011972   Sengupta S;Ray P;Majumdar P K (NO, Natn Inst of Res on Jute and All Fibre Technol, 12 Regent Park, Kolkata-700 040) : Effect of dynamic loading on jute-based needle-punched nonwoven fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 389-95.

The effect of dynamic loading on jute and jute-polypropylene blended needle-punched nonwoven fabrics has been studied. It is observed that with the increase in cycles of dynamic loading, the thickness loss increases with diminishing rate up to a certain limit and thereafter it does not change. Thickness loss decreases with the increase in punch density, depth of needle penetration and area density up to a minimum value beyond which it increases. The recovery from compression increases with the increase in above parameters. As the proportion of polypropylene fibre increases in the blend with jute, the thickness loss as well as relaxation from compression increases. Chemically texturized jute fibre, fibre laying technique and hessian reinforcement have a great effect on thickness loss as well as recovery from compression due to dynamic loading.

9 tables, 7 ref

011971   Samanta A K;Singhee D;Basu G;Mahalanabis K K (NO, Inst of Jute Technol, 35 Ballygunge Circular Road, Kolkata-700 019, Email: ijt@cal2.vsnl.net.in) : Effect of selective pretreatments and subsequent mixed enzyme treatment on properties of jute-cotton union fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 451-67.

Jute-cotton (75:25) union furnishing fabric has been treated with varying dose of mixed enzyme (cellulase, xylanase and pectinase) system with or without selective pretreatments and the consequent changes in important textile-related properties of the fabric evaluated. For untreated jute-cotton union fabric, 4% (owf) mixed enzyme treatment at 55°C for 2 h using pH 4.8-5.0 is found to be optimum. Between cotton (warp) and jute (weft), enzyme action is found to be more pronounced in cotton than in jute. However, the degree of enzymatic hydrolysis and associated weight loss for jute are found to increase if the mixed enzyme treatment is done after selective pretreatments. 1% NaOH pretreatment at 30°C for 30 min offers some unique advantages, except browning of surface colour, when subsequently treated with 4% (owf) mixed enzyme. Steaming of wetted jute-cotton union fabric at 130°C for 5 min shows almost negligible weight loss and marginal or no strength loss, although the reduction in stiffness in jute is poor and inadequate. Conventional scouring followed by 2% H₂O₂ bleaching with stabilizer AWNI instead of sodium metasilicate makes the fabric most suited for subsequent 4% mixed enzyme treatment. The use of 5 steel balls in the rotating beaker of the launder-O-meter during the enzyme treatment is found to be very useful for the removal of surface fuzz. Changes in functional group pattern and chemical composition of jute have also been analyzed after the treatments. Scanning electron microscopic and X-ray crystallographic studies respectively reveal the changes in the surface morphological features and fine structure of differently treated jute component of jute-cotton union fabric. There is apparent increase or decrease in X-ray crystallinity due to associated mass loss from non-crystalline zone/crystalline interface for different pretreatments and subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis.

1 illus, 6 tables, 30 ref

011970   Sahin O;Kayacan O;Yazgan Bulgun E (NO, Dokuz Eylul Univ Engng Fac, Izmir, Turkey) : Smart textiles for soldier of the future. Def Sci J 2005, 55(2), 195-205.

Textile-based materials, equipped with nanotechnology and electronics, have a major role in the development of high-tech military uniforms and materials. Active intelligent textile systems, integrated to electronics, have the capacity of improving the combat soldiers performance by sensing, adopting themselves and responding to a situational combat need allowing the combat soldiers to continue their mission. Meantime, smart technologies aim to help soldiers do everything they need to do with a less number of equipment and a lighter load. In the study, recent developments on smart garments, especially designed for military usage owing to their electronic functions, and intelligent textile-based materials that can be used in battlefield, are introduced.

11 illus, 25 ref

011969   Rengasamy R S;Ishtiaque S M;Ghosh A (Dep of Text Technol, Indian Inst of Technol, New Delhi-110 016) : Prediction of spun yarn strength at different gauge lengths using Weibull distribution. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 283-9.

An attempt has been made for strength forecasting of different spun yarns at any gauge length from the knowledge of strength distribution at a given gauge length as well as the weakest-link scaling theorem. The shape and scale parameters of Weibull distribution have been determined. Yarns produced on each of the four major spinning systems (ring, rotor, air-jet and friction) have been tested for tenacity at a wide range of gauge lengths (0-500 mm). From the Weibull distribution parameters at 10, 50 and 500 mm gauge lengths and by using weakest-link scaling, the tenacity of yarns at other gauge lengths has been calculated. Then the results of theoretical model for yam strength have been compared with the experimental results. It is observed that the data of yarn tenacity are well fit to two-parameter Weibull distribution. The Weibull shape parameter diminishes as the gauge length decreases. None of the yarns strictly follow the classical weakest-link theory and there is a considerable change in failure mechanism for all the yarns as the gauge length is varied.

6 illus, 8 tables, 9 ref

011968   Ramasamy M;Kandasaamy P V (Dep of Text Technol, P S G Coll of Technol, Coimbatore-641 014) : Effect of cationization of cotton on it's dyeability. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 315-23.

