic acids on degumming and properties of tassar silk. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 470-2.

Present study was conducted to find out the effect of organic acid on the degumming of oak tassar silk fabric. Degumming of tassar silk fabric was done with tartaric acid, oxalic acid and citric acid at different pH, and for different duration to find out most appropriate conditions for degumming. Selected physical properties of oak tassar silk fabric was evaluated. Tartaric acid was found to give the best result followed by oxalic acid and citric acid for degumming silk. Weight, thickness, per cent drape coefficient and strength of tassar silk fabric increased whereas stiffness of fabric decreased.

5 tables, 4 ref

019401   Singh A;Gahlot M (Clothing and Textiles Dep, College of Home Science, G.B. Pant Univ of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar, Udham Singh Nagar, Uttarakhand, Email: amrita.textile07@gmail.com) : Effect of chemical processing on physical properties of hemp (Cannabis sativa) fibres. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 550-4.

Chemical processing is essential for proper separation of individual bast fibres from fibre bundles. Hemp fibres were subjected to different scouring agents and their effect on tensile strength, elongation, fibre fineness and per cent fibre weight loss was studied. Alkalis were found effective in improvement of fineness but alkali scoured fibres exhibited less tensile strength in comparison to acid scoured fibres. Fibres of selected scouring method were bleached to improve their appearance, colour and softness. After each chemical processing, fibre fineness and whiteness value increased but tensile strength and elongation decreased gradually.

1 illus, 3 tables, 8 ref

019400   Sharma A;Singh A;Anjum S (Textiles and Clothing Dep, College of Home Science, Chandra Shekhar Azad Univ of Agriculture and, Kanpur, Uttar Pradesh) : Natural dye from traditional medicinal source: mulethi. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 546-9.

With the growing importance and popularity of concepts like green, eco-friendly, sustainability, etc. natural dyes seems to have become an obvious choice for enlightened producers and consumers of textiles. There is a great demand for natural dyed products in foreign countries as well as in India. Cotton fabric dyed with natural dyes in soft and subdued shades with traditional designs creates a fashion statement. In this view the present research work has been taken on standardization of dyeing process for cotton with natural dye extracted from mulethi (Glycyrrhiza glabra).

2 illus, 3 tables, 10 ref

019399   Phukon R (NO, Sibsagar Girls' College, Sivasagar, Assam, Email: rajashreephukan@yahoo.com) : Eco-friendly dye for cotton yarn. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 587-9.

Considering the growing importance of natural colourants all over the world, the study was undertaken with an aim to develop the dyeing conditions of the bark of Eugenia jambolana Lam.(black plum) dye on cotton yarn. The natural mordant used in the research work was Aluminium Potassium Sulphate (AlK (SO₄)₂) for better fixation of the dye. The dye was extracted by alkaline method and the extraction time was optimized from the optical density values. The pre-mordanting method was used for mordanting the yarn. Shades of different colours, ranging from yellow to brown were obtained from the dye on cotton yarn. Fastness grades rated for all the samples were found to be good. The dye was found to be an ideal source which could be adopted at commercial level.

5 tables, 5 ref

019398   Nayak L (Textile and Apparel Designing Dep, Orissa Univ of Agriculture and Technology, Bhubaneswar, Odisha, Email: licha.lopa@gmail.com) : Effects of bleaching on absorbency and strength of jute-cotton union furnishing fabrics. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 380-7.

Bleaching of jute-cotton union fabric has been carried out using different chemicals and methods. It was found that the Sample L bleached with sodium silicate and H₂O₂ sequentially at 85°C for one hour then at room temperature for another hour and the sample M bleached at RT with a sequential combination of chemicals produce acceptable level of whiteness and efficient to carry out the colouration process successfully and these processes are energy saving, economical and also minimize damage in fabric strength. The absorbency property of these samples was very satisfactory, hence, efficient to carry out the colouration process successfully besides, these processes are energy saving, economical and also minimize damage to fabric tearing and bursting strengths. Moreover, the increase in absorbency of these materials, particularly for sample M was at par with conventional kier-boiled and bleached sample N.Conventional bleaching process produces a pure white colour but there was substantial loss in fabric strength and weight.

4 illus, 5 tables, 20 ref

019397   Naik S D;Kulloli S D;Mariyappanavar S (Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, Agricultural Science Univ, Dharwad, Karnataka, Email: profshailajanaik@gmail.com) : Ginning, spinning, wet processing and fabrication: a means of value addition to organic kapas. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 436-41.

