001022   Rezig S;Jaouadi M;Khoffi F;Msahli S;Durand B (Laboratory of Tectile Engineering, Monastir Univ, Tunisia, Email: rezig.sana@yahoo.fr) : Optimization of extraction process of typha leaf fibres. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 242-8.

The influence of temperature, duration and soda (NaOH) concentration on the extraction yield, linear density, diameter, tenacity and lignin ratio of Typha leaf fibres has been studied. A factorial design of experience has been used to identify the optimum operating conditions, and equations relating to the dependent variables to the operational variables of the extraction process are established. The optimum extraction condition has been determined by the statistical study using response surface and desirability function. The morphology of the obtained fibres and chemical constituents are determined. Fibres, extracted from leaves of Typha with the optimum process, have a lignin content value of about 14% like jute, alpha-cellulose value of about 67% similar to pineapple and jute fibres, extractives content value of about 1%, starches content value of about 2% and ash content value of about 1%. Finally, the characteristics of the optimum Typha fibre are compared with those of other vegetable fibres, showing large diameter and low mechanical properties as compared to other vegetable fibres.

2 illus, 6 tables, 31 ref

001021   Rafique S;Khattak S P;Hussain T;Ahmad B;Seemi I (College of Home Economics, Peshawar Univ, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, Email: bashirdr2015@yahoo.com) : Colour fastness properties of polyester/cotton fabrics treated with pigment orange and various functional finishes. Asian J Chem 2015, 27(12), 4568-74.

This study was conducted to develop an eco-friendly pigment colouration method in combination with functional finishing treatment for polyester/cotton blended fabrics. The advantages of pigment dyeing are manifold, however the rubbing fastness of colours in deeper shades is doubtful, hence it requires further exploration. The undertaken research focused on the assessment of colour fastness characteristics of polyester/cotton fabrics treated with pigment colourants and common functional finishes. The effect of finish type and concentration along with two different approaches of finish application were considered. As regards the effect of finishing techniques, the meta finishing treatments of dyed polyester/cotton fabrics with pigments, provided maximum dry rubbing fastness at both high and low concentrations of finish, while wet rubbing and wash fastness (staining) were found to be better in performance than post finishing method only at low concentration. The most favourable results regarding wet rubbing fastness of fabrics were attained by the treatment of durable water and oil repellent finish. The responses of soft polyurethane, water repellent (NUVA FD) and water/oil repellent (NUVA 3585) on dyed polyester/cotton fabrics were maintained at a good level of wash fastness (shade change). Moreover, desirable wet crocking and washing fastness of fabrics was achieved by incorporating fluorine dispersion (water repellent finish) directly in to the pigment formulations.

8 illus, 7 tables, 16 ref

001020   Pattanaik M N;Ray S C (NO, College of Engineering & Technology, Bhubaneswar-751 003, Email: Sadhan53@yahoo.co.in ) : Effect of silicone treatment on hand value of cotton handloom fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 298-305.

Cotton handloom woven finished fabrics have been treated with silicone softener in order to improve the hand value by overcoming the inherent drawbacks, such as harsh feel of handloom fabrics, so as to make them suitable for readymade garments. Evaluation of the hand values of handloom fabrics in terms of bending stiffness, surface roughness and softness have been conducted by using simple and cheaper instruments/techniques, like Shirley stiffness tester, digital image processing methods and fabric feel tester. It is observed that with the increase in concentration of silicone softener there is an improvement in the softness as well as smoothness of the fabrics. Consumers experience a better feel when they touch the silicone treated handloom fabric or the garment by their hand.

2 illus, 6 tables, 13 ref

001019   Palaskar S S;Desai A N;Shukla S R (Plasma Laboratory, The Bomba Textile Research Association, LBS Marg Ghatkopar (W) Mumbai-400 086, Email: btraplasma@gmail.com) : Plasma induced nano-finish for multifunctional properties on cotton fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 325-30.

Atmospheric pressure dielectric barrier discharge plasma treatment for fabric surface activation to facilitate deposition of nano silicon oxide, and nano-titanium dioxide onto cotton fabric has been studied. It is aimed to study the possibility of engineering a multifunctional cotton fabric. The treated fabric is evaluated for ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), antimicrobial activity, and flame retardancy as a functional finish. Surface morphology (SEM), thermo-gravimetric analysis (TGA), and mechanical properties are also studied. Scanning electron microscopy shows deposition of nano particles onto the fabric. He-O₂ plasma pre-treatment improves the flame retardancy, UPF, antibacterial activity and thermal stability of the samples as compared to untreated samples. In order to improve the wash fastness of the finish, HMDSO plasma polymer is deposited on the surface of the finished fabric which acts as a barrier layer and imparts durable finish on cotton textiles.