Efficiency of (3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)trimethylammonium chloride and polyamino chlorohydrin quaternary ammonium compound for cationization of cotton has been studied. The influence of process conditions during cationization on the colour strength (K/S) and total dye utilization has also been studied. It is observed that the cationization increases the dye utilization by 30% with no change in colour fastness and reduces the environmental pollution to a great extent. Cationized cotton dyeing is found to consume only 40% steam and 50% time to that of normal dyeing. Cationization with (3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)trimethylammonium chloride is found to be a successful and commercially-viable process which ensures 17% saving in dyeing cost.

6 illus, 10 tables, 20 ref

011967   Palaniswamy N K;Peer Mohamed A (Dep of Text Technol, A C Coll of Technol, Anna University, Chennai-600 025) : Effect of single yarn twist, ply-to-singles twist ratio and tightness factor on spirality of single jersey cotton knitted fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 258-62.

Effect of single yarn twist, ply-to-singles twist ratio and tightness factor on spirality of single jersey cotton knitted fabrics has been studied. The results show that the single jersey fabrics knitted from two-ply yarn with 1/2 of single yarn twist do not show spirality, whereas the fabrics produced using two-ply yarn with 1/3 and 3/4 of single yarn twist show spirality in Z and S directions respectively and the magnitude of spirality increases on wet relaxation. As the cotton two-ply yarn with 1/2 of single twist does not snarl in water, it can be considered as a balanced two-ply yarn. As the tightness of the fabric construction increases, the spirality of the fabric decreases.

1 illus, 4 tables, 11 ref

011966   Omeroglu S;Becerir B (Dep of Text Engng Fac of Engng & Archit, Uludag Univ, Gorukle, Bursa, Turkey) : Comparison of colour values of plain cotton fabrics woven from ring- and compact-spun yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 402-6.

Colour values of plain woven cotton fabrics made from ring- and compact-spun warp and weft yarns have been compared. Ring and compact cotton yarns were spun from 100% combed cotton at different yarn counts; ring-spun yarns having slightly higher mass irregularities and much higher hairiness than the compact-spun yarns. Fabrics having the same constructional properties were woven under the controlled mill conditions and then dyed with C.I. Reactive Black 5 dye. Reflectance measurements were performed on the undyed and dyed fabrics and colour values (lightness, chroma and K/S) were obtained. It is observed that the colour values change with the change in yarn counts and differ in undyed and dyed fabrics. As the yarn counts increase, the lightness and chroma values increase but the K/S values decrease in dyed fabrics, while the results are opposite in undyed fabrics. The highest numerical differences are obtained between the chroma values of the fabrics. Microscopic photographs of the fabrics show that the hairiness decreases with the increase in yarn count. The yarn hairiness plays a very important role in light reflectances with regard to chroma values and fabrics woven from compact yarns appear lighter in colour because of the more regular structure of the compact-spun yarns.

4 illus, 2 tables, 6 ref

011965   Neckar B;Das D (Dep of Text Structs, Tech Univ of Liberec, Halkova 6, 46117 Liberec, Czech Republic) : Autocorrelation function of yarn unevenness. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 421-30.

A new method has been reported for the evaluation of yarn unevenness spectrogram of the Uster Tester 3. The process to establish the theoretical relation between the spectral analysis and the autocorrelation function of yarn unevenness is demonstrated with the help of a practical example. It is observed that the random process of mass variation along a yarn is more expressible as an infinite sum of harmonic functions (integral) having infinitesimal amplitudes as compared to when the random process is expressed simply as a sum of harmonic functions.

7 illus, 7 ref

011964   N Gokarneshan;Anbumani N;Subramaniam V (Dep of Text Technol, Kumaraguru Coll of Technol, Coimbatore-641 006) : Investigation on the minimum twist of cohesion of ring and compact spun yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 340-3.

An instrument has been designed to determine the minimum twist of cohesion in yarns. The mechanical twist tester (based on untwist - retwist principle) has been used for finding out the initial twist per inch in the yarn. The number of turns that must be removed to break the yarn has been observed using the designed instrument. As it is useful in deciding the twist factor to be given to yarns, tests have been carried out on various types of treated and untreated yarns. It is observed that the treated yarns give better cohesion than untreated ones. Comparative studies on ring and compact yarns show that the compact yarn gives better cohesion.

^ssc1 illus, 6 tables, 8 ref

011963   Mukhopadhyay A;Ghosh S (Dep of Text Technol, Natn Inst of Technol, Jalandhar-144 011) : Creep performance of short stretch bandage. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 331-4.

Study on creep behaviour of short stretch bandages indicates that the most suitable bandage material as regards better holding during use may not be suitable for repeated use and vice versa. Lower values of delayed extension and permanent set in fabric are desirable for better holding capacity and for its repeated use respectively. Material ranking as regards instantaneous extension, delayed extension, instantaneous recovery, delayed recovery and permanent set does not change much with the variation in load. Although constructional parameters of all leno weaved bandage materials have significant influence on the above characteristics, there is no standardization as regards the uses of material, constructional parameters of yarn and fabric sett. Further, the fabric of higher weight may not perform best as regards holding of fabric during use.

1 illus, 3 tables, 2 ref

011962   Meric B;Durmaz A (Dep of Text Engng Fac of Engng and Architecture, Uludag Univ, Bursa, Turkey) : Effect of thread structure and lubrication ratio on seam properties. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 273-7.