Organic cotton is grown without pesticides and insecticides and seeds are not genetically modified. India is still the largest producer of organic cotton in the world, accounting for two-third of the global organic cotton production. Textile in the form of fibre, yarn, fabric, garment and fashion accessory is of at most adorable substrate. It is but true that cotton as Kapas (cotton wool with seeds) has very little value as raw goods but the post harvest processes shall definitely fetch better (premium) price. Two varieties of cottons selected for the study were DHH - 11 and DHB - 915. The efficiency of ginning in conversion of Kapas into lint was 49 per cent and remaining 51 per cent was wastage. The efficiency of spinning was 64 per cent and wastage was 36 per cent. Thrash, handling during spinning, wastage during mechanical processing were the main causes for wastage. The quantity of yarn obtained from 10.66 Q of Kapas was 3.36 q almost 1/3 of the total weight; but the returns were 5.82 folds. The calculated profit from Kapas to finished cloth was 29.60 per cent.

7 illus, 8 tables, 4 ref

019396   Mahajan S (Apparel and Textile Science Dep, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural Univ, Ludhiana, Punjab, Email: surabhimahajanct@pau.edu) : Popularizing eco-friendly textiles in urban India. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 601-6.

Fashion is the prevailing mode of expression. Fashions change more quickly than the culture as a whole. The present paper aims to explore the ways and means to popularize eco-friendly textiles in India and making them as a way of life. It is based on a survey of four of the leading textile manufacturing units and responses of 200 customers selected from all zones of Ludhiana city in the year 2010. The results showed that while manufacturers have the constraint of cost and acceptability by the customers, more than two-third customers lacked awareness about eco-friendly or green clothing. They also suggested that the awareness about these clothing, their ready availability and affordable cost may make them popular among the common people. It is suggested that government should organize informative programmes to make the public aware about eco-friendly/green clothing and should provide liberal subsidies to units engaged in manufacturing them.

2 tables, 8 ref

019395   Kulloli S D;Sannapapamma K J (Textile and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Rural Home Science, Agricultural Sciences Univ, Dharwad, Karnataka, Email: sadhanadk@gmail.com) : Assessment of lac dyed eri silk and naturally coloured cotton fabrics. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 427-30.

Environmental awareness, hazards of chemical industries, dyes and increased health consciousness of consumers have paved way for environmental friendly inventions that include variety of fibres, dyes and chemicals. Natural colour cotton, organic cotton, natural dyes, enzymatic finishes, are few of them. An effort was made to weave eco-friendly fabrics using a combination of lac dyed Eri silk with naturally brown coloured cotton. Two fabrics viz., lac dyed pure Eri silk fabric (2/80s) and Eri (warp) x Naturally coloured cotton (weft) union fabrics formed the test sample. Results revealed that, pure Eri silk fabric exhibited greater tenacity, elongation percentage, lower drape co-efficient and colour strength compared to union fabric, whereas Eri x NCC union fabric showed higher values of fabric thickness, weft way bending length, weft way crease recovery angle and abrasion resistance, indicate the fabric to be stiffer and coarser. Hand spun, naturally coloured cotton yarn showed unequal distribution of slubs and snarls which gave novelty appearance and textural effect on handloom Khadi fabric. Thus, lac dyed Eri silk x NCC union fabric; a unique eco-friendly fabric was best suitable for designer's made-ups, shirts and dress materials.

1 illus, 4 tables, 10 ref

019394   Kaushik S (Home Science Dep, Teethanker Mahaveer Univ, Moradabad, Uttar Pradesh, Email: shiprakaushik14@gmail.com ) : Application of nanotechnology in textile. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 580-3.

Use of nanotechnology in the textile industry has increased rapidly due to its unique and valuable properties. If the criterion is to produce very minute particle size fibres and materials, the nano technology is the only way to achieve the same. The present paper highlights the applications of nanotechnology in textile industries, with an emphasis on improving various properties of textiles.

1 table, 21 ref

019393   Kaur M;Brar K (Apparel and Textile Science Dep, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural Univ, Ludhiana, Punjab, Email: 1234sidhu@gmail.com) : Prevalent market trends in Phulkari embroidered Kurtis. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 509-13.