6 illus, 4 tables, 25 ref

001018   Ni X;Yu Y;Wang Q;Fan X;Cavaco-Paulo A;Yuan J (Key Laboratory of Science and Technology of Eco-Textile, Ministry of E, Jiangnan Univ, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, PR China, Email: qiang_wang@163.com) : Effect of immobilized cellulase enzyme treatmebt on properties of ramie fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 331-7.

In this study, Eudragit S-100 has been covalently bound to the cellulase enzyme to form immobilized cellulase enzyme and then the effect of the treatment on ramie fabric properties is studied. The ramie fabrics treated with immobilized cellulase enzyme show lower quantities of reducing sugar, weight loss, and higher tensile strength than native cellulase enzyme-treated fabrics. Scanning electron microscopic analysis shows that the surface of ramie fabrics treated with cellulase enzyme is smoother than that of the untreated sample. Furthermore, treatment by the immobilized cellulase enzyme is less damaging to the fibres. X-ray diffraction studies show that there is hardly any loss in the crystallinity of ramie fabrics. Low-stress mechanical properties evaluated by the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric indicate that immobilized cellulase enzyme treatment improves the softness, flexibility, and elastic recovery of the ramie fabrics.

7 illus, 2 tables, 28 ref

001017   Mayekar V M;Nachane R P (Physics Dep, Ramnarain Ruia College, Mumbai-400 019, Email: drrpnachane@hotmail.com) : Fabric pilling-objective measurement system. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 338-43.

An objective method of measuring pilling profile of fabric has been proposed using an inexpensive newly developed instrumentation. This measurement has been validated by direct measurement of pills using stereo microscope, as suggested by correlation analysis carried out between two sets of data. Results indicate that the objective assessment of pilled fabric could reliably be done by this machine, which can support subjective assessment done by the experts in grading of fabric.

^ssc4 illus, 14 ref

001016   Karthik T;Murugan R (Textile Technology Dep, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004, Email: muruganavd@gmail.com) : Optimization of process variables in rotor spinning for the production of cotton/milkweed blended yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 263-9.

Cotton/milkweed (60/40) blended yarn of 29.5 tex has been produced on rotor spinning system. The influence of fibre friction, opening roller speed and sliver linear density on rotor yarn properties has been studied using Box and Behnken factorial design and the optimum conditions within the processing limits of the machines are established. The results show that fibre friction is the dominant factor in determining the tensile properties and other properties of rotor-spun yarn. It is observed that a higher fibre friction gives higher yarn tenacity, and lower yarn unevenness, imperfection and hairiness. The opening roller speed also has a greater influence on rotor yarn properties. With an increase in opening roller speed, the number of points per fibre increases, which results in better fibre separation and improvement in yarn properties. But very high opening roller speed deteriorates the yarn properties and increases the end breakage rate mainly due to fibre breakage and low fibre straightness. Generally, heavier sliver weight leads to higher spinning draft which deteriorates the yarn properties.

5 illus, 4 tables, 20 ref

001015   Jabbar A;Militky J;Wiener J;Javaid M U; Rawawire S (Material Engineering Dep, Technical Univ of Liberec, Studentska 2461 17 Liberec, Czech Republic, Email: abduljabbarntu@gmail.com ) : Tensile, surface and thermal characterization of jute fibres after novel treatments. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 249-54.

Jute fibres have been treated with enzymes, CO₂ pulsed infra red laser, ozone and plasma to study the effect of these treatments on their tensile, surface and thermal properties. Surface characteristics of jute fibres have been examined by scanning electron microscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy while thermal characteristics using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). No significant reduction in the tensile strength of treated jute fibres is observed. Changes in the surface chemical composition and increase in surface roughness are observed after the treatments. DSC data show a decrease in decomposition temperature of hemicellulose of all treated jute fibres. DSC and TGA analyses show no marginal difference in the cellulose decomposition temperature of untreated and treated jute fibres. The study shows a change in the surface chemistry and morphology after treatments without any substantial change in the thermal stability and tensile properties of jute fibres. The study also reveals the potential use of infrared laser and ozone treatments for the modification of natural fibres besides the conventional treatments using enzymes and plasma.

5 illus, 1 table, 38 ref

001014   Ishtiaque S M;Rangasamy R S;Das B R (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, New Delhi-110 016, Email: biswaiitd@gmail.com) : Tensile failure of blended spun yarns under dynamic condition: part I - yarn failure during warping. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 255-62.