Influence of thread structure and lubrication ratios on sewing performance of polyester multifilament, staple and core-spun threads with 2%, 4% and 6% lubrication ratios has been studied. Three different twists (540 twists/m, 635 twists/m and 1060 twists/m) were applied to 100% polyester yarns to analyze the effect of twist. The multifilament polyester / yarns with 2 and 3 plies were used to study the effect of ply numbers. The effect on breaking elongation, coefficient of friction between thread and metal, and initial elasticity modulus has also been studied. The seam strength and seam slippage were measured to evaluate seams performance. It has been observed that the structure of threads affects the seam strength, whereas the lubrication ratio does not. The core-spun thread structure shows a great resistance against the seam opening.

5 illus, 3 tables, 12 ref

011961   Masteikaite V;Saceviciene V (Dep of Apparel and Polym Products Technol, Kaunas Univ of Technol, Kaunas, Lithuania) : Study on tensile properties of coated fabrics and laminates. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 267-72.

Influence of structural parameters of coated fabrics and laminates on the breaking force, elongation, tensile energy during their stretching in various directions and types of failure has been studied. It is observed that the tensile properties of coated fabrics and laminates depend not only on the structural characteristics of their base layer but also on polymer film and degree of its penetration into the base layer. The analysis of stress-strain curves and fabrics fracture shows three types of fabric distortion, namely instantaneous, continuous for sometime and breaking of fabrics into separate layers at different durations. The tensile direction for coated fabrics and laminates has considerable influence on tensile characteristics.

9 illus, 3 tables, 16 ref

011960   Marmarali A;Gorken S O (Dep of Text Engng, Ege Univ, Izmir, Turkey) : Dimensional and physical properties of 3-D fabrics produced on the flat knitting machines. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 371-6.

Dimensional and physical properties of 3-D fabrics produced using different loop lengths and yarn combinations of cotton and polyester on electronic flat knitting machines has been studied. It is observed that the yarn combination, tightness and washing treatment affect the fabric properties. In addition, while the tightness of fabric increases or when the samples are washed, the course spacing, wale spacing, weight and thickness of the fabric increase and the air permeability decreases.

4 illus, 2 tables, 12 ref

011959   Malik S K;Sushil Kumar (NO, The Technological Inst of Text & Sci, Bhiwani-127 021) : Simultaneous dyeing and finishing of cotton fabric using reactive dyes and citric acid. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 444-50.

Efficacy of concurrent dyeing and finishing of cotton fabric with reactive dyes and citric acid has been studied. Factors affecting the process, such as alkali concentration and catalysts, were examined in two different process routes, i.e. simultaneous alkali addition and after development with alkali, for two dyes concentrations. Control samples were prepared by conventional two-step method. Evaluation of the simultaneously dyed and finished (SDF) fabrics was made with respect to colour strength (K/S), crease recovery angle (CRA), tensile strength and fastness properties, and the findings were compared with control samples. It is observed that the SDF fabric gives better K/S, CRA, tensile strength as well as fastness properties as compared to control samples; K/S and CRA increase with the increase in alkali concentration, whereas tensile strength decreases. Catalyst sodium hydrosulphite is found to give better overall results than sodium dihydrogen phosphate in case of SDF method as well as in control samples.

8 illus, 5 tables, 12 ref

011958   Liao S K (Dep of Fiber and Composite Mater, Feng Chia Univ, Taichung-40724, Taiwan) : Dyeing of microdenier polyester fabric in supercritical carbon dioxide. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 324-30.

Supercritical fluid dyeing technology has been used to dye microdenier polyethylene terephthalate fibres at elevated pressure and temperature simultaneously. It is observed that the dye speck disappears when pressure increases beyond 200 bar and dye uptake increases when pressure increases above 250 bar. Temperatures above 120°øC are found to be suitable for the dyeing of polyester fabrics. As the pressure releases step by step, a deeper shade is obtained because of the incremental mixing of the fluid, dyestuff and substrate. Disperse Red 60, which own anthraquinonid structure, could be dissolved more easily in supercritical fluid system. Reduction cleaning is not required and the fastness properties of dyed samples still meet commercial requirements. The results also show that the dye uptake could be raised with solvents such as dimethyl formamide and dimethyl sulfoxide in combination with dyestuffs. DSC and X-ray analyses also indicate no obvious damage when polyester fabrics are dyed at 250 bar pressure and 120°øC temperature for l0 min in supercritical fluid carbon dioxide.

9 illus, 4 tables, 21 ref

011957   Kothari V K;Bal K (Dep of Text Technol, Indian Inst of Technol, New Delhi-110 016) : Development of an instrument to study thermal resistance of fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 357-62.

An instrument has been developed to measure thermal resistance of fabrics under steady state condition using guarded hot plate method. This instrument can be used to test a given fabric in absolute method as well as comparator method under convective or non-convective measurement conditions. It is observed that the instrument gives repeatable results up to two decimal places of thermal resistance value. Effect of change in ambient temperature and test plate temperature has also been studied and it is found that there is no significant change in measured thermal resistance of the fabric within the range of room temperature and test plate temperature used. The study on the effect of wind speed on the thermal resistance of woven fabrics shows that the thermal resistance reduces with the increase in wind speed.

4 illus, 4 tables, 14 ref

011956   Indu Shekar R;Kamal Kumar;Kotresh T M (Text Div, Def Mater and Stores Res & Dev Establ, Kanpur-208 013) : Development of closely woven breathable linen fabric for water storage applications. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 335-9.

Dry-spun linen yarn was used to develop linen canvas water holding bags. Four varieties of linen -based canvas fabrics were developed using fabric engineering concept in different constructional parameters and weaves. It was observed that the fabric woven in oxford weave with twist level varying from 16 turns/dm to 18 turns/dm exhibited superior performance in terms of water proofness, water vapour permeability and water retaining capability. The study also showed the importance of fabric engineering concept to achieve optimum level of functional requirements.

