015288   Chakraborty A;Kumar P K;Chatterjee S M (NO, Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, Serampore, Hooghly-712 201) : New vista of detection of lousiness in silk fabric with digital image processing. J Instn Engrs-Pt TE 2010, 90(Feb), 3-6.

An inspection method based on binary image processing technique has been developed in an effort to obtain lousiness profile of silk fabric. The image data are used in the mathematical morphology and the back propagation neural network (BPNN) for evaluation. Maximum length, maximum width and grey level fabric defects are considered as input units in the input layer of BPNN. The grey level values corresponding to the image pixels are used to perform recognition of three types of defects, namely, high, moderate and low lousiness successfully with frequency of each defect per unit area. The average recognition rate is found to be 98.56% under 3-3-3 BPNN topology. The results prove that the inspection method developed is very effective not only in identifying and recognizing very small defect like lousiness but also act as a tool in generating almost zero-defect finer fabric.

8 illus, 2 tables

014245   Umakiran J;Anil Kumar A (NO, Jawaharlal Darda Institute of Engineering and Technology, Yavatmol) : Auxetic textile and its applications. Man Made Text India 2009, 52(8), 265-9.

When a material is stretched there is an accompanying reduction in width. A measure of this dimensional change can be defined by Poisson's ratio, v = -εx/εy. For many materials this value is positive and reflects a need to conserve volume. Auxetic materials, those with a negative Poisson ratio (NPR), display the unexpected property of lateral expansion when stretched, with an equal and opposing densification when compressed. Commonly, the tensile strength and modulus of these polymers is poor. The problem here is one of scale: an open microscopic structure confers inferior mechanical properties. To impart superior mechanical properties, auxetic structure must exist at the molecular level. The main in was to advance scientific understanding of molecular-level NPR effects. This molecular approach should overcome property limitations inherent in existing polymers with auxetic microstructures. Initially, the molecular-level requirements for auxetic fibers that may ultimately furnish a man-made material suitable for extrusion and spinning on a commercial scale. These auxetic textiles are used in many areas like biomedical field, filters, piezoelectric sensors and actuators, medical field, seat belts and safety harness in automobiles, ballistic protection, reinforcement composites and etc. Auxetic meaning and its various structures and its various applications are explained in detail in this paper.

1 table, 7 ref

014244   Tavallali H;Asrari E;Zarifian Hoveida S (NO, Payame Noor University (PNU), Shiraz, 71365-944) : Decolorization of textile wastewater by solar light and ultraviolet radiation. Nat Envir Pollut Technol 2009, 8(2), 373-6.

In this study solar light and UV radiation were used to decolourize textile wastewater samples that were green, purple and orange. The effect of them has also been investigated in presence of H₂O₂. The percentage of colour removal in maximum wavelength of each mixed dyes, that were made by using blue, red and yellow dyes, have been measured. The results have shown that purple and green dyes have maximum and minimum of decolorization percentage of 99.0 and 96.0 respectively with UV light at 90 minuets in presence of 0.5 M H₂,O₂. By using solar radiation for these samples it can be seen that the maximum percentage of decolorization was 99.5 in presence of 0.5 M H₂O₂ which also happened for green dye after 4 hours. The colour removal of orange dye was the minimum under the above conditions.

6 illus, 8 ref

014243   Kale S;Naik S;Gaikwad R (Clothing and Textiles Dep, College of Home Science, MAU, Parbhani - 431 402) : Mordant printed cotton fabric dyed in natural dye. Man Made Text India 2009, 52(8), 279-81.

The traditional craft of block printing with natural dyes can be expanded to suit the present day market demand without changing the glory of the old technique of block printing with natural dyes. But there is no standardized procedure of block printing with mordant and subsequent dyeing with natural dyes. The range of dyes used by the artisan is very limited. The people involved in dyeing and printing with natural dyes have no idea about the fastness of the dyes and of the print obtained using these dyes. The present article involves standardizing the procedure of printing with natural dyes and their evaluation in terms of the colour fastness of the prints.

1 illus, 3 tables, 2 ref

014242   Hira M A;Mathur M;Chauhan P D;Gangopadhyay U K (The Synthetic & Art Silk Mills' Research Association, , Sasmira Marg, Worli, Mumbai-400 030) : Engineering of textiles with thermo-regulatory properties. Man Made Text India 2009, 52(8), 270-9.

Thermal comfort is what the wearer seeks in clothing. This implies that t e wearer should feel at ease with normal body temperature irrespective of the temperature fluctuations in the environment. A few examples to the temperature fluctuations that one could experience are as below: The astronauts in the space shuttle traveling around the earth periodically come across the sunny side and the shady side and the corresponding temperature rise and drop. A worker in the industrial freezer compartment is equipped with clothing to protect from the freezing temperature. When this worker comes out into the normal industrial climate, he experiences overheat. Under such periodic changes in the environmental temperature, it is practically inconvenient for the victim to keep adjusting his clothing as per the climatic demands. Also the insulation of the high loft garments is because of the pockets of air trapped in the fabric. Once such garments become wet, the heat losses from it 'increase rapidly and it fails to serve the thermal protective function. In the era of comfort wear clothing, the designing of thermo-regulatory fabrics is of utmost importance. Thermo- regulatory fabrics can be developed using various fabric constructions and fabric finishes. The paper describes the various methods of designing these structures and also discusses the suitability of each. The paper further demonstrates the suitability of use of Phase Change Materials (PCM) in textiles structures for obtaining the thermo-regulatory properties in them. The methodology of incorporating PCM in textile structures and their various evaluations to establish their thermo-physical comfort have been described.

2 illus, 16 ref

013081   Upreti N K;Kukreti M C;Kandpal R P (Forest Products Div, Wood Seasoning Discipline, Forest Research Institute, Email: upretink@icfre.org) : Cost effective solar kiln for wood seasoning. J Timb Dev Ass India 2009, 55(Jan-Dec), 72-80.