The failure behaviour of polyester/viscose blended ring, rotor and air-jet spun yarns has been studied on the basis of fibre failure coefficient, yarn broken end configuration and failure zone length. The failure behaviour of spun yarns under warping process is simulated in the dynamic tensile tester. The tensile failure behaviour of ring, rotor and air-jet yarns are found to be different owing to their difference in fibre consolidation mechanism. The yarn failure is observed to be more and more dominated by fibre slippage once moving from ring to rotor and finally to air-jet yarns. The study also reports mathematical modeling of spun yarn failure behaviour during warping process. The mathematical model indicates that the spun yarn failure is non-linearly related to yarn structural parameters.

3 illus, 5 tables, 12 ref

001013   Hasnat A;Ghosh A;Hoque A;Halder S (NO, Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, Berhamore-742 101, Email: anindya.textile@gmail.com) : Pattern classification of cotton yarn neps. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 270-7.

In this study, two types of cotton yarn neps, viz. seed coat and fibrous neps, have been classified by means of two standard classifiers, namely support vector machine and probabilistic neural network using the features extracted from the images of neps. At first, the region of interest is located in the captured images using k-means clustering algorithm, from which six features are extracted. These extracted features are used as dataset (both training and testing) for classifiers. A K-fold cross validation technique has been applied to assess the performance of the two classifiers. The results show that the neps classification accomplished by means of image recognition through these classifiers achieves nearly 96-97% accuracy for the test data set. Experimental results show that the required time for training probabilistic neural network is significantly less as compared to that of support vector machine.

4 illus, 2 tables, 14 ref

001012   Gupta M K;Srivastava R K (Mechanical Engineering Dep, Motilal Nehru National Institute of Technology, Allahabad-211 004, Email: mkgupta@mnnit.ac.in) : Properties of sisal fibre reinforced epoxy composite. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 235-41.

Sisal fibre reinforced epoxy composites have been prepared by hand lay-up technique followed by static compression, using various fibre weight fractions (15, 20, 25 and 30%). Mechanical properties, thermal properties, water absorption properties and dynamic mechanical analysis of sisal composites are investigated. The results show that the addition of sisal fibres in epoxy matrix up to 30 wt. % increases the mechanical, thermal and water absorption properties. The values of storage modulus and loss modulus increase with the increase in fibre content up to 25 wt. % and then decrease. The glass transition temperature (T_g) is obtained from loss modulus and tan delta curve. The value of T_g obtained from loss modulus curve is found to be lower than that obtained from tan delta curve.

3 illus, 2 tables, 19 ref

001011   Gromada M;Gardini D;Galizia P;Galassi C (Institute of Power Engineering Ceramic Dep CEREL, Research Institute, 1 Techniczna St., 36-040 Boguchwala, Poland, Email: davide.gardini@istec.cnr.it) : Processing and characterization of screen printing Ba_0.5Sr_{0.5<>Co0.8Fe0.2O3-<10 0> inks.} Bull Mater Sci 2016, 39(2), 559-67.

Oxygen-selective membranes based on thin layers of barium-strontium-cobalt ferrite Ba_0.5Sr_0.5Co_0.8Fe_0.2O_3-δ (BSCF) perovskite oxide were manufactured. Five BSCF inks prepared with different carriers and milling treatments were rheologically characterized, screen printed on three different porous alumina substrates and sintered at 1050 and 1150°C. The resulting membranes were characterized. The data collected on the rheological properties of inks (flow curves, thixotropic behaviour, linear viscoelasticity), their processability by screen printing, and the quality of the layers obtained after sintering represents an important starting point to set up the next research activities.

11 illus, 4 tables, 14 ref

001010   Gorji M;Bagherzadeh R (Textile Engineering Dep, Amirkabir Univ of Technology, Tehran, Iran, Email: mgorji@aut.ac.ir ) : Moisture management behaviors of high wicking fabrics composed of profiled fibres. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 318-24.

The effect of fibre cross-section shape, fibre content, yarn count, number of monofilaments, and loop density on moisture management properties of some knitted fabrics composed of profiled fibres has been investigated. The moisture management properties are assessed by moisture management tester in order to simulate the dynamic human body sweat transferring in different directions of clothing system. The indexes of the moisture management tester have been analyzed and interpreted regarding micro and macro equations of porosity, and horizontal and downward wicking. The results show that profiled cross-sectional fibres affect the moisture management and sweet transferring behaviors of functional knitted fabrics. Furthermore, accumulative one way transport capacity of fabrics is mainly dependent on both yarn (staples or filament) and fabric (loop density, knitting pattern and fabric thickness) structures.