1 illus, 4 tables, 5 ref

011955   Gupta K K;Kothari V K (Dep of Text Technol, Indian Inst of Technol, New Delhi-110 016) : Development of an instrument to study shrinkage properties of air-jet textured yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 278-82.

Instrument has been fabricated to study the shrinkage behaviour of yarns. The effect of various process parameters, namely speed, overfeed and air pressure, on the shrinkage behaviour of air-jet textured polyester yarns has been investigated. Samples were prepared using factorial design for three variables and then tested for shrinkage, bulk and instability. Three response surface equations were calculated for shrinkage, bulk and instability in terms of process parameters. The results show that the shrinkage value decreases with the increase in overfeed, air pressure and speed. The use of water during the air-jet texturing process is found to increase the shrinkage in the resultant air-jet textured yarns.

4 illus, 3 tables, 23 ref

011954   Grover E;Sharma A;Paul S (Dep of Clothing and Texts, Coll of Hom Sci and Women's Dev Allahabad Agric Institute- Deemed Univ, Allahabad-211 007, Email: groverektal@rediffmail.com) : Dyeing silk with Jatropha flowers. Nat Prod Radiance 2005, 4(5), 391-5.

In recent years research in the file of textiles is focused on the sources of natural dyes. The dye yielding potential of flowers of Jatropha integrimma Jacq. was evaluated and results are presented for the first time on this plant. The colour shades, mordant wise colour change and fastness to washing, rubbing and perspiration were studied. The results revealed that the dye extracted from these flowers give good shades with satisfactory fastness to light, washing, crocking and perspiration on silk.

1 illus, 5 table, 6 ref

011953   Giri Devi V R;Sivabalakrishnan A;Raghunathan K (Dep of Text Technol, A C Coll of Technol, Anna University, Chennai-600 025) : Effect of lay-up angle on mechanical properties of composites based on rib knit jute performs. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 263-6.

Mechanical properties of knitted jute reinforced composites with different stacking sequences have been studied. Flat rib knitted preforms have been produced in manual flat bed knitting machine followed by composite laminate preparation using simple hand lay-up technique. It is observed that the mechanical properties are dependent upon the stacking sequence. The improvement in course-wise mechanical properties of the laminates has been observed with [0°/±45°/0<144>< F255>] and [0°/90°/90°/0<14 4>] lay-up sequences compared to [0°] lay-up sequence which shows improvement in properties in wale-wise direction.

6 illus, 12 ref

011952   Eren R;Aydemir A (Dep of Text Engng Fac of Engng and Architecture, Univ of Uludag, Gorukle Campus, Gorukle 16059, Bursa, Turkey, Email: recep@uludag.edu.tr) : Kinematic design method for six-bar linkage sley drive mechanisms in weaving. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 243-51.

A kinematic design method has been developed for calculating the link lengths of a six-bar linkage sley drive mechanism satisfying the required sley motion. Initially, a six-bar mechanism is divided into a crank rocker mechanism and a double rocker mechanism and then the equations are introduced for the kinematic design and analysis. The effect of mechanism parameters on sley motion is also investigated. It is observed that the Δφ', which is a freely chosen design parameter of the double rocker mechanism, has the most significant effect on sley motion and that the effect of crank rocker mechanism on sley motion is also significant. Other mechanism parameters have no significant effect on sley motion. It is also observed in the design trials that the practically applicable link lengths can be obtained while the sley motion requirements are being satisfied.

11 illus, 1 tables, 16 ref

011951   EI-Gendy E H;EI-Shanshoury I A (Natn Cent for Radiat Res and Technol, Atom Energy Auth, Nasr City, Cairo 11731, Egypt) : Factors affecting radiation grafting of N-vinylpyrrolidone onto nylon-6 fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 437-43.

Effect of monomer concentration, exposure time, dose rate fabric-to-liquor ratio and irradiation temperature on the kinetic parameters of grafting N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP) onto nylon-6 fabric has been studied. Induction period is observed before the start of grafting process, especially at low dose rates and low NVP concentrations. Electron spin resonance study indicates that the oxygen still remaining in the grafting solution is possibly responsible for the existence of induction period via peroxide formation with free radicals. The order of the grafting process is found to decrease linearly with the increase in dose rate at 0.766 per increase in dose rate by 1 Gy/s. It decreases from a second order to a first order kinetics as the dose rate increases from 0.37 Gy/s to 1.81 Gy/s. The grafting rate constant increases with the increase in dose rate to the power of 2.9. The increase in fabric-to-liquor ratio from 1:7.5 to 1:15 increases the reaction order and decreases the grafting rate constant. The increase in the grafting temperature decreases the grafting rate and rate constant. The calculated activation energy 23.6 kJ/mole is attributed to the homopolymerization of NVP and the existence of unidentified transfer process.

11 illus, 1 table, 21 ref

011950   Das D;Neckar B (Dep of Text Structs Text Fac, Tech Univ of Liberec, Halkova 6, Liberec 1 461 17, Czech Republic) : Yarn strength behaviour at different gauge lengths. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 414-20.