Solar kiln for timber drying has already become a useful tool for small scale wood industry. The green house type solar kiln, developed by the Forest Research Institute, Dehradun, is being used by wood industry in the past 30 years. A need was felt to simplify its design to reduce its installation cost. In the present study a new solar kiln was designed and installed. The modification was mainly effected through using single glass walls and improving the vents to bring about a chimney effect. A cost reduction to the tune of 25% of cost of the old design based kiln was achieved. The temperature regime and temperature retention were found better in the new kiln.

1 illus, 2 tables, 11 ref

013080   Nawaz M (IPA, , ) : Indian paint industry-growing hopes changing realities. Paintindia 2009, 59(10), 57-66.

013079   Khali D P;Samdarshi S (Forest Products Div, Composite Wood Discipline, Forest Research Institute, Dehradun-248 006, Email: khalipd@icfre.org) : Particle boards of Enterlobium timbouva (Timbouba) part II-effect of pressure level. J Timb Dev Ass India 2009, 55(Jan-Dec), 48-53.

In this paper, suitability of Enterlobium timbouva using different specific pressure and 12 minutes hot pressing with 12% phenol formaldehyde resin has been evaluated for making particleboards. It is observed that suitable particleboards meeting the requirements of Indian Standard (IS):3087 specification can be made using 18.0 Kg/cm² specific pressure.

1 table, 19 ref

013078   John N N;Singh V R (NO, Sophisticated Instrumentation Center for Advanced research & Testing (, Vallbh Vidyanagar-388 120, Email: neethajob@gmail.com) : Nylon-66/ABS blends prepared by physical blending. Prajna 2010, 18(1-4), 59-62.

Engineering plastics arc expanding their applications in the immerging world replacing metal components and reducing weight and amongst most two of them are selected to study their blending behavior. Nylon-66(N-66) and Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) co-polymer were blended in basic conventional manner i.e. simple physical melt blending in various proportions. The reason for blending both the polymers is to study their morphology, miscibility and compatibility of blends at various ratios. Blends were studied for mechanical properties i.e. tensile strength, flexural strength, izod impact strength, etc. Blend with optimized level of mechanical property was studied for thermal properties by differential scanning calorimeter (DSC') and thermo gravimetric analysis (TGA). The morphology was studied by scanning electron microscopy (SEM).

11 illus, 1 table, 19 ref

013077   Goel B;Goel A (Clothing and Textiles Dep, Home Science College, G.B. Pant Agriculture and Technology Univ, Pantnagar-263 145) : Physical properties and therapeutic use of an ecofriendly fiber : Angora rabbit hair. Pantnagar J Res 2009, 7(1), 96-100.

The main aim of study was to sort out all the reasons causing problems during fiber processing, find out the solution for that and utilize the high warmth property of angora hair for preparation of garment from this fiber. For this a detailed study on testing of physical properties of angora hair fibers was conducted. Results of present study revealed that smooth surface structure, absence of crimp and prominent medulla of angora may be a cause of low inters fiber cohesion, difficulty in formation of web during carding operation and spinning of yarn. Poor moisture absorbency of angora may lead to generation of high level of static charge which may create disturbance during carding i.e. it's sticking on carder drum, twisting operation or mechanical processing of pure angora. The results of microscopic examination of angora showed that presence of ladder type medulla is responsible for providing high warmth/insulation property. This high warmth value of angora fiber can be utilized in making clothing for defense personal living in high altitudes and therapeutic clothing for people with arthritis and other joint diseases. The results of present investigation suggested the use of angora hair fiber in blends with such fibers which can help in exploiting the outstanding positive attributes of angora and at the same time can offer an effective means of minimizing the negative characteristics of angora hair.

1 illus, 2 tables, 14 ref

010973   Wasif A I;Indi Y M (NO, DKTES's Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji-416 115, Email: ymindi2001@yahoo.com) : Combined scouring-bleaching of cotton using potassium persulphate. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 353-7.

Attempt has been made to use hydrogen peroxide in a combined scouring and bleaching process on mill grey mercerized cotton fabric at a lower temperature in the presence of a bleach activator (potassium persulphate) and an ecofriendly commercial stabilizer. The results on assessment of various quality parameters such as whiteness and tensile strength of the bleached cotton fabric indicate no adverse effect of new process as compared to conventional combined scouring and bleaching process carried out at higher temperature. The new process is found to be successful in terms of savings in energy and time.

1 illus, 3 tables, 7 ref

010972   Viswanath C S;Ramachandran T (NO, PMR Engineering College, Chennai-600 095, Email: viswacs@yahoo.co.in) : Comfort characteristics of cotton fabrics finished with fluoro-alkyl nano lotus finish. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 342-8.

Influence of fluoro-alkyl nano lotus finish in conjunction with a silicone softener on the comfort characteristics of finished cotton apparel fabrics has been studied to impart repellency for oil and water with soil release characteristics. Fabric handle, thermal and hygral comfort in terms of total hand value, thermal insulation value and moisture transport characteristics have been analyzed through a new expression (3T values). Fluoro-alkyl, non-ionic nano emulsion is applied on the cotton woven fabric by pad-dry-cure technique at three different finish concentrations (15, 25 and 35 gpl) with 65 - 70% expression at padding. The self-cleaning and soil - release characteristics are found to be efficient at 15 gpl finish concentration, as observed from still photographs of fabric samples after washing. The fabric treated with 25 gpl finish scores the best ranking as per 3TV, the newly derived expression for comprehensive evaluation of handle and comfort characteristics.

5 illus, 3 tables, 8 ref

010971   Srinivasababu N;Murali Mohan Rao K;Suresh Kumar J (Mechanical Engineering Dep, Prasad V. Potluri Siddhartha Institute of Technology, Vijayawada-520 007, Email: cnjlms22@yahoo.co.in) : Tensile properties of turmeric fibre reinforced polyester composites. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 324-9.