3 illus, 3 tables, 16 ref

001009   Ganesan P;Karthik T;Muthu Kumar A;Maruthamani D (Textile Technology Dep, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004, Email: ganeshg007@gmail.com) : Electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness of copper planted fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 293-7.

Electroless plating of copper on cotton and polyester fabrics has been done with varying CuSO₄ concentration (8, 12, 16 and 20 g/L) and temperature (30°, 40°, 50° & 60°C) for 30min at all levels. The plating depositions are characterized by scanning electron microscope and X-ray diffraction respectively. The physical properties, such as tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and electromagnetic interference shielding performances have also been investigated. It is found that the tensile and tear strength of cotton and polyester fabrics decrease with the increase in CuSO₄ concentration. The abrasion resistance of copper plated cotton fabric decreases more than that of polyester fabric. The surface resistance of the copper plated polyester fabric shows poor electrical resistance and the electromagnetic interference shielding effectiveness, but has high shielding effectiveness up to 30dB than cotton fabrics.

1 illus, 4 tables, 12 ref

001008   Chakraborty S;Kothari V K (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi-110 016, Email: iitkothari@gmail.com) : Prediction of radiative protective performance of multilayered clothing. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 284-92.

Performance of protective clothing assembly exposed to pure radiant heat source has been modeled and time to cause the second degree burn injury is predicted by solving the model equation. These findings have been compared with experimentally determined values. Good agreement has been found with experimental and predicted data. Effect of different fabric parameters and boundary conditions has been estimated by varying these parameters and then solving the equations. Fabric reflectivity and thickness appear to be the most important parameters dictating the heat transfer process. Temperature dependent thermal conductivity and specific heat are the other critical parameters governing the heat flow.

3 illus, 2 tables, 23 ref

001007   Ammayappan L;Das S;Guruprasad R;Ray D P; Ganguly P K (Chemical and Biochemical Processing Div, ICAR-National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technolog, 12 Regent Park, Kolkata-700 040, Email: lamayappan@yahoo.co.in) : Effect of lac treatment on mechanical properties of jute fabric/polyester resin based biocomposite. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(3), 312-17.

An attempt has been made to dissolve lac in methanol / sodium hydroxide solution and to use this lac solution as a coupling agent for jute fabric. Lac treated jute fabric has been used to reinforce the unsaturated polyester resin (USP). Flexural strength and inter-laminar shear strength (ILSS) of lac modified jute/USP biocomposite have been evaluated and then compared with sodium hydroxide treated jute as well as untreated jute based biocomposites. Lac treated jute fabric shows higher flexural properties of the biocomposite than that of untreated jute fabric, which infers that lac acts as a good compatibliser between jute fibre and USP. Lac treatment on jute fabric enhances the flexural properties of biocomposite better in alkaline medium than in solvent medium. It is concluded that lac treatment can be used to improve the flexural and ILSS properties of jute / thermoset resin based biocomposite.

4 illus, 2 tables, 22 ref

001006   Ali Raza Z;Rehman A;Anwar F;Usmab A (Chemistry Research Laboratory, National Textile Univ, Faisalabad-37610, Pakistan, Email: zarazapk@yahoo.com) : Develpment and antibacterial performance of silver nanoparticles incorporated polydopamine-polyester-kinitted fabric. Bull Mater Sci 2016, 39(2), 391-6.

Metallization is one of the finishing processes in textile treatment that can produce multifunctional effects. The present study dealt with the development of an antibacterial polyester-knitted fabric via facile and green impregnation of silver nanoparticles (SNPs). This was done by applying a polymeric foundation on the polyester-knitted fabric by simply dip-coating in the aqueous solution of dopamine. Then the SNPs were in situ fabricated and impregnated on the surface of polydopamine-modified polyester-knitted fabric in an aqueous solution of AgNO₃ at room temperature. Thus, a multi-functional finishing of polyester-knitted fabric was done. The Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was done to confirm the polymer attachment. Scanning electron microscopy equipped with energy dispersive X-ray was done to confirm the presence of SNPs on treated fabric. The crystallography of the treated surface was examined by X-ray diffraction. The antibacterial properties of treated fabrics against broad spectrum bacterial strains were investigated and found significant.