A theoretical model has been developed for predicting yarn strength at different gauge lengths as a summation of two mutually independent stationary, ergodic, Markovian and Gaussian stochastic processes and then experimentally verified with different cotton yarns produced from different spinning technologies. A new methodology to measure yarn strength at a gauge length longer than that of the longest fibre in yarn has been devised and special data evaluation techniques developed. With this, it is possible to obtain a new characterization of yarn strength as well as to predict actual yarn strength behaviour at different gauge lengths. It is experimentally observed that the strengths of neighbouring short sections along a yarn are correlated and this correlation is different in different yams. Depending on the degree of this correlation, the empirical equations relating yarn strength and gauge length are found to be different in different yarns.

6 illus, 2 tables, 17 ref

011949   Chakraborty J N;Pal R;Megha P R (NO, Natn Inst of Technol, Jalandhar-144 011) : Garment dyeing. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(4), 468-76.

Garments are either prepared directly from processed fabric or the grey fabric is converted into garment followed by processing. Out of these two, the latter has gained undue importance to tackle present day scenario more effectively. The paper reviews the reasons behind this new challenge as well as other technical aspects related to dyeing of garments.

^iia80 ref

011948   Bhattacharjee D;Kothari V K (Dep of Text Technol, Indian Inst of Technol, New Delhi-110 016) : Theoretical model to predict the thermal resistance of plain woven fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2005, 30(3), 252-7.

A single cell woven fabric model has been developed to predict the thermal resistance in a non-convective environment. The values from the model have been compared with those obtained from Alambeta in which the fabric is confined between two plates at a pressure of 200 Pa, thus having the negligible natural convection and no forced convection. The model gives good correlation with the experimental values.

8 illus, 2 tables, 13 ref

010949   Vigneswaran C;Vijayalakshmi D (Fac of Fashion Technol Dep of Text Technol, PSG Coll of Technol, Coimbatore-641 004) : Bio-technique in garment processing to achieve eco-standards through eco auditing. Man Made Text India 2005, 48(10), 372-7.

Germany and the EU are two of India's largest markets for garment and textiles. This countries follows certain rules like eco-labels and inspection like banned dyes used, free formaldehyde goods etc. to ensure this eco standards, eco-auditing of chemicals, dyes and sub chemicals are essential. Eco-audit is the first and foremost step to be initiated to achieve the eco-standards. Eco-audit helps to review the products, services and operations in the industry continuously. The environment has become a priority throughout the textile industry particularly for textile wet processing industries.

4 illus, 5 tables, 14 ref

010948   Roy K;Garg N (Dep of Text Engng, GZS Coll of Engng & Technol, Bathinda-151 001) : Quality cost and its application in garment manufacturing. Man Made Text India 2005, 48(10), 382-5.

Quality Cost system is an extremely vital tool for quality management in a garment manufacturing unit since it establishes a systematic approach to pinpoint the failures in quality in monetary terms and, therefore, suitable corrective measures can be adopted to reduce failures and total cost. Obviously, enhancements in quality and customer satisfaction are the outcome besides, the accurate measurement of the efficacy of the Quality Control Department. A study in a small unit in garment manufacturing sector consolidates the utility of this system.

2 illus, 1 table, 4 ref

010947   Roy A N;Roy P (NO, Natn Inst of Res on Jute and All Fibre Technol ICAR, 12 Regent Part, Kolkata-700 040) : Physical properties of jute-viscose blended needle punched nonwoven Part I: Bursting strength and air permeabililty. Man Made Text India 2005, 48(10), 386-90.

Objective behind the study was to find out the changes in bursting strength and air permeability of needle punched jute-viscose blended nonwoven fabric with changes in variables like fabric weight, punch density, depth of penetration and jute-viscose blend composition. Statistical experimental designing technique has been applied to change all the variables simultaneously and also to reduce the volume of experimental samples. Bursting strength of fabric increases with the increase in fabric weight, punch density and depth of needle penetration but beyond some optimum punch density and depth of needle penetration, bursting strength of fabric shows a declining trend. With the increase in fabric weight, punch density and depth of penetration air permeability of needle punched nonwoven fabric is frist reduced due to better consolidation of fibres in the fabric and then show an upward trend due to channel or near hole formation in the fabric. Blending of viscose fibre with jute during the manufacature of needle punched nonwoven fabric on one hand increases fabric bursting strength, on the other reduces fabric air permeability. From the manufacturers point of view, the most important conclusion that may be drawn from the present work is that, from the response surface equation, a particular value of the response (bursting strength, air permeability) can be achieved easily from different sets of values of the same variables such as fabric weight, punch density etc.

2 illus, 3 tables, 12 ref

010946   Paul P (NO, Giani Zail Singh Coll of Engng and Technol, Bathinda-151 001) : Electrospinning process. Man Made Text India 2005, 48(10), 367-71.

Electrospinning pocess produces thin polymer fiber from a polymer melt or solution at high voltage and electrostatic field. Process has been used to produce fibers as small as 15 nm by varying the processing conditions. When a high potential difference is maintained between the capillary and metal target, the droplet at the tip of capillary forms a cone, which on exceeding a critical voltage forms a jet of fluid ejected from the cone tip. When the viscosity of the solution spun is low, a jet of droplets results whereas high viscosity polymer solutions result in a thin fiber with evaporation of solvent before reaching the target.

2 illus, 25 ref

010945   Patil S D (Dep of Fibr and Text Processing Technol, Mumbai Univ Inst of Chem Technol (MUICT), Matunga, Mumabai-400 019) : Biotechnology and fibres. Man Made Text India 2005, 48(10), 378-81.