Turmeric fibre has been extracted from the stem and petiole of Tekurpeta and Cuddapha turmeric (Curcuma longa) and then used for the preparation of turmeric fibre reinforced polyester composites. For enhancing the bonding between fibre and matrix, one set of turmeric fibres is chemically treated with NaOH, KMnO₄ and H₂SO₄ while another set is treated with only NaOH at varying chemical concentration and treatment time. The composites of Cuddapha turmeric stem fibre treated with 0.25 M NaOH for 13 h (CT-4 treatment) and Tekurpeta turmeric stem fibre treated with 0.125 M NaOH for 45 min, 0.01265 M KMnO₄ for 5 min and 0.0000075 H₂SO₄ for 5 min (CT-1 treatment) show the highest tensile strength (36.01 MPa) for CT-4 and tensile modulus (744.32 MPa) for CT-1. The density of the composites shows decreasing trend with the increase in volume fraction of fibre in all the cases; density of Cuddapha turmeric composites being 956.77 kg/m³ the lowest among all the other composites studied at maximum volume fraction of fibre.

8 illus, 1 table, 12 ref

010970   Sengupta S (NO, National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Technology, 12 Regent Park, Calcutta-700 040, Email: ssg_42@rediffmail.com) : Modeling on sound transmission loss of jute needle-punched nonwoven fabrics using central composite rotatable experimental design. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 293-7.

Statistical models, using central composite rotatable experimental design, have been developed to predict sound transmission loss of jute needle-punched nonwoven fabric based on the three important parameters, namely needling density, depth of needle penetration and mass per unit area. From this model and its contour diagrams, the simultaneous effects of these parameters can be understood and prediction of sound transmission loss can be made knowing the values of independent parameters. The correlation coefficient between observed and predicted values is 0.94. The maximum sound loss is achieved for 14-15 mm depth of needle penetration, whereas the minimum sound loss is observed for area density 650 g/m² and punch density 180 punches/cm².

3 illus, 2 tables, 14 ref

010969   Sayed H E;Gabry L E;Kantouch F (Textile Research Div, National Research Centre, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt, Email: hosam2@yahoo.com) : Effect of bio-carbonization of coarse wool on its dyeability. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 330-6.

Mixture of acid cellulase, acid pectinase and xylanase has been utilized for removing vegetable matters from lightly contaminated Egyptian wool fleece. The proposed mixture is found to be effective in removing almost all the impurities based on cellulose, pectin and lignin without attacking wool keratin or affecting its inherent chemical and mechanical properties. The effect of bio-carbonization of wool on its dyeability with acid and 1:1 metal complex dyes has been studied. Kinetic studies as well as the fastness properties of the dyed fibres to washing and perspiration have also been reported. The properties of bio-carbonized wool fibres are found to be better than those of wool fibres carbonized by conventional method using sulphuric acid.

2 illus, 6 tables, 18ref

010968   Santhi P;Jeyakodi Moses J (Chemistry Dep, Muthayammal Engineering College, Rasipuram, Namakkal-637 408, Email: santhiperiasamy@gmail.com) : Different reducing agents for effective vat dyeing on cotton fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 349-52.

Effect of treatment with zinc (2.0% owm), ferrous sulphate (2.0% owm), zinc + hydrose (1.0% + 1.0% owm) and ferrous sulphate + hydrose (1.0% + 1.0% owm) reducing agents on dyeing properties of cotton fabric dyed with vat dye has been studied and the results are compared with those of the treatment with conventional hydrose (2.0% owm) in terms of reduction potential, depth of shade, and SEM analysis. The appreciable results are observed for the combination ferrous sulphate + hydrose as reducing agent, showing 99.17% colour strength with uniform dyeing and good reduction potential.

2 illus, 1 table, 15 ref

010967   Samanta S K;Agarwal P (NO, Institute of Jute Technology, 35, Ballygunge Circular Road, Kolkata-700 019, Email: ijt@cal2.vsnl.net.in) : Effect of n-methylol acrylamide and ethylene diamine treatment on its textile related properties of jute fabric. J Polym Mater 2009, 26(3), 293-313.

Deals with the chemicals modification of K₂S₂O₈ pretreated oxidized jute (oxy-jute) substrate with the use ofethylene diamine and methylolated resin precondensate (N-methylol acrylamide) either individually or in combination. These chemically modified oxy-jute enriched with highly nucleophilic amino/amide/aldimine and methylol functional groups are found to improve/ alter the important textile related properties like moisture regain, tensile properties, fabric stiffness, crease recovery angle, shrinkage parameters, and thermal behavior. In this part of the work, it is observed that with increase in the % application of ethylene diamine with or without N-Methylol Acrylamide (NMA) chemically modified oxy-jute substrate show an increase in the weight gain, moisture regain and crease recovery angles. This leads to reduction in warp-way tenacity. The chemically modified oxy-jute substrate were finally characterized by analysis of copper number, scanning electron microscopy and DSC thermogram. The possible reaction mechanism have been postulated and analysed with the support of Fourier transform.

3 illus, 2 tables, 39 ref

010966   Samanta A K;Agarwal P (NO, Jute Technology Institute, 35, Ballygunge Circular Road, Email: ijt@cal2.vsnl.net.in) : Effects of choline chloride treatment on its textiles related properties of jute fabric. J Polym Mater 2009, 26(3), 315-29.

Conventionally bleached jute have been subjected to chemicals modification using reactive quaternary ammonium compounds (Hydroxy ethyl tri-methyl ammonium chloride i.e. choline chloride) either individually or in combination with DMDHEU to produce chemically modified jute substrate. These chemically modified jute substrate enriched with cationised quaternary ammonium groups with or without methylol/hydroxyl groups improve/alter some of the other textile related properties like crease recovery angle, stiffness character, tensile properties, and thermal behavior. In this part of the work, it is observed that there is a noticeable increase in the weight and crease recovery angle alongwith decrease in moisture regain with some decrease or without major changes in tensile properties as the concentration of choline chloride and DMDHEU concentration are increased. Consequent changes in chemical structure have been analysed with support ofFTIR-analysis. Changes in surface morphology and thermal behavior of chemically modified jute fibres were also examined by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and DSC thermograms.