7 illus, 18 ref

024344   Garbyal R (Clothing and Textiles Dep, College of Home Science, G.B. Pant Univ of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar, U.S. Nagar, Uttarakhand, Email: reenagarbyal@gmail.com) : Angora/merino and eri silk: a new union woven fabric for fashion. Asian J Home Sci 2015, 10(2), 437-41.

Woven designed fabrics with ecofriendly fibre are more in demand. Now-adays consumer are fashion and health conscious so that they switch towards the ecofriendly fabrics. In this paper, woven designed union fabric has been woven in dobby loom by using twisted angora/merino (38.84 tex), untwisted angora/merino (36.65 tex) and eri silk (27.23 tex) yarns. Total number of 6 union woven fabrics were prepared by using 3 types of design i.e. zigzag, combination of herringbone and basket weave and combination of twill and plain weave from which three union woven fabrics with eri as warp and untwisted angora/merino as weft and three union fabric with twisted angora/merino as warp and eri as weft were made. These designed woven union fabrics were assessed for fashion fabric. It was found that designed union fabrics suitable for apparel purpose.

1 illus, 3 tables, 2 ref

023210   Zhang K;Ge M (School of Textile & Clothing, Jiangnam Univ, Wu Xi 214 122, China, Email: ge_mingqiao@126.com) : Preparation and characterization PA6/titania conductive fibres. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 150-5.

The surface activity of TiO₂ has been modified by using sodium hexametaphosphate to improve its dispersibility in matrix. The modified TiO₂ nanoparticles have been mixed with polyamide 6(PA6) into granulation, and then white conductive fibres are prepared using different weight ratios by melt spinning. The as-spun fibres are characterized by using high insulation resistance meter, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction and differential scanning calorimeter. The results show that the treated conductive TiO₂ material is well dispersed in the PA6 matrix with good compatibility and that the electrical conductivity of as-spun fibres is excellent. Considering the mechanism of its electrical conductivity, it is concluded that the conductive mechanism is tunnel when the TiO₂ content is less than 5%, the mechanism is composition of both tunnel and ohmic when TiO₂ content is between 10% and 15%, and it is ohmic conductive mechanism if the TiO₂ content is more than 15%.

5 illus, 2 tables 19 ref

023209   Zahedi P;Rafie A;Wojczak E (School of Chemical Engineering, College of Engineering, Univ of Tehran, PO Box 11155-4563 Tehran, Iran, Email: phdzahedi@ut.ac.ir) : Morphological and thermal properties of optimized electrospun cellulose acetate nanofibres during deacetylation in different pH values. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 11-18.

The aim of this study is to investigate morphology, molecular structure and thermal behavior of optimized cellulose acetate nanofibrous mats during deacetylation reaction in both basic and acidic environments. Firstly, the polymer concentration, applied voltage, flow rate and syringe needle tip-collector distance have been optimized via a response surface methodology. This optimization of the above independent variables leads to obtain a uniform and smooth morphology for cellulose acetate nanofibrous samples with a minimum average diameter of 166.2 nm. Afterward, the effect of basic and acidic environments on the morphologies, functional groups changes on the surface of the samples and their thermal behaviors have been studied by using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Fourier transformed infra-red (FTIR)spectroscopy and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) respectively. The FTIR results show that a deacetylation reaction occurs in nanofibrous samples treated with KOH solution as compared to those samples treated with HCl solution. Due to the altering functional groups in the chemical structure, cellulose acetate nanofibres are converted to cellulose with a semi-film like shape. The SEM micrographs confirm these results obtained from FTIR spectra. DSC thermograms reveal different values at melting point of the samples before and after immersion of the samples into the both environments. Moreover, some changes in crystallization appear within the molecular structure of the samples during solidification.

4 illus, 1 table, 16 ref

023208   Vishnu Vardhini K J;Murugan R;Tamil Selvi C; Surjit R (Textile Technology Dep, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004, Email: muruganavd@gmail.com) : Optimisation of alkali treatment of bananaj fibres on lignin removal. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 156-60.

Alkali treatment of banana fibres has been used for lignin removal. The effects of various experimental parameters, such as alkali concentration, time and temperature, on lignin removal of banana fibres have been ascertained by response surface methodology using Box-Behnken design. The optimum conditions for lignin decomposition are identified as alkali concentration 11g/L, treatment time 150 min and temperature 90 °C. The fibres treated under the optimum conditions are characterized based on chemical composition, diameter, density, moisture regain, strength, crystallinity and colour.