The investigation was carried out to make phulkari embroidery more versatile for the contemporary trends in Kurtis and enhance its market potential. The prevailing market trends in Phulkari embroidered Kurtis studied through a market survey of twenty showrooms of Patiala selected through purposive sampling technique apprised the investigator regarding the availability of Phulkari embroidered ready-made (75.00%) and semi-stitched Kurtis (100.00%) and Kurti yardage (90.00%) in the market which lacked in the style factor of cultural fusion to which young girls are highly receptive. Cotton polyester was found to be most popular for hand embroidered semi-stitched and Kurti yardage (90.00%). Cool colours (100.00%) were most popular for embroidery threads in Phulkari embroidered Kurtis followed by neutral colours. Stiff and soft textures were available in all the retail outlets for Phulkari embroidered Kurtis. Even during these days 'pat' thread is most popularly used followed by twisted silk threads. A-Line silhouette in Phulkari embroidered Kurtis was available at 100.00 per cent retail outlets, followed by tubular silhouette (95.00%). All showrooms offered Kurtis embellished with binding and ribbons, whereas 75.00 per cent each retail outlets possessed Kurtis with mirror or pearl work and braids.

4 illus, 9 tables, 5 ref

019392   Gupta A;Brar K (Apparel and Textile Science Dep, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural Univ, Ludhiana, Punjab, Email: anchal214@gmail.com) : Designing a line of indo-western dresses using peacock motifs. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 561-7.

A line of Indo-western dresses on peacock theme was designed using twenty peacock motifs comprising of top ten motifs from each category, i.e. realistic and stylized motifs, adjudged best by a panel of ten judges. For designing Indo-western dresses, motif R₉ was most preferred (mean scores 4.80) by the judges followed by motif R₂₀ which obtained second rank with mean scores 4.40. Among the stylized motifs, S₂₀ motif was most preferred (mean scores 5.60) followed by motif S17 which obtained second rank with mean scores 5.50. Twenty innovative designs of Indo-western dresses were developed in Corel Draw X5 by using ten most preferred peacock motifs which were highly appreciated by the college-going girls.

4 illus, 1 table, 13 ref

019391   Duarah P;Satvinder Kaur (Textiles and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Home Science, Assam Agriculture Univ, Jorhat, Assam, Email: pomimaduarah@rediffmail.com) : Use of indigenous herbal medicine-purple lady/iron leaf (Telanthera ficoidea) as a natural dye source for dyeing of mulberry silk fabric. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 409-12.

Naturally occurring materials are non-toxic, biodegradable and non-carcinogenic. Environmental considerations are now becoming an additional important factor during the selection of consumer goods including textiles all over the world. So, interest in natural product is gaining importance throughout the world and people are becoming aware of the need for eco-friendly materials. For the research, mulberry silk fabric was dyed with purple lady (Telanthera ficoidea) and mordant selected were alum and tea. All the three mordanting method viz., pre, simultaneous and post mordanting method were used. The dye materials were collected and extracted from the leaves and stems of purple lady with method. The silk fabric samples were degummed, ironed and dyed. The O.D. value before and after dyeing were recorded. Purple lady (Telanthera ficoidea) natural dye could be used effectively for colouring of mulberry silk fabric.

1 illus, 1 table, 24 ref

019390   Amanpreet Kaur;Saggu H K (Apparel and Textile Science Dep, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural Univ, Ludhiana, Punjab, Email: amudhillon1@gmail.com) : Consumer acceptance of prepared one piece dresses inspired from grecian costume. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(2), 539-41.

For this study, a total of 30 respondents (college girls) were selected through random sampling technique. Consumer acceptance of the prepared one piece dresses was studied. The dresses were evaluated on the basis of drape, design, decorative features and overall appearance. Profit margin of the prepared dresses was also calculated. The data collected revealed that majority of the respondents preferred dress G5 on the basis of drape. Dress G15 was given first rank on the basis of design, decorative features and overall appearance. It was easy to earn 30 per cent profit on all the dresses and consumers found the quoted price as adequate.

1 illus, 6 tables, 12 ref

018389   Srivastava M;Rajvanshi R (Textiles and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Home Science, Maharana Pratap Univ of Agriculture and Techn, Udaipur, Rajasthan) : Developing colourways from Rajasthani miniature paintings using CAD technology. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(1), 169-78.

7 illus, 5 ref

018388   Kulloli S D;Naik S D (Textile and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Rural Home Science, Univ of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad Karnataka, Email: sadhanadk@gmail.com) : Designing eco-friendly fabrics from naturally colour linted cotton. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(1), 157-61.