3 illus, 2 tables, 22 ref

010965   Perumalraj R;Nalankilli G;Balasaravanan T R; Roshanraja K;Shyamsundar G;Dasaradan B S (NO, Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam-638 401, Email: raj134722002@gmail.com) : Electromagnetic shielding tester for conductive textile materials. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 361-5.

Electromagnetic shielding tester has been modified to measure the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) of conductive textile materials using the frequency range 500 MHz - 12 GHz. Various conductive copper filler fabrics have been produced and tested for their electromagnetic shielding effectiveness using both newly modified electromagnetic shielding tester and network analyzer tester (MIL-STD 285), and the values obtained by both the testers are compared and correlated. It is observed that the values measured by the newly modified electromagnetic tester show good EMSE than the network analyzer standard values in the high frequency range 8-12 GHz. The modified system can be used to measure the EMSE of conductive textile materials in the high frequency range 500MHz-12 GHz.

2 illus, 1 table, 28 ref

010964   Patra A K;Madhu A;Chakraborty J N (NO, The Technological Institute of Textile and Sciences, Bhiwani-127 021, Email: arunkpatra@rediffmail.com) : Enzymatic pretreatment of linen. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 337-41.

Linen fabric has been treated with xylanase and cellulase in the same bath as an alternative to conventional alkaline scouring at varying enzyme concentration and treatment time. The effect of the treatment has been evaluated in terms of improvement in whiteness, absorbency, residual lignin content, weight loss and change in fibre surface. The results obtained are found to be quite comparable with that of the conventional process. The enzyme treatment gives the required absorbency while the improvement in whiteness and residual lignin are satisfactory. A relatively lower weight loss indicates a rather benign effect of the enzymes.

5 illus, 3 tables

010963   Malik Z A;Malik M H;Hussain T;Tanwari A (Textile Processing Dep, National Textile University, Faizalabad 37610, Pakistan, Email: hussain.tanveer@gmail.com) : Predicting strength transfer efficiency of warp and weft yarns in woven fabrics using adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 310-16.

Application of adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system for the prediction of strength transfer efficiencies of warp and weft yarns in woven fabrics has been studied. The developed neuro-fuzzy models are based on the input-output data sets of 264 woven fabric samples, out of which the data of 234 samples are used for developing the prediction models while data of 30 samples are used for models' validation. The developed models are capable of predicting the warp and weft yarns strength transfer efficiencies quite accurately, given the strength of constituent yarns, the fabric count and the float length.

4 illus, 3 tables, 11 ref

010962   Lapcik L;Ikova B L;Abreu V G (Institute of Physics and Materials Engineering, Tomas Bata Univ, Zlin. Nad Stranemi 4511, CZ-760 05 Zlin, Czech Republic, Email: lamcik@ft.utb.cz) : Colloidal stability of paraffine aqueous nano emulsion (Mobilcer C) for water and vapour proof coating application. J Polym Mater 2009, 26(4), 381-7.

In this paper the electrophoretic light scattering (ELS) measurements were performed to characterize changes of the zeta potential, isoelectric point and the particle size of commercial paraffine wax aqueous emulsion Mobilcer C (Exxon Mobil) as induced by simple (1:1) electrolyte (KCI) and by pH of the continuous aqueous phase. The latter information was vital for better understanding of the problem of colloidal stability of the studied system. It was found in this study that the aqueous paraffine emulsion Mobilcer C (ExxonMobil) was destabilized in the pH range of 3.5 to 8.5 for 1x 1 CM M KCI solution and was subjected to partial preferential coagulation. The best stability of the emulsion was found in the pH range of 6 to 12, where zeta potential ranges between -40 to -80 mV.

2 illus, 1 table, 13 ref

010961   Halliyal V G (Silk Technology Div, Karnataka State Sericulture Research & Development Institute, Thalaghattapura, Bangalore-560 062, Email: kssrdi@vsnl.net) : Management of silkworm pupa in silk indudstry and its influence on characteristics. J Text Ass 2009, 70(2), 59-63.

Silk industry generates considerable quantity of silkworm pupa as a by-product. The efficiency of handling pupa affects its quality, further use and the extent of environmental pollution. In the present study pupa samples were collected at different stages during the processing of cocoons and pupa. The samples were analyzed for different physical and chemical characteristics. Pupa oil was extracted using n-Hexane by solvent extraction process. These samples were analyzed for chemical characteristics. It is observed from the present study that pupa oil manufactured from pupa stored for long period of time is bound to be malodorous with high acid value and undesirable characteristics. High quality oil and spent pupa can be produced by adopting better handling methods as indicated in the present study by the silk industry.

3 illus, 2 table, 5 ref

010960   Ganesan P;Sundaresan S;Gowri K;Sasikala L; Mageshkumar P (Textile Technology Dep, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Combatore, Email: ganeshg007@rediffmail.com) : Aviation composites. J Text Ass 2009, 70(2), 64-9.

Weight reduction has been a critical goal since the earliest days of crewed flight, Following initial applications of wood, fabric, and wire for structural components, the aircraft industry made a major transition to aluminum and all-metal aircraft. As a result of this approach to structural design, modern civil aircraft are designed with greatly reduced aircraft operating empty weight to achieve a significant payload to weight fraction that contributes directly to aircraft flight efficiency. In the transition to aluminum components, the industry accepted the significant costs that were required to retool and modify its manufacturing processes. In this paper we deal about the weight reduction techniques and composite process methods of the aviation industries.

7 illus, 1 table, 15 ref

010959   Dedhia E;Gupta M (College of Home Science, Mumbai Univ, Nirmala Niketan, 49, New Marine Lines, Mumbai-400 020, Email: elamanojdedhia@yahoo.com) : Emerging Trends in Fabrics for Men's shirts. J Text Ass 2009, 70(2), 70-3.