2 illus, 5 tables, 17 ref

023207   Urs G T;Prakash M B N;Ananda H T;Somashekar R (Physics Dep, Univ of Mysore, Manasagangotri, Email: rs@physics.uni-mysore.ac.in) : Radial distribution function of natural fibres and synthetic water soluble polymers using X-ray diffraction. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 9-12.

Radial distribution functions for few natural polymers like silk, cotton, and synthetic water soluble polymers like polyvinyl alcohol, hydroxy propyl methylcellulose and carboxy methyl cellulose have been studied using their X-ray diffraction data. It is observed that the radial distribution function for the polymers of the same family gives same correlation function, showing that the pair correlation or the radial molecular arrangement between the nearest neighbors in these polymers are same, irrespective of their nature and existence. The detailed report of radial distribution functions of polymers is briefly explained in this study and the comparison between the samples belonging to the same family is carried out on the basis of inter-molecular interactions. The microstructural parameters like crystallite size and lattice strain are also computed for all the samples using W-H plot method. The crystallite sizes obtained for these polymers are compared and then interpreted with the obtained pair correlation functions. It is observed that the natural fibres show higher correlation function than synthetic polymers studied in comparison, this is due to ordered arrangement of molecules which are found only in some pockets of a general amorphous regions of natural polymers. The standard method of computation of pair correlation value using X-ray data is also given here.

14 ref

023206   Technikova L;Tunak M;Janacek J (Textile Evaluation Dep, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Technical Univ of Liberec, Studentska 2, CZ 46117 Liberec, Czech Republic, Email: lenka.technikova@tul.cz) : Pilling evaluation of patterned fabrics based on a gradient field method. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 97-101.

An objective method for the detection of pills on different kinds of patterned fabric based on image analysis techniques has been developed. The proposed method for pilling evaluation includes the 3D reconstruction of a fabric surface with pills and the detection of pills of fabrics with various patterns. Shadows created by pills with lateral illumination of the samples, while images of the samples are being captured, are the basic element for the 3D reconstruction of the fabric surface using a gradient field method. By using this method, the effect of fabric pattern on the results of 3D reconstruction is suppressed. The reconstructed fabric surface enables effective segmentation of pills from a fabric texture using simple image processing tools. Important characteristics of pills, such as number, area, perimeter, density and contrast, are extracted for the objective pilling evaluation. The results show that the proposed method is applicable for the evaluation of pilling not only for unicolor fabrics but even for fabrics with various kinds of patterns.

^ssc3 illus, 2 tables, 25 ref

023205   Suqiong L;Weidong G;Wei X;Ming G;huie L (School of Textile and Garment, Jiangnan Univ, Wuxi, Jiangsu-214 122, China, Email: lianghe@jiangnan.edu.cn) : Tie-dye technique and pattern features. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 180-7.

Relationship between tie-dye technique and image pattern has been studied. Based on digital image processing, average value of HSV (hue, saturation, value) tri-component of valid tie-dye area, proportion of incompletely dyed area in HSV color space and the Tamura first three texture features of digital tie-dye image have been extracted. Then, the repeated tests and analysis of variance (ANOVA) of rotation speed and concentration have been done. The results show the obvious impact of concentration and rotation speed on the color and texture feature of tie-dye pattern. Furthermore, back propagation neutral network is developed and partial pattern features with low correlation is used to forecast the tie-dye concentration and rotation speed. The experiment results show the 100% rate of forecast, which proves that pattern features can effectively achieve the technique forecast.

6 illus, 4 tables, 11 ref

023204   Salimian S;Moghaddam M K;Safi S;Mortazavi S M (Textile Engineering Dep, Isfahan Univ of Technology, Isfahan-841 56, Iran, Email: kamali@tx.iut.ac.ir) : Properties of wool dyed with pinecone powder as a by-product colorant. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 173-9.

The properties of the pinecone, an Iranian natural and low cost agricultural by-product, have been studied for its potential use in textile dyeing. In this research, wool fibres due to their high affinity towards the aqueous extract of natural dyes have been used and their dyeability with powdered pinecone is studied. The effects of two different variables, including dye concentration and mordant type on the color properties of dyed wool fibres are investigated. To determine the functional group of pinecone colorant, FTIR test is also performed. The colorimetric properties (color strength, color difference, color coordinates CIE Lab) and the color fastness (wash and light) results are considered for quantifying evaluation of dye concentration and mordant type effects. The results show that the wool possesses high affinity towards pinecone dyeing solution, and the used mordant methods exhibit different shades ranging from beige to brown with good fastness.