Paper presents a foure of biotechnology in the field of textile. Though it comes later in limelight, the elegance of its content proved to be of great worth. Biotechnology is used for making of fibres which are related to medical, fermentation and pharmaceutical field. Bio-steel is produced from combining spider genetics and silk nano fibre chemistry. Acetobactor aceti an acetic acid bacterium produces cellulosic fibre which is functional material. The bacterial co polyester is produced which is as strong as nylon. Bioabsorbable fibrous material used in medical application. Multilayer fibre also produces for AIDS diagnolysis. Fibres are used for biocosmetics, artificial skin, bioreactors.

4 illuse, 2 tables, 7 ref

010944   Maulik S R;Pradhan S C (NO, , ) : Dyeing of wool and silk with Hinjal bark, Jujube bark and Himalayan rhubarb. Man Made Text India 2005, 48(10), 396-400.

4 tables, 14 ref

010943   Haghi A K;Arabani M (Text Chem Dep, Univ of Guilan, P.O. Box 3756, Rasht, Iran, Email: haghi@guilan.ac.ir) : Experimental study on plymer concrete containing expanded polystyrene beads and polyamide 66 yarns. Asian J Chem 2005, 17(4), 2495-501.

Work is directed towards the performance evaluation of the concrete composites containing different sizes of expanded polystyrene (EPS) beads. Expanded polystyrene concrete is a lightweight material. The study covers the use of three different sizes of EPS beads as lightweight aggregate in concrete. Part of the results were obtained from an earlier study reported on a novel polymer concrete essentially having EPS and polyamide 66 yarns. When largest EPS beads are used, it disintegrates along the contact zone and hence decreases the adhesion strength. The use of polyamide 66 yarns had a significant influence in creack reduction.

10 illus, 1 table, 3 ref

010942   Haghi A K (Text Chem Dep, The Univ of Guilan, P.O. Box 3756, Rasht, Iran, Email: haghi@guilan.ac.ir) : Application of microwave techniques in textile chemistry. Asian J Chem 2005, 17(2), 639-54.

Microwave heating techniques have been widely used in textile chemistry. The paper presents a state-of-the-art review of microwave technologies and industrial applications. The characteristics of microwave interactions with textile materials are outlined together with microwave fundamentals in the heat-setting process. Furthermore, the limitations in current understanding are included as a guide for potential users and for future research and development activities.

^iia2 illus, 3 tables, 25 ref

009872   Paul S;Grover E;Sharma A (Dep of Clothing and Textiles Coll of Home Sci, G.B. Pant Univ of Agric and Technol, Pantnagar-263 145) : Natural dyeing of silk with hamelia leaves. J Dairying Fd Home Sci 2005, 24(1), 36-41.

With the increasing awareness of environment, ecology and pollution control, natural dyes have a revival and heading towards a period of renaissance. They are compatible with the nature due to their non-hazardous nature and produce colours that are gentle, soft, and subtle and create a restful effect. Hamelia patens is such a valuable dye extracting plant. It yields pink colour and with the use of mordants it produces various colours on silk ranging from pink to gray. In the study an attempt has been made to optimize various dyeing variables of Hamelia dye for dyeing of silk.

2 illus, 3 tables, 3 ref

008696   Talukdar M K (NO, Kuasumgar Corporates, Mumbai-400 056) : Product development in geosynthetics. J Instn Engrs-Pt MN 2004, 86(August), 6-11.

Geosynthetics are being used by the civil engineering industry to provide support, stability, separation and drainage at or below the ground level. They are employed in the construction of buildings, bridges, retaining walls, dams, roads, railways and solid waste containments as well in embankment cuttings, dykes and sub-coastal engineering projects. In addition to providing significantly lower life-cycle construction and maintenance costs compared to many conventional engineering techniques, they also permit reduced use of land (eg, steeper cuttings and embankments) and fewer disturbances to the environment. Discusses about textile materials such as geotextiles and geogrids are discussed.

4 illus, 8 tables, 4 ref

008695   Sengupta S;Roy A N (Natn Inst Res on Jute All Fibre Technol, (ICAR), 12, Kolkata 700 040) : Studies on tracking behaviour of jute needle-punched non-woven fabric. J Instn Engrs-Pt MN 2004, 86(August), 16-20.

Needle punched jute non-woven samples were prepared changing the needle gauge, punch density and depth of needle penetration. Surface appearance or the tracking of the needle punched non-woven fabric was evaluated by visual inspection and grading technique. Tensile properties of the non-woven fabrics was also measured on an Instron Tensile Testing Machine. From the results of tensile behaviour and surface appearance of the fabric, it was concluded that almost trackless fabric can be made with 250 punches/cm², 8mm depth of needle penetration using30 gauge needle. Fabric with maximum tracking was noted at 200 punches/cm², 12 mm depth of needle penetration and 21 gauge needle.

5 illus, 2 tables, 7 ref

008694   Ramachandran T;Guruprasad S S (Dep Text Technnlogy, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004) : Role of supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO₂) in wet processing. J Instn Engrs-Pt MN 2004, 86(August), 12-15.

Environmental pollution problems have driven impetus in developing the novel concepts in wet processing using supercritical carbon dioxide fluid. This novel concept is used for dyeing of synthetic fibers and natural fibres. Since, carbon dioxide is inexpensive, non-toxic, environmentally friendly, chemically inert under many conditions and easily available, it can be utilized in textile wet processing at supercritical stage. In this SC-CO₂ dyeing process, there is no salt and auxiliaries are required hence, the cost of the effluent treatment will be drastically reduced. The supercritical is non aqueous process hence it is environmentally friendly. The review of the fundamental properties, the procedure of dyeing and scope of supercritical carbon dioxide in textile wet processing is discussed.