Shirts fall in the category of formal, casual and occasional wear. There is further sub segmentation on the basis of pricing and buyer's profile in the metros and non-metros. The shirt industry is offering high quality fabrics in diverse designs and blends as per latest fashion trends. Shirting fabrics play an extremely important role in a readymade shirt. Fabric type is one of the important factors as the functional criteria during formation into a readymade garment. Shirt fabrics also play important criteria for selection and buying decisions. The performance of the fabric does not necessarily predict the performance of the shirt but the two are strongly related as the right fabric is required for shirt to meet aesthetic and functional performance expectations. Standards for fabric for shirts are based on factors such as design, fashion trends, consumer's preferences, price and market profile. Fabrics provide men with the right choice of fabric that suits their lifestyle. Besides colour and patterns, the fabrics also provide dress shirts with varying textures and give the men, literally, a different feel for each fabric. Men while making purchases; base their decisions on design as well as fabric. It is important for manufacturers, retailers and consumers to know emerging trends in fabrics for men shirts as men can try different dress shirts fabrics to create variation within their wardrobe. Also it is the task of textile technologist and designers to know in detail about the emerging raw materials of readymade shirts in order to help the common people to access the quality parameters of the garment before selection. There is steady growth in the international men's wear industry. This is witnessed in last few years as men are becoming more fashion conscious.

12 ref

010958   Das D;Pourdeyhimi B (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi-110 016, Email: dipayan@textile.iitd.ernet.in) : Compressional and recovery behaviour of highloft nonwovens. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 303-9.

Compressional and recovery behaviour of highloft nonwovens has been studied with a view to know how the fibre materials used and manufacturing technologies employed drive and dictate this behaviour. The results show significant effects of physical and mechanical properties of fibres on the compressional and recovery behaviour of highlofts. It is also observed that highlofts produced by different bonding technologies show significantly different compressional and recovery behaviour. The experimental results are found in satisfactory agreement with the theoretical results.

8 illus, 3 tables, 18 ref

010957   Biswas S K (NO, Institute of Jute Technology, 35, Ballygunge, Circular Road, kolkata-700 019, Email: tp-skb@yahoo.com) : Length of jute fibre via gamma distribution function. J Text Ass 2009, 70(2), 56-8.

Notwithstanding the complexity of production of jute fibre filaments computer simulation of four types of frequency distribution of jute fibre length depending on method of sampling and testing is presented. A study of fibre length-frequency distribution depending on methods of sampling and testing may lead to a general form of Gamma distribution function.

1 illus, 1 table, 12 ref

010956   Baghaei B;Shanbeh M;Ghareaghaji A A (Textile Engineering Dep, Isfahan University of Technology, Isfahan 84156-83111, Iran, Email: mshanbeh@cc.iut.ac.ir) : Effect of tensile fatigue cyclic loads on bagging deformation of elastic woven fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(4), 298-302.

Bagging characteristics of elastic woven fabrics under tensile fatigue cyclic loads have been studied. The effect of draw ratio of core part and twist factor of cotton/spandex core-spun yarns on bagging characteristics has been studied. The results show that the amount of bagging fatigue of woven samples seems to be reduced when high level of draw ratio and low level of twist coefficient are applied. Furthermore, bagging fatigue increases after 1000 cyclic loads but no significant change is observed after 2000 cyclic loads.

4 illus, 2 tables, 15 ref

010012   Sood Y V;Tyagi S;Tyagi R;Pande P C;Tandon R (NO, Central Pulp & Paper Research Institute, Saharanpur-247 001, Email: soodyv@gmail.com) : Effect of base paper characteristics on coated paper quality. Indian J chem Technol 2010, 17(4), 309-16.

The quality of coated paper is mainly governed by the characteristics of base paper. The three main base paper properties which contribute to the variations on coat weight and print non-uniformity in coated paper are roughness, absorbency and sheet matrix formation. Increase in roughness of base paper gives coated paper of lower smoothness and gloss at a particular coat weight. Along with roughness the compressibility of base paper also plays important role. Porosity and sizing degree which affect absorbency of base paper also affect the coated paper quality. Porosity of base paper has minor effect on coated paper roughness. The gloss of coated paper is improved with sizing and sheet densification. Sheet matrix non-uniform formation has little effect on coated paper gloss, however, it adversely affects the smoothness and print uniformity. Loadingof base paper with PCC gives better effect on brightness, picking velocity and print saturation density than GCC and Talc.

1 illus, 9 tables, 18 ref

010011   Shanmugasundaram O L;Mahendra Gowda R V (NO, Textile Tecnology Dep, Tiruchengode-637 215) : Development and characterization of bamboo and organic cotton fibre blended baby diapers. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(3), 201-5.

Reports study on the development and characterization of baby diapers made from four different fibrous lions, namely pure bamboo, pure organic cotton, bamboo/organic cotton (70/30), and bamboo/organic cotton 50)/50). Antibacterial activity tests have been carried out on baby diapers against S aureus and E coli. Superabsorbent polymer sodium polyacrylate has been incorporated into the diapers to enhance their absorption capacity. Various tests such is puduct density, thickness, absorption capacity, liquid strike- through, acquisition time under load and diaper rewet under load have been carried out to study the gerformance of the diapers. It is found that the diaper made from bamboo/organic cotton (70/30) exhibits best performance.

2 illus, 13 ref

010010   Sengupta S;Debnath S (NO, National institute of Research on Jute & Allied Fibre Technology, 12, Regent Park, Kolkata-700 040, Email: ssg_42@rediffmail.com) : New approach of jute indutstry to produce facy blended yarn for uphostery. J scient ind Res 2010, 69(12), 961-5.

This study presents a new approach to make jute based yarn by blending polypropylene in jute (30:70) in jute finisher drawing. Fabric has been made in specially modified handloom. Developed fabric showed higher area density, thickness, and weft crimp, tenacity and rigidity and it was cheap than commercial fabric. It was dimensionally and quality wise stable after wash, and showed no visible deterioration or deformation including surface texture, when used as table cloth and bed cover for two months.

3 illus, 4 table, 15 ref

010009   Sengupta S (NO, National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology, 12 Regent Park, Kolkata-700 040, Email: ssg_42@rediffmail.com) : Sound reduction by needle-punched nonwoven fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(3), 237-42.