5 illus, 3 tables, 15 ref

023203   Sabur E C;Sarpkaya C (Textile Engineering Dep, Cukurova Univ, Turkey, Email: emelc@cu.edu.tr) : Optimization of sizing parameters with taguchi method. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 73-7.

The optimum sizing parameters to obtain good strength of sized yarn and efficiency of weaving machines have been determined. Sizing process has been carried out using Ne 50/1, 60/1 and 70/1 cotton yarn and 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 m/min dispatch speed of warp yarn in sizing machine. Sizing solution viscosity is kept as 14, 20, 24 Ns/m². Taguchi L18 mixed experimental design has been used for the analysis of input factors selected. The dispatch speed is found to be the most influential parameter for determining the strength of the sized yarn and the efficiency of the weaving machine speed. Optimum yarn strength is found using Ne 70/1 cotton yarn, 40 m / min dispatch speed and 24 Ns/m² sizing solution viscosity. The optimum weaving machine efficiency is obtained using Ne 60/1 cotton yarn, 70 m / min dispatch speed and 20 Ns/m² sizing solution viscosity.

2 illus, 3 tables, 24 ref

023202   Purwar R;Sahoo P;Jain M;Bothra U;Yadav P (J Juneja, C M Srivastava, Applied Chemistry and Polymer Technology Dep, Delhi Technological Univ, Shahbad Daulatpur, Delhi-110 042, Email: roli.purwar@dce.edu) : Dope dyeing of polyacrylonitrile filaments with ratanjot. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 84-8.

Dope dyeing of polyacrylonitrile (PAN) filaments with Ratanjot extract as a colouring additive has been studied. The rheological properties of dope solution are investigated through Brookfield viscometer. The dope solution shows both shear thinning and shear thickening behavior. Different concentrations of Ratanjot extract ranging from 0.25% to 1% (w/w) are incorporated in PAN dope solution (20% w/v) and filaments are spun on laboratory wet spinning machine using dimethyl formamide as solvent and water as non-solvent. The filaments are characterized for their mechanical, morphological, fastness and antibacterial properties. The colour obtained on acrylic filament is found to be magenta. With the increase in Ratanjot extract concentration the tensile strength of filament increases. The scanning electron micrographs of Ratanjot incorporated filament shows hollow structure with circular cross-section. The dope dyed filament shows excellent wash fastness properties and very little antibacterial activity.

1 illus, 2 tables, 16 ref

023201   Narayana Swamy V;NingeGowda K N;Sudhakar R (Fashion and Apparel Design Dep, The Oxford College of Science, Bangalore-560 102, Email: gvnnarayan@gmail.com) : Extraction and dyeing conditions of natural dye from flowers of Plumeria rubra L. on textiles and fastness properties. Indian J Tradl Knowledge 2016, 15(2), 278-84.

Eco-friendly dye was extracted from the flowers of Plumeria rubra. This dye was applied on cotton and silk fabrics with 2%, 5% and 10% o.w.f. dye concentrations in the presence and absence of alum, tannic acid and tartaric acid mordants using the exhaustion method. The color strength, CIE lab values and fastness properties of the dyed samples were assessed. The mordants were found to influence the colour strength and fastness properties of dyed cotton and silk fabrics. Dyed samples were tested for antimicrobial activity and found to possess antibacterial activity. The flowers of Plumeria rubra offer a potential source of natural dye for cottage dyeing industry.

4 illus, 5 tables, 16 ref

023200   Malik S A;Saleemi S;Mengal N (Textile Engineering Dep, Mehran Univ of Engineering & Technology, Jamshoro-76062, Sindh, Pakistasn) : Predicting hydrophobicity of silica sol-gel coated dyed cotton fabric by artificial neural network and regression. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 67-72.

Artificial neural network (ANN) and multiple linear regression (MLR) have been used to predict the hydrophobicity of silica sol-gel coated dyed cotton fabric using different nanoparticle concentrations, dye concentrations, dye types and cross linker types as predictors. A total of 32 samples have been dyed with reactive and direct dyes using two dye concentrations at HT dyeing machine. To develop nano roughness on dyed fabric, with an aim to create super hydrophobic dyed cotton, different concentrations of silica nanoparticles with a combination of silane hydrophobes (alkyltrialkoxysilanes), and silane cross-linkers, i.e. tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) and teramethoxysilane (TMOS) are applied by sol-gel technique using dip-dry-cure process. The hydrophobicity is measured by AATCC spray rating technique. The coefficient of determination (R²) indicates that there is a strong correlation between the measured and the predicted values with a trivial mean absolute error; ANN is found to be more powerful predicting method than MLR. The most influencing variables revealed through correlation coefficient and P-values of regression model are silica nanoparticle and dye concentration. Empirical and statistical models have been proposed to predict dyed cotton fabric hydrophobicity without any prior trials, which reduces cost and time.