4 illus, 4 tables, 18 ref

008693   Ramachandralu K;Ramesh V (PSG, College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004) : Design and development of twin air-jet nozzle system for ring spinning. J Instn Engrs-Pt MN 2004, 86(August), 1-5.

Utility of the air-jet and ring combination has been known in the last decade, on its ability to reduce the yarn hairiness. However, it still offers enough scope for further work, with respect to its application in cotton spinning. In the recent past, it has been proved by the textile researchers that with the employment of air-jet nozzle in ring spinning the yarn hairiness could be reduced. Examines the effect of employing twin air-jet nozzle in ring spinning. In the study an attempt has been made to combine the advantage of air-jet spinning system, with conventional ring spinning system. Two types of air-jet nozzle similar in all dimensions but differing in the direction of inclination of orifice, namely, 'S' nozzle and 'Z' nozzle and a suitable air chamber to house these two nozzles in tandem have been designed and fabricated. This twin air-jet nozzle assembly has been positioned in between the front roller nip and lappet hook without altering the spinning angle. The yarn emerging from the front roller nip has been guided to pass through the twin air-jet nozzle and subjected to the action of opposing swirling air current created by air vortex inside the nozzles. Trials have been conducted in mill condition on 30 's carded count on conventional ring spinning machine without and with twin air-jet nozzle under four different combinations of air pressure, ie, 0.25/0.25 bar, 0.25/0.50 bar, 0.50 /0.50 bar and 0.5/1.0 bar in the 'S' and 'Z' nozzles, respectively. The yam samples thus produced have been tested for their properties like tenacity, elongation, evenness, imperfections, hairiness, diameter and twist. From the results it has been observed that the introduction of twin air-jet nozzle system in ring spinning has lead to better compaction of yarn with improvement in yarn quality index, yarn tenacity and packing factor. The twin air-jet nozzle system under 0.25 /0.50 bar pressure combination in the 'S' and 'Z' nozzles has produced the best resultswith 17.5% increased tenacity, 18.8% improvement in Yarn Quality Index and 15% increased Packing Factor, when compared to regular ring spun yarn. Proves that the twin air-jet nozzle technology could be beneficially employed for the improvement of yarn quality by the spinning industry.

7 illus, 5 tables, 5 ref

008692   Paul P (NO, Giani Zail Singh College of Engineering & Tecnnology, Bathinda) : Through air bonding. Man Made Text India 2005, August, 308-12.

Air Bonding produces material that can be bulky soft open, strong, extensible, breathable, and absorbent. The material is predominantly used for medium and high-weight basis nonwoven fabric (Geotextiles & carpet backing) as well as for nonwoven fabrics with high bulk for filtration and furniture application.

12 illus, 1 table, 4 ref

008691   Mathur M;Hira M A (Synth Art Silk Mills' Res Ass, SASMIRA, Worli, Mumbai-400 030) : Speciality fibres III: alginate fibre. Man Made Text India 2005, August, 294-9.

Paper gives an in-depth look to specialty fibre viz., Alginate Fibres. The application of alginate fibres in various fields is described while its applications in the medical textile field are explicated in details.

3 illus, 36 ref

008690   Hayavadana J;Rajan Nagendra G;Rajan Nagendra K (Text Technol Sect, University College of Technology, Osmania University, Hyderabad-500 007) : A new spinning technology air vortex spinning: utopia or reality. Man Made Text India 2005, August, 304-7.

2 illus, 6 ref

008689   Dasai A A (Departmenf Text Technol, Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat) : Protective clothing: high visibility textiles. Man Made Text India 2005, August, 300-03.

Studies have shown that reduced visibility contributes to fatal pedestrian accidents. It is believed that high visibilitY materials (HVM) assist in avoiding worker and pedestrian deaths or serious injuries. The article reviews the textile substrates that are used in reflective safety products.

1 illus, 7 ref

008688   Basu G (NO, National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology, IC, 12 Regent Park, Kolkata-700 040) : Overview on the influence of fibre characteristics on its processibility and yarn characteristics with special reference to jute. Man Made Text India 2005, August, 313-19.

1 table, 32 ref

007640   Thakare A M;Sangwan A;Yadav S (NO, Technological Inst of Text and Sci, Birla Colony, Bhiwani-127 021) : Providing comfort through phase change materials. Man Made Text India 2005, 58(6), 239-42.

In today's competitive market situation in world, the demand of today's customer is to get comfort in cloth, which is to be worn in different situations from daily wear to functional wear. Phase change materials are the source to be incorporated in textile material to add value i.e. comfort to wearer.

3 illus, 2 tables, 8 ref

007639   Tarafder N;Manna S (NO, Govt. Coll of Engng & Text Technol, 12 William Carey Road, Serampore, Hooghly-712 201) : Applications, applicators and care of personal protective clothing. Man Made Text India 2005, 58(6), 236-8.

The paper gives a brief description of different areas of application of protective garments in different forms.

12 ref

007638   Tarafder N;Bose P (Govt. Coll Engg. Text Technol, , Serampore, Hooghly-715 201) : A study on the properties of polyster fabric treated with sodium hydroxide and methanol. Man Made Text India 2005, 58(5), 267-9.