Effect of area density, fabric type, source intensity, number of layers, distance of fabric from sound source, distance of fabric from the receiver and fibre type on sound reduction of various needle-punched nonwoven fabrics has been studied indigenously fabricated equipment. Nonwoven fabric shows higher sound reduction than the woven fabric. Jute-polypropylene (1:1) blend shows maximum sound reduction among jute, polypropylene, polyester and other jute-polypropylene blend (3:1 and 1:3) samples. Higher area density is responsible for higher sound reduction and there is a negative correlation between area density or bulk density of needle-punched nonwoven and sound reduction. With the in number of layers of nonwoven fabric, the sound reduction through the fabric increases initially but after the maximum it remains almost unaltered. Sound reduction also increases as the distance between the fabric and the sound increases, and the source decibel decreases.

7 illus, 2 table, 10 ref

010008   Saravanan D;Vasanthi N S;Senthil Raja K;Das A (Textile-Fashion Technology Dep, Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam-638 401, Email: dapathe2001@rediffmail.com) : Bleaching of cotton fabrics using hydrogen peroxide produced by glucose oxidase. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(3), 281-3.

Bleaching effect of cotton fabrics using hydrogen peroxide by glucose oxidase enzyme from Aspergillus niger has been studied. It is observed that enzymes are highly active at acidic pH under room temperature in terms of peroxide release during thc reaction. Incomplete conversion of glucose by the enzymes, results in discolouration of the reaction bath and the fabrics under alkaline pH conditions. External supply of oxygen and mechanical agitation during initial stage of reaction influence the eversion of glucose into hydrogen peroxide and whiteness conv of bleached samples.

2 illus, 12 ref

010007   Sabale A G;Rane V M (NO, , 504, 2C, MHADA Colony, Pratiksha Nagar, Sion (E), Mumbai-400 022, Email: ashoksabale@rediffmail.com) : Whiter whites !brighter brights!!. J Text Ass 2010, 70(4), 188-93.

Optical brighteners, optical brightening agents (OBAs), fluorescent brightening agents (FBAs) or fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) are organic compounds or dyes that absorb light in the ultraviolet and violet region (usually 340-370nm) of the electromagnetic spectrum, and re-emit light in the blue region (typically 420-470nm) visible region causing a "whitening" effect (1). Therefore, a surface containing a fluorescent compound can emit more than the total amount of daylight that falls on it, giving an intensely brilliant white. The effect of fluroscense is only operative when the incident light has a significant proportion of ultraviolet rays such as sunlight. When OBA's are exposed to UV fluorescing light bulbs, "black light", the objects glow in the dark, a sure fire way of identifying fibers that are treated with optical brighteners. The current paper deals with the general chemistry and application of commonly used OBA's for various natural as well as synthetic substrates.

4 illus, 1 table, 17 ref

010006   Ramachandran T;Manonmani G;Vigneswaran C (Textile Technology Dep, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004, Email: vignes_waran@rediffmail.com) : Thermal behaviour of ring-and compact-spun yarn single jersey, rib and interlock knitted fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(3), 250-7.

The effect of thermal behaviour, such as thermal insulation, thermal conductivity and thermal diffusion, of single jersey, rib and interlock knitted fabrics made out of ring- and compact-spun yarns has been studied. The physical characteristics, such as fabric aerial density, air permeability, tightness factor, and fabric thickness, have been studied and their relationship with thermal behaviour using multivariable ANOVA analysed. The experimental results show that the thermal conductivity, thermal diffusion and thermal resistance of the knitted fabrics depend on the fabric properties such as thickness, tightness factor, aerial density and air permeability. It is found that the compact-spun yarn knitted fabrics (Sussen Elite and Com4) show higher thermal insulation behaviour in all the knitted structures in comparison to ring- spun varn knitted fabrics.

7 illus, 6 table, 15 ref

010005   Prusty A;Gogoi N;Jassal M;Agrawal A K (Textilt Technology Dep, Research Group on Smart and Innovative Textile Materials (SMITA), Indi, New Delhi-110 016, Email: manjeetjassal@gmail.com) : Syntheis and characterization of non-fluorinated copolymer emulsions for hydrophobic finishing of cotton textiles. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(3), 264-71.

Non-flouro copolymers containing a hydrophobic alkyl acrylate monomer (butyl acrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate/lauryl acrylate) and a reactive monomer (maleic anhydride) have been synthesized using emulsion polymerization technique. The copolymer emulsions have been applied on to cotton fabric by a pad-dry-cure process and the water repellency of the fabrics before and after vigorous washes compared. The effect of chain length of hydrophobic monomer on the water repellency has been compared and the comfort properties of the coated fabrics such as air permeability and bending length evaluated. It is observed that the copolymers prepared using long alkyl chain acrylates show promising alternatives to the repellent agents based on perfluoroalkyl chains for water repellency.

4 illus, 6 table, 14 ref

010004   Patil K S (Textiles & Clothing Dep, S M R K-B K-A K Mahila Mahavidyalaya, Nashik) : Paithani-mahavastra of Maharashatra. J Text Ass 2010, 70(5), 241-5.

The woven textile has always been of great importance on manifestation of the tradition and culture of the people. To understand and appreciate a traditional textile, one must bring into play the senses of texture, colour and design. A Weaver weaves for pleasure and joy. This joy is reflected in his weave. Does the quality stand in domestic as well in international market?

4 illus, 1 table, 18 ref

010003   Pandya A;Vishwakarma A (Clothing and Textiles Dep, The Maharaja Sayajiroa Baroda Univ, Family and Community Sciences, Vadodara-390 002, Email: amita_1957@yahoo.co.in) : Rogan, the traditional hand painted textile of Gujarat. Indian J Tradl Knowledge 2010, 9(4), 644-50.