Two genotypes of naturally brown coloured cotton yarns viz., Dharwad desi colour cotton - 1 (DDCC-1) and Dharwad brown hirsutum - 250 (DBH-250) were woven on handloom with white cotton and filature silks (Muga and Tasar) to produce user and ecological friendly fabrics. Japanese kawabata evaluation aystem assessed these union fabrics for their performance. The results revealed that union fabrics showed higher tensile, bending, shear, compressional and surface property values indicating the fabrics having low bending rigidity and fabric density, greater flexural rigidity, coarse and rough to handle than their corresponding control samples. Koshi (stiffness), numeri (smoothness), fukurami (fullness and softness) and sofutosa (softness) were the primary hand values of KES (FB) in turn assisted to rate the total hand value. The total hand value expressed that these union fabrics are most suitable (good to excellent) for women's winter thin dress and fairly suitable (fair to good) for women's winter suits. Thus, newly woven union fabrics being new and unique of its kind are not only suitable for dress material but also as furnishings. All along its length, the handspun DDCC-1 yarn showed unequal distribution of slubs and snarls which is an added advantage of fancy appearance and texture of handloom fabric. Therefore, it is a boon for cotton cultivators to grow colour cotton on commercial scale to sustain in both domestic and international market as well as support the handloom sector.

3 tables, 3 ref

018387   Deka B;Deka P;Borgohain R;Neog M (NO, Krishi Vigyan Kendra, Kalipani, Teok Assam, Email: dbinapani@ymail.com) : Exploration of plant derived natural dyes in Assam. Asian J Home Sci 2014, 9(1), 17-20.

Considering the importance of natural dyes, a survey to explore plant derived natural dyes was conducted during 2012-13 in different locations of Jorhat district of Assam. Altogether six sources of natural dyes viz., Tectona grandis (teak), Nyctanthes arbor-tristis (night-flowering jasmine), Lawsonia inermis (henna), Tagetes patula (marigold),Clitoria ternatea (aparajita), Curcuma longa (turmeric) and Phutuki (Melastoma malabathricum L) were explored. Alum (Potassium aluminium sulphate), Copper sulphate, vinegar and ammonia were used as mordants. Experimental results indicated that varieties of colours can be produced from a single plant depending on the types of mordant used. The treated fabrics showed excellent colour fastness properties. The treated samples did not exhibit any colour fading and maintained the original texture.Antibacterial activities of raw and the mordanted dye samples against both E. coli and S. aureus bacteria were examined. The antibacterial activity of dyed fabrics was ranked as copper sulphate <62> potassium aluminum sulphate <62> vinegar <62> without mordant against both S. aureus and E. coli. The technique of producing natural dyes from the aforementioned sources was percolated and popularized among the local self-help groups of Jorhat, Assam.

3 illus, 1 table, 14 ref

017398   Sunder A E;Nalankilli G;Palani Swamy N K (Textile Processing Dep, SSM Polytechnic College, Komarapalayam-638 183, Email: aedwinsunder69@gmail.com) : Multifunctional finishes on cotton textiles using combination of chitosan and polycarboxylic acids. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 418-24.

100% cotton fabric has been treated with suitable combinations of chitosan and polycarboxylic acids (PCAs) to impart multiple functional properties. It is found that irrespective of the type of PCA added, samples treated with all combinations of chitosan and PCAs exhibit very good protection against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus bacterial strains. Zone of bacterial inhibition ranges from 21mm to 25mm and 24mm to 27mm for these strains respectively. Addition of PCAs to chitosan helps to improve other functional properties, like crease recovery behavior, soil release property and flame retardency in addition to the antimicrobial property. Samples treated with the mixture of chitosan and PCAs show good thermal resistance with Class I flammability. Maleic acid with chitosan shows higher values of flame propagation time as compared to that of other PCAs combination with chitosan. Soil release property is also improved from grade 3 for parent sample to grade 5 for all combinations of PCAs + chitosan treated samples. The crease recovery angle of samples treated with chitosan and PCAs combination has increased upto 261° compared to 215° for parent sample. Loss of tensile strength and tearing strength is found to be lower in chitosan and PCAs combination samples than in resin treated samples. From the results, it is evident that all the combinations of PCAs and chitosan can impart multiple functional properties on cotton materials.

3 illus, 2 tables, 25 ref

017397   Su X;Gao W;Liu X;Xie C;Zhu Y (School of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan Univ, Lihu Road, 1800 Wuxi, China, Email: gaowd3@163.com) : Numerical analysis of the slub yarn breaking strength using finite element method. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 437-40.

Numerical analysis of the slub yarn breaking strength has been made by using the finite element method (FEM). The slub yarn has been considered as skeletal structures since the yarn longitudinal length is much larger than its horizontal cross-section. Then, the accuracy of the proposed FEM model in calculating the slub yarn breaking strength has been validated by comparing the calculated results with the experimental data. This model can be used to calculate the slub yarn breaking strength normally and provides a theoretical support for product design.