1 table, 11 ref

007637   Tandon R;Thakur V V;Chisty M H;Mathur R M; Kulkarni A G (NO, Cent Pulp & Paper Res Inst, P.O. Box 174, Saharanpur-247 001) : Enzymatic deinking an alternate technology for quality upgradation of mix office waste. IPPTA Jl 2005, 17(3), 51-5.

Despite the greater availability of the mix office waste (MOW), the use of these papers to produce higher-grade pulps is very much restricted because of bigger visible specks and contaminants in the end products. Enzymes enhanced deinking shows promise as a process for improving toner removal so that lower quality office wastepaper can be upgraded for better end use. Studies conducted at CPPRI on enzymatic deinking using commercial enzymes have shown that the quality of MOW can be upgraded at a lower cost. Improvement in yield, brightness, drainability and reduction in residual ink, dirt count, stickies, and deink sludge generation were obtained with enzymatic deinking as compared to conventional alkaline deinking. Enzymatic deinking with added benefits in terms of both quality and cost when compared with alkaline deinking may emerge into an alternative deinking technology for recovered paper. The Central Pulp & Paper Research Institute, which is an apex organization, dedicated to applied research in the area of pulp & paper in India and South East Asian region is engaged in promotion of cleaner production technologies for Pulp & Paper Industry. Enzymatic deinking is one of the thrust areas where focus has been laid upon evaluation of efficacy of various enzymes available and being developed indigenously on pulps and process conditions of enzymatic deinking, so that suitable enzymes are made available to the industry which could be effectively utilized under existing mill conditions for quality upgradation of office waste.

6 illus, 7 tables, 11 ref

007636   Tandon R;Mathur R M;Kulkarni A G (NO, Cent Pulp & Paper Res Inst, P.O. Box 174, Saharanpur-247 011) : Practices prevailing in collection, sorting and grading of recovered paper-a comparison. IPPTA Jl 2005, 17(3), 93-9.

Use of recycled fibre in paper production has increased significantly during the last five years. Today almost 37% of the paper & paperboard production in India is based on recycled fibre furnish. During the last few years, most of the capacity expansion that has taken place were based on RCF furnish only. Further due to environmental pressures future expansions are also expected to be based on RCF as the small agro based mills are gradually integrating their virgin fibre capacity with RCF based capacity to achieve the discharge norms. With this changing scenario, the demand for wastepaper requirement is bound to increase. Presently due to low recovery of indigenously consumed paper, the mills are relying on imported wastepaper procured from different regions of the world to meet their raw material requirement. The reason for low recovery is attributed to improper and unorganized collection system prevailing in the country. Wastepaper recovery system in India is very haphazard and unorganized and as a result large quantities of wastepaper gets diverted for cheaper packaging or become the part of municipal waste. Also due to lack of any grading system in place, the paper collected is in mixed form and is not found suitable for paper industry. CPPRI has made sincere efforts in this direction and under one of its project study has formulated a grading system for indigenous recovered paper which could not be made effective due to lack of an organized collection system in the country. CPPRI also made a study on prevailing practices in wastepaper collection & grading in France & Japan and it is felt that there is a considerable scope to improve the present collection system in India. CPPRI in its endeavor is continuously making effort to establish an appropriate collection system with grading in place to maximize the recovery of RCF for Indian paper industry. The paper presents the salient features of prevailing practices in collection of different grades of recovered paper and the grading system followed in France & Japan and comparison made with India to indicate the lacunas in the existing system practiced in India.

7 illus, 2 tables, 3 ref

007635   Sudhakar R;Gowda K N N (Apparel Technol Mgmt, Cent Coll Campus Bangalore Univ, Bangalore-560 001) : Dyeing of silk with flower extract of Spathodea campanulata. Man Made Text India 2005, 58(5), 255-9.

Degummed silk fabric was dyed with the flower extract of Spafhodea campanu/ata along with varying concentrations of different mordants. Colour values with respect to K/S and CIEL a b were influenced by the mordants and the mordanting techniques. Pre-mordanting was found to be better in the case of stannous chloride whereas meta-mordanting was found better in case of potassium aluminium sulphate and tannic acid with respect to colour values. The unmordanted dyed samples exhibited good fastness to washing, rubbing and perspiration, barring light. A very slight improvement in fastness to light was recorded with the use of tannic acid as mordant.

4 tables, 19 ref

007634   Sood A;Bansal A;Sharma A;Seema Rani (Dep Textiles Apparel Designing, Coll of Home Sci CSKHPKV, Palampur, Himachal Pradesh) : Effect of union dyeing of wool with litchi and apricot dye material. Man Made Text India 2005, 58(7), 205-7.

Use of natural colourants on textile fibres is required now a days due to the increased environmental pollution both to flora and fauna. Because of the increasing awareness of the environment and health hazards associated with the application of synthetic dyes on textiles, there is a global interest in natural dyed textiles. The advantages associated with natural dyes are bio-degradability, higher compatibility with environment, lower toxicity and allergic reactions in relation to synthetic dyes. Wool is a natural fibre used in hilly areas during winters. The wool yarn is dyed with mixing two natural colourants Litchi and Apricot leaves using mordant in the study. By dyeing of wool with combination of Litchi and Apricot dye material, the colours obtained exhibited excellent colour fastness to washing, crocking and light and good perspiration fastness.

5 illus, 2 tables, 5 ref