The study attempts to rematerialize the traditional art of rogan painting by documenting its glorious textile which has reached the verge of extinction. The major objectives were to document the craft of rogan painting in detail and authenticate the changes that have come across during the manufacturing process, colours, motifs and products. The data regarding the craft was gathered purposively i.e. pertaining to craft documentation was collected from five craftsmen, who were practicing rogan painting in traditional method during the time of data collection. The art of rogan craft is traditional hand painting has undergone tremendous changes in production process, tools and equipments, motif and colours used.

8 illus, 6 ref

010002   Pandya A;Thoudam J (Clothing and Textiles Dep, Faculty of Family and Community Sciences, The MS Baroda Univ, Vadodara-390 002, Email: amita_1957@yahoo.co.in) : Handloom weaving, the traditional craft of Manipur. Indian J Tradl Knowledge 2010, 9(4), 651-5.

Hand woven textiles have always been a rich source of one's tradition. In the Northeast region of India, each tribe or community has its own specific designs and motifs. Manipur enjoys a distinct place amongst textiles zones in India. Women folk are practicing weaving in Manipur. The crafts is woven with culture and spiritual beliefs of the natives of Manipur since time immemorial. But due to social changes incorporated with modern technology, the traditional hand woven textiles of Manipur are few to be found and they are rapidly changing in terms of designs, motifs, yarns and processes. The study was an attempt towards the preservation of the textiles before they are completely depleted. The main objective was to document the hand woven textiles of Manipur. The related data was collected purposively from three selected villages by using observation cum interview method.

24 illus, 6 ref

010001   Nayak L K;Mojumder P;Bhaduri S K (National Instituite of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology, Indian Council of Agriculture Research, 12, Regentpark, Kolkata, Email: sbhaduri2000@yahoo.com) : Physical characteristics of sugar palm (Borassus flabellifer L.) seed fibre. J Text Ass 2010, 70(4), 183-7.

Physical characteristics of palm seed fibre, a non-conventional lignocellulosic fibre extracted from the seed of sugar palm (Borassus flabellifer L.), were studied by FTIR, X-ray diffraction and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The infra-red spectra of defatted palm seed fibre showed peaks in the region as observed for lignocellulosic fibres like jute.The infra-red spectra of 5% alkali treated and hydrogen peroxide bleached samples of defatted fibre showed the peaks similar to those of control defatted fibre except in the reduction in peak intensity of the 1738 cm^-1 and 1251 cm^-1 bands in the spectra of the two treated fibres due to loss of hemicel-lulose containing carboxyl and acetyl group. The degree of crystallinity (50.9) of the fibre, determined by X-ray method, showed the fibre less crystalline than other lignocellulosic fibres like jute, sunn hemp, etc due to presence of high amount of amorphous carbohydrates in its chemical composition. The SEM study of the raw, defatted, bleached and 5% alkali treated fibre samples showed longitudinal arrangement of the fibrils as observed in other lignocellulosic fibres. Soil burial test indicated that the microbial resistance of the fibre gradually decreased with incubation period and the retention in tensile strength was found 45.89% on sixth day.

8 illus, 2 table, 10 ref

010000   Mini P V (NO, KIRTADS, Kerala Institute for Research, Training and Development Studi, Chevayur, Kozhikode-17, Kerala) : Preparation techniques of pigments for traditional mural paintings of Kerala. Indian J Tradl Knowledge 2010, 9(4), 635-9.

In Kerala, traditionally the mural painting is done in five colours - red, yellow, green, black and white. Colours are prepared from vegetables and mineral pigments. Red is derived from red literate, yellow is derived from yellow laterite, white from lime, and black from soot of oil-lamps. Leaves of Neelamari or Neelachedi plant are squeezed and the extract is  used after drying up to be mixed with Eravikkara for obtaining the green pigment. Wooden utensils are used for mixing the colours and the binding media used is derived from tender coconut water and extracts from the neem tree (Azadirachta indica). The wall preparation for the mural is arduous and time consuming process. The line drawing is made initially on the prepared wall and subsequently the five colours are applied. The entire process of a mural painting involves meticulous balancing of various components. The perfection and the finer aspects of the work depend on the preparation of pigments. An understanding of the traditional knowledge developed by its early practitioners enhances the life of the mural paintings.

5 illus, 13 ref

009999   Many J N;Vasugi Raaja N (PG & Research Dep of Home Science, Bharathidasan Govt College for Women, Puducherry-605 003) : Effect of seam on drape coefficient of selected fabrics. J Text Ass 2010, 70(5), 229-32.

Fabric drape is an important property and it determines the adjustment o clothing to the human silhoutte. Fabrics may drape in different ways, it depends on the different parameters like fibre type, yarn type, fabric type, fabric structure etc. Draping behaviour of garment depend on different processing parameters like seam direction, seam width, stitch length, sewing thread etc. In the present study seam direction and sewing thread were taken to study drape behaviour.

1 illus, 4 table, 10 ref

009998   Majumdar A;Mangla R;Gupta A (Texile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi-110 016, Email: abhitexilt@rediffmail.com) : Developing a decision support system software for cotton fibre grading and selection. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(3), 195-200.

The study on the development of a 'decision support system (DSS)' software for cotton fibre grading and selection,.and its applications in the textile spinning industry. Two multi-criteria decision making approaches, namely 'analytic hierarchy process (AHP)' and 'technique for order preference by similarity to ideal solutions (TOPSIS)', have been amalgamated in the developed DSS software. AHP has been used to elicit the relative importance or weights of cotton fibre properties and TOPSIS to calculate the final quality value (closeness index) of cotton fibres with respect to yarn qualities. The developed software has been validated using the published cotton fibre and yarn data. The quality value of cotton fibres given by the DSS software shows good correlation with the yarn uneveness.

6 illus, 2 table, 18 ref

009997   Mairal A K;Hardianto (Textile Chemistry Dep, The M S University of Baroda, Vadodara-390 001, Email: drakm11@yahoo.co.in) : Dyeability studies of modified polyester in silk degumming waste liquor with disperse dyes. J Text Ass 2010, 70(4), 167-74.