2 illus, 3 tables, 18 ref

023199   Majumdar A (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi-110 016, Email: majumdar@textile.iitd.ac.in) : Stabilised blending delay time in blowroom multimixer. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 89-92.

Blending delay time of a multimixer represents its potential to mix fibres arriving from different bales. A generalized expression for stabilized blending delay time for multimixer has been derived here. It is found that blending delay time of a multimixer varies at the initial cycles of operation and thereafter it stabilizes. The stabilized blending time is higher for multimixers with more number of chambers.

^ssc4 illus, 3 ref

023198   Liu X;Su X (School of Textile and Clothing, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan Univ, Wuxi-214 122, PR China) : Yarn hairiness on ring spinning with modified yarn path. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 221-5.

Yarn hairiness on a modified ring spinning system with a pair of offset device which can change the horizontal offset of spinning triangle continuously has been discussed in this paper. It is observed that the selection of appropriate right horizontal offset of spinning triangle can help to reduce the spun yarn hairiness with "Z" twist, whereas the selection of appropriate left offset can help to reduce the spun yarn hairiness with "S" twist. The corresponding appropriate horizontal offsets are given by experiments for five types of yarn, namely 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s and 60s with "Z" twist respectively. Finally, the explanations of hairiness reduction are given according to the fibre tension distributions at spinning triangle.

^ssc5 illus, 2 tables, 14 ref

023197   Li Q L;Huang F Q;Jiang X J;Wen D;Feng X N;Wu K (Key Lab for Eco-friendly Dyeing & Finishing of Textile of Sichuan High, Chengdu Textile College, Chengdu-611 731, China, Email: lqlxp1010@163.com) : Preparation and properties of a washable flame-retardant coated fabric. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 40-6.

In this study, a flame-retardant-coating (FRC) agent has been prepared using hydrophobic organic silicone-phosphorus-nitrogen flame retardant and acrylic emulsion. Polyester-cotton blend fabric (P/C) has been treated with FRC agent, and the finishing process, thermal decomposition, flame retardancy, washability, softness and other properties are studied. Results show that the treated fabrics are of good flame retardancy; LOI is up to 32%, thermal degradation rate reduces by 7.8%/min and thermal damage reduces by 74%. Limiting oxygen index (LOI) is found to be 24.6% and 23.7% for 5 and 10 times washing. The fastness shows excellent washability.

5 illus, 6 tables, 21 ref

023196   Li Q;Brady P R;Hurren C J;Wang X G (Institute for Frontier Materials, Deakin Univ, Geelong, Victoria 3217, Australia, Email: liqing99@gmail.com) : Colour effect on fibre diameter measurement with OFDA 2000. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 102-6.

In this study, wool samples from Merino, Corriedale and Lincoln sheep with a wide range of fibre diameters have been dyed and measured for fibre diameter using OFDA 2000 in both dry and conditioned states. Variation in fibre diameter is observed on fibres with different colours in both dry and aqueous conditions. This could be due to an optical effect or more likely due to physical changes in the dyed fibres owing to the presence of dyes. Apart from their physical bulk, dyes may also affect the owing water content of fibres and hence have an influence on the swelling of fibres when they are measured under ambient regain and wet conditions.

^ssc4 illus, 2 tables, 16 ref

023195   Khurana P;Pant S;Chanchal (National Institute of Fashion Technology, NIFT Campus, Hauz Khas, New Delhi-110 016, Email: purva.khurana@nift.ac.in) : Telia rumal, double ikat fabric of Andhra Pradesh. Indian J Tradl Knowledge 2016, 15(1), 167-72.

Indian craft tradition, an integral part of Indian life is one of the most vibrant and vital aspect of contemporary times to the extent that crafts has become the inseparable parts of its social fiber. However, in view of newer technologies and considering the ever-changing contours of market preferences, there is an imperative need to preserve these ancient legacies lest they should get ruined. Many of traditional crafts are languishing and along with these, is indigenous knowledge of some of the traditional textile techniques. One such craft is alizarin dyed double ikat telia rumals of Andhra Pradesh, which is genesis to ikat tradition in Andhra Pradesh. In India, Andhra Pradesh, is the most prolific pro-ducer of ikat textiles, where in Pochampalli, the ikat industry has grown immensely in the