2 illus, 2 tables, 13 ref

017396   Siddiqui Q;Yu C (College of Textiles, Donghua Univ, 2999 North Renmin Road, Shanghai 201620, China, Email: yucw@dhu.edu.cn) : Drafting force measurement and its relation with break draft and short term sliver irregularity. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 358-63.

The interaction between dynamic drafting force and its variability with break draft and short term irregularity of carded cotton sliver has been discussed. Drafting force data have been collected from online draftometer, installed on break draft zone of cotton drawing frame. The results indicate that the dynamic drafting force initially increases with the increase in break draft up to a certain point, followed by attaining peak region with some fluctuation in drafting force. After reaching the maximum point, drafting force gradually decreases with any further increase in break draft. The CV % of drafting force and short term sliver irregularity show the same trend with each other and oppositely to drafting force. Study on drafting force is not only applicable in optimization of break draft, but also the variability of drafting force provides better understanding of the dynamic behavior of the flowing fibre bundles and its impact on short term sliver irregularity.

4 illus, 1 table, 21 ref

017395   Sarkar S;Kothari V K (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi-110 016, Email: iitkothari@gmail.com) : Cooling garments. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 450-8.

Thermal discomfort is one the major challenges during work in hot and/or humid environments like mines, foundries and arid/desert regions. Heat and moisture management is the key to prevent the workers from heat stress. Personnel protective garments alone are not sufficient to provide thermal neutrality. Auxiliary cooling garments are required to aid the process of human body cooling. This review consists of human thermoregulation, followed by different types of cooling garments, and their advantages and disadvantages.

^iia7 illus, 60 ref

017394   Pragati (Botany Dep, M.S. College, Saharanpur, Uttar Pradesh, Email: pragatishiwach@yahoo.com) : Extraction and isolation of textile valued dye from Caesalpinia sappan (Patang). Adv Pl Sci 2014, 27(2), 581-2.

Deals with the Extraction and Isolation of the dye from textile valued plant Caesalpinia sappan. The extraction and isolation of the dye was carried out by variety of solvents. From the study it seems clearly that dye has some water soluble portion as well as some organic soluble portion.

1 table, 5 ref

017393   Phebe K;Krishnaraj K;Chandrasekaran B (NO, Centre for Leather Apparel & Accessories Development CSIR-Central Lea, Adyar, Chennai-600 020, Email: kphebejohn@yahoo.co.in) : Evaluating performance characteristics of different fusible intertinings. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 380-5.

Attempt has been made to evaluate the performance characteristics of three different fusible interlinings used in apparel industries with sheep nappa leathers in terms of bending, softness, bond strength, shrinkage, tensile strength and double hole stitch tear strength. Of all aspects of performance investigated, it is found that among the three interlinings, the fusible interlining which is warp knitted with a combination of strong nylon yarn woven with the cotton yarn performs well as compared to the other two interlining materials. The results not only facilitate the basic understanding of the fusing behavior of interlining materials with nappa leathers but also are useful for apparel design and construction.

7 tables, 7 ref

017392   Nichal S S;Chawhan R G;Tayade S D;Ratnaparkhi R D (Agril. Botany Dep, Dr. PDKV, Akola) : Correlation between growth and yield attributing characters on yield of sunflower hybrids (Helianthus annuus L.). Ann Pl Physiol 2014, 28(1), 84-8.

^ssc3 tables, 13 ref

017391   Masteikaite V;Saceviciene V;Januleviciene D; Igembayeva G;Nurzhasarova M (Clothing and Polymer Products Technology Dep, Kaunas Univ of Technology, Lithuania, Email: vitalija.masteikaite@ktu.lt) : Drape analysis of fabrics used for outerwear. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 373-9.

Study has been aimed at analyzing the fabrics of different characteristics drapes, considering the specimen shape which is similar to the garment part construction. Three wool and wool blended fabrics suitable for outerwear have been chosen for the study. The bending rigidity of tested fabrics is determined using the bending meter which works on the cantilever principle. In order to examine the influence of clothes construction on the fabrics drape, the cape is chosen for this work. The specimen has the shape corresponding to the shape of a side part of a cape which can be flared during design until desirable degree has been reached. For prediction of fabric behaviour in a garment, the traces of horizontal projections of specimen's bottom view as well as specimen's front view are analyzed. The results show that geometrical fold characteristics depend not only on the structural and mechanical properties of fabrics but also on the clothes construction.

9 illus, 3 tables, 18 ref

017390   Manshahia M;Das A (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi-110 016, Email: apurba65@gmail.com) : High active sportswear - a critical review. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 441-9.