Polyesters have certain limitations such as hydrophobicity and static propensity. The use of sericin to modify polyester in order to make it hydrophilic is of great interest as sericin is a biomaterial which is eco-friendly. In the present work, silk degumming waste liquor containing sericin was utilized as the medium for dyeing 100% polyester fabric and to modify the polyester to have higher moisture regain. Conventional High Temperature High Pressure (HTHP) and Thermosol (pad-dry-cure) dyeing methods were used to colour the 100% polyester. The aim of this study is to study the dyeability of 100% polyester fabric modified and dyed in silk degumming waste liquor with disperse dyes. K/S value, moisture regain and tensile strength of the 100% polyester fabric are studied.

6 illus, 2 table, 10 ref

009996   Mahish S S;Punj S K;Kothari V K (NO, Technological Institute of Textile and Sciences, Bhiwani-127 021, Email: smahish@yahoo.com) : Optimization of process parameters in air-jet texturing of polyester/viscose blended yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(3), 213-21.

The effect of process parameters on properties of polyester/viscose blended air-jet textured yarns has been studied. It is observed that with the increase in texturing speed the yarn physical bulk reduces, and instability and tenacity increase. With increasing air pressure or overfeed, the physical bulk and instability increase, whereas tenacity reduces. Regression equations for the prediction of air-jet textured yarns properties have also been derived. On the basis of the regression equations the optimum process parameters for producing good quality air-jet textured yarns have been obtained, considering that the yarns with lowest instability, and high bulk and tenacity are desirable. Yarn instability is accorded the highest weightage while bulk is given intermediate and tenacity the lowest weightage in order to find out the combination of parameters that will produce yarns of low instability, high bulk and high tenacity values.

3 illus, 6 table, 10 ref

009995   Kulloli S D;Naik S D (Textiles and Apparel Designing Dep, College of Rural Home Science, UAS, Dharwad-580 005) : Draping behaviour of white cotton, P/C and natural colour linted cotton union fabrics. J Text Ass 2010, 70(5), 219-22.

Two genotypes of naturally brown coloured cotton yarns viz., Dharwad Desi Colour Cotton-1 (DDCC-1) and Dharwad Brown Hirsutum - 250 (DBH-2SO) were woven on handloom with white cotton and P/C blend to produce user and eco-friendly union fabrics. To know the draping behaviour of these fabrics since drape is one of the subjective characteristic of fibre that contributes to its aesthetic appeal while the style of a garment and its type determine the amount of drape that is needed, accordingly the fabric is selected. Results reveal that, DDCC-1 interlaced fabrics showed lower drape co-efficient (higher drapability) than DBH-250 interlaced fabrics. However, white cotton union fabrics draped better than P/C union fabrics.

3 illus, 4 table, 1 ref

009994   Kathari V P;Patil B G;Das S (NO, Central Silk Technological Research Institute, BTM Layout, Madiwala, Bangalore-560 068, Email: vpkathari@yahoo.co.in) : New energy efficient process with solar water heating system for multiend silk reeling unit. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(3), 277-80.

A new energy efficient process has been developed with solar water heating system for multiend silk reeling, and the energy consumption for cooking and reeling operations is calculated and compared with conventional process. It is found that in conventional process, on an average 570 L and 1000 L of water is consumed for cocoon cooking and reeling basins respectively for the production of 10 kg raw silk in 10 basin multiend reeling unit; hence, a huge amount of firewood is required to produce heat energy for processing. The new energy efficient process with solar water heating system yields a saving of 77.97% firewood consumption compared to conventional process.

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009993   Kale R D (Fibres & Textile Processing Technology Dep, Institute of Chemical Technology, Matunga, Mumbai-400 019, Email: rd.kale@ictmumbai.edu.in) : Microfibre: processing and applications. J Text Ass 2010, 70(5), 233-9.

Fabrics made of microfibre has opened up new opportunities in textile industry because of their unique properties like light weight and high cover, excellent softness and drape, silky hand, wear comfort because of their extreme fineness. But it also represents unique challenges for the processor like low depth of shade, low dye levelness, low dye fastness deeper shades are particularly difficult to obtain, greater extent of shrinkage. In this review paper, precautions to be taken while processing the fabrics made up of microfibers and also their application has been given.

3 illus, 2 table, 16 ref

009992   Joshi R N;Singh S P (Humanities & Social Sciences Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, Rooekee, Dist-Haridwar, Uttarakhand-247 667, Email: rnjoshitextile@yahoo.co.in) : Sector-wise analysis of India's textile and clothing export. J Text Ass 2010, 70(4), 163-6.

This paper examines the trends and composition of India's textile and clothing exports. Data for the study have been collected from several secondary sources such as website of WTO, Ministry of Textile, Ministry of Commerce and indiastat.com. The paper finds that with the growing competition in the global export of textile and clothing (T&C), India's share in the world's export shows inclined trends with lesser share, whereas China has emerged as a leading player in the world market. The analysis of data indicates that some changes in the composition of India's export of T&C have occurred over the period. The share of cotton textile in India's total T&C export declined from 37% in 1996 to 26% in 2006 while that of RMG increased from 39% to 49%. During the period 1996-2006, the exports of RMG, man-made textiles, silk textiles and jute textiles achieved positive growth rates whereas export of wool and woolen textiles experienced negative growth rates. The export trend indicates that the India's export of knitted apparel grew faster than that of woven apparel in the US and EU markets during 2002-07.

1 illus, 4 table, 10 ref

009991   Hussain T;Malik Z A;Tanwari A (Textile Processing Dep, National Texstile Univ, Faisalabad-37610, Pakistan) : Prediction of tensile strength of polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2010, 35(3), 243-9.

Statistical models have been developed for the prediction of tensile strength of polyester/cotton (52:48) blended woven fabrics. The models have been developed based on the empirical data obtained from carefully developed 234 fabric samples with different constructions using 15, 20 and 25 tex yarns in warp and weft. The prediction ability and accuracy of the developed models are assessed by correlation analysis of the predicted and actual warp and weft fabric strip-strength values of another set of 36 fabric samples. The results show a very strong ability and accuracy of the prediction models.

2 illus, 6 table, 10 ref