Fabrics used for active sportswear are specially constructed in terms of the geometry, packing density and structure of the constituent fibres in yarn as well as their construction in order to achieve the necessary dissipation of heat and moisture. Performance of player can be enhanced by specialised sportswear like compression athletic wear and other innovative products like biomimetic swimwear. Specialised products are continuously being innovated where usually performance, quality, design and not the price seem to be determining factor. This paper reports the functional requirement of high active sportswear, various aspects of sportswear comfort, their evaluation methods, effects of fibre parameters like shape and geometry, yarn constructional parameters, fabric structural parameters, finishes, performance enhancement and innovative material for sportswear.

^iia4 illus, 107 ref

017389   Lakshmanan A;Debnath S;Sengupta S (Mechanical Processing Div, ICAR-National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technolog, 12 Regent Park, Kolkata-700 040, Email: lammayappan@yahoo.co.in) : Effect of nano-polysiloxane based finishing on handle properties of jute blended fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 425-9.

Jute: polyester blended yarn has been used to develop union fabric with cotton yarn, which satisfy the desirable properties for the development of a winter garment. Due to presence of jute fibre, it deficits in surface softness. An attempt has made to apply nano-polysiloxane based finishing both in individual as well as in combination with other finishing chemicals on this fabric by conventional pad-dry-cure method in order to improve its handle property. Properties such as bending length, crease recovery angle, and surface morphology have been evaluated as per standard methods. Results show that the nano+micro-polysiloxane based finishing combination shows better improvement in the surface morphology, handle and recovery property of the fabric than other finishing combinations.

^ssc4 illus, 1 table, 17 ref

017388   Kilic M;Buyukbayraktar R B;Kilic G B;Aydin S; Eski N (Textile Engineering Dep, Dokuz Eylul Univ, Turkey, Email: musa.kilic@deu.edu.tr) : Comparing the packing densities of yarns spun by ring, compact and vortex spinning systems using image analysis method. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 351-7.

This study is aimed at determining the packing densities of yarns produced by different spinning systems to investigate the fibre distributions for each system. For this purpose, 100% Tencel LF yarns with 19.69 tex linear densities are produced on ring, compact and vortex spinning systems. Cross-sections have been made by hard sectioning method using a rotary microtome. Packing densities of yarns are calculated by image analysis method. Results show that the compact yarns have the highest packing densities while vortex yarns have the lowest. However, differences between the packing densities of ring and compact yarns are not found statistically significant. In this study, density values of yarns (D, g/cm^{3) are also measured by Uster Tester 5 to evaluate the relationship between the packing density and yarn density values. Results show that the packing density values are parallel to yarn density values.}

4 illus, 4 tables, 28 ref

017387   Kandhavadivu P;Rathinamoorthy R;Surjit R (Fashion Technology Dep, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004, Email: r.rathinamoorthy@gmail.com) : Thermoregulatory characteristics of bamboo / lyocell union fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 386-93.

Heat transfer properties of different woven fabric structures made from regenerated bamboo and lyocell yarns woven in different proportions have been studied. Five union fabrics have been produced using bamboo and lyocell yarns of 30s count in the proportion of 100:0, 75:25, 50:50, 25:75 and 0:100. Three types of woven structures, viz plain, 2/2 twill and 1/3 twill weaves are produced from each combination and then analyzed for their heat transfer properties. The thermal conductivity of the 100% bamboo woven fabric and the thermal insulation value of 100% lyocell woven fabric are found to be higher as compared to all other blends. The results are discussed with 95% significant level with multivariate ANOVA test results.

7 illus, 4 tables, 26 ref

017386   Jin L;Jiang G;Liu S (College of Textile & Clothing, Jiangnan Univ, Wuxi 214122, China, Email: liushuiping123@163.com) : Preparation of ultra-porous UPM/PHBV nanofibres using solvent-etching technology and drug-loading efficiency. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 430-3.

In this study, ultra-porous fibres have been produced by partly washing out poly(3-hydroxybutyrateco-3-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBV) from the heat-crosslinked electrospun unsaturated polyester macromonomers/poly(3-hydroxybutyrateco-3-hydroxyvalerate) (UPM/PHBV) fibrous composite using chloroform. Tetracycline hydrochloride has been used as the module drug to test the drug-loading efficiency of porous fibres. Field emission scanning electron microscope images show that the etched UPM/PHBV fibres have lost the original smooth surface. The result demonstrates that the PHBV is successfully washed by chloroform, but most of UPM is remained because of the heat-crosslinking. Furthermore, with the increase of PHBV ratio in composite fibres, the etched fibres show much rougher surface. The drug absorption behavior also varies with the different PHBV ratios.

4 illus, 2 tables, 10 ref

017385   Hussain U;Sarwar A;Shafqat A R;Muzaffar M; Iqbal M;Zahra N;Ahmad F;Hussain T (Yarn Manufacturing Dep, National Textile Univ, Faisalabad, Pakistan, Email: hussainuzairntu@gmail.com) : Effect of spinning variables on packing density of cotton yarn. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 434-6.

In this study, fibre distribution through the cross-sections of ring-spun yarns and their packing density values has been investigated to provide a better understanding of the internal structures of ring-spun yarns manufactured by changing different spinning variables. After the yarn manufacturing process, diameter, IPI index, uniformity index, single yarn strength, density and hairiness are tested and then evaluation of tests is done on the Minitab and Microsoft Excel. The impact of TPI, spindle speed, count, hairiness and diameter has been analyzed using yarn packing density as a response variable. The aim of present study is to produce a yarn with improved packing density so that the yarn properties could be predetermined. The study shows that the increase in yarn count, TPI and spindle speed increase the yarn packing density.

2 illus, 2 tables, 13 ref

017384   Han X;Yu Y;Wang Q;Fan X;Cui L;Wang P (Key Laboratory of Science and Technology of Eco-Textile, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan Univ, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214192, Email: qiang_wang@163.com ) : Anti-bacterial properties of lactoferrin immobilized wool fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 401-5.

New biological cross-linker, microbial transglutaminase (mTGase), has been used to catalyze the immobilization of lactoferrin onto the wool fabrics, and the antibacterial properties of immobilized wool on both Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria are studied. It is found that the minimal inhibitory concentration of lactoferrin against S. aureus and E. coli is 0.5mg/mL and 0.25mg/mL respectively. As compared to the control sample, the amount of lactoferrin adhered onto the wool fabric improves from 4.87 mg.(g fabric)^{-1 to 12.96 mg.(g fabric)-1, indicating that the crosslinking reaction initiated by mTGase can increase the amount of lactoferrin fixed onto wool fabric obviously. The ratios of bacteriostasis to S.aureus and E.coli of wool fabrics immobilized with lactoferrin are bound to be 57.95% and 69.96% respectively, showing good antibacterial property.}

4 illus, 1 table, 14 ref

017383   Haggag K;El-Molla M M;Mahmoued Z M (Textile Research Div, National Research Centre, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt, Email: melmolla@yahoo.com) : Dyeing of cotton fabrics using reactive dyes by microwave irradiation technique. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 406-10.

Dyeing of cotton fabrics with reactive dyes using exhaustion method has been done using microwave irradiation technique. Different parameters such as dye concentration, alkali concentration, salt concentration, power of microwave used and liquor ratio have been studied and the results are compared with conventional technique. It is observed that the microwave technique saves 90 min in the dyeing time 75% in the salt used and 20% in alkali used, indicating the saving in time, energy and money. The overall fastness properties to rubbing, washing, light and perspiration for the dyed samples are ranging from very good to excellent.

2 tables, 15 ref

017382   Gupta D;Agrawal A;Rangi A (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, Hauz Khas, Delhi-110 016, Email: deepti@textile.iitd.ernet.in) : Extraction and characterization of silk sericin. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 364-72.

Study compares the quality and quantity of sericin obtained from four sources, namely mulberry silk cocoons, silk flats, reeling silk waste and woven silk fabric. Sericin has been extracted using the conventional HTHP machine as well as IR heating machine. Results show that among the four sources, the maximum yield of sericin (28%) is obtained from silk fabric followed by 25% sericin obtained from silk flats. IR machine extraction gives p <126> 13 times higher yield of sericin as compared to that obtained by HTHP at 100°C for 60 min. Sample obtained from IR extraction is also compared with the standard sample in terms of its physical properties, morphological structure, protein quality, protein structure, molecular weight and thermal behaviour using various analytical methods. The study proposes a protocol for assessing the quality of sericin protein. Since the source as well as the method of extraction can affect the properties of sericin, this protocol can be used to assess and determine the quality parameters of various sericin samples.

5 illus, 2 tables, 36 ref

017381   Ghane M;Lari V Z (Textile Engineering Dep, Isfahan Univ of Technology, Isfahan, Iran, Email: m-ghane@cc.iut.ac.ir) : Estimating the deflection of weft yarn in plain woven fabric using yarn pull out test. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 394-400.

Simple and practical model has been proposed to calculate the deflection of weft in a plain woven fabric using yarn pull out test. In this modeling, the weft yarn is considered as an elastic beam, which is fixed supported at ends, and deflected at the middle by the normal load applied by the warp. The case of small deflection is adopted to calculate the maximum deflection of weft yarn and to study the shape and geometry of the bent weft. The normal load is estimated from pullout test. Bending rigidity of the weft yarn is calculated from the relation between the bending rigidities of fabric and thread. Five different weft densities have been studied. The shape of actual weft has been studied by microscopic photography from the lateral section of the fabric, and compared to the theoretical deflection curve of weft based on small deflection modeling. The results show that the actual and theoretical curves are reasonably close to each other. The maximum deflection of the weft yarn increases as the weft density (picks/cm) increases. This may be due to the increase in normal load in higher densities of the weft yarns. The results also show that the deviation of theoretical curve from the actual curve increases with the decrease in weft density.

5 illus, 4 tables, 19 ref

017380   Chakraborty J N;Madan P P S (NO, National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar-144 011, Email: chakrabortyjn@gmail.com ) : Imparting anti-shrink functionality to wool by individual and simultaneous application of keratinase and papain. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(4), 411-17.

In this study, a pure enzymatic process has been used to impart anti-shrink properties to wool using keratinase and papain applied individually and simultaneously. Both the enzymes have shown to reduce the shrinkage tendency when applied individually, but combined application results in minimum shrinkage. Along with the reduction in shrinkage tendency it is desired to keep the loss in tensile strength to a low level. It is found that the loss in tensile strength could be kept below 10%. The effect of enzyme treatment on other properties like dyeability, wash fastness, light fastness and moisture regain is also studied. SEM study shows that the maximum scale removal is obtained when both the enzymes are applied simultaneously. When the two enzymes are applied individually, papain shows higher efficacy in terms of scale removal than that with keratinase. Infrared spectrophotometric studies using FTIR show that there is no difference in the absorption bands observed in the IR spectra, thus indicating that the enzyme treated wool is not chemically altered, i.e. no new functional groups are introduced in the wool as a result of the enzyme treatment.

1 illus, 6 tables, 16 ref

016402   Zou Z (NO, Zhejiang Key Laboratory of Clean Dyeing and Finishing Technology, Shao, Shaoxing-312 000, Email: zouzhy@usx.edu.cn) : Effect of process variables on properties of viscose vortex coloured spun yarn. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(3), 296-302.

The vortex spinning machine has been used to develop coloured spun yarn which is commonly used in the yarn-dyed fabrics. Based on the Box and Behnkan Design, the regression analysis of response surface is used to study effects of process variables, namely nozzle pressure, yarn delivery speed and yarn count, on the properties of viscose vortex coloured spun yarn, such as yarn tenacity, elongation-at-break, evenness and diameter. The results show that different response variables are affected by different combinations of model terms. Yarn tenacity is significantly affected by yarn delivery speed, yarn count, and quadratic terms of nozzle pressure and yarn delivery speed. Yarn delivery speed has a nonlinear and marked effect on yarn elongation-at-break, while yarn count has a linear effect on yarn elongation-at-break. Yarn evenness is significantly influenced by nozzle pressure, yarn delivery speed and yarn count. There is interaction between yarn delivery speed and yarn count. Yarn hairiness H value is significantly affected by nozzle pressure and yarn delivery speed. Compared with yarn delivery speed, yarn count and nozzle pressure have a significant effect on yarn diameter.

5 illus, 6 tables, 16 ref

016401   Zhong Z;Wang Y;Wu J;Chen R;Ling L;Zhu R (NO, School of Textile, Tianjin Polytechnic Univ, Tianjin-300 387, Email: wangyuxinie@126.com) : Comprehensive quality evaluation of jutecell/cotton blended yarn based on principal component analysis. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2014, 39(3), 326-8.

In order to evaluate the comprehensive quality of jutecell/cotton (J/C) blended yarn more accurately and conveniently, six kinds of jutecell/cotton blended yarn with different blending ratios have been designed with linear density 20tex. The comprehensive quality indices of these six yarns have been assessed with principal component analysis including hairiness indices (1mm) and (2mm), yarn evenness, snick(-50%), slub(+50%), nep (+200%), breaking strength and breaking elongation. The rank, in terms of quality, of J/C yarns with different blending ratio is 80/20 <62> 100/0 <62> 40/60 <62> 60/40 <62> 20/80 <62> 0/100 whose syntheses scores are -1.67, -0.98, -0.77, -0.02, 0.76, 2.68 respectively. The blending ratio of 80/20 J/C yarns gets the highest rank in terms of quality which is due to the excellent characteristics of two kinds of fibre. The findings provide practical guidance for designing the blending ratio of jutecell/cotton blended yarn correctly.

^ssc3 tables, 6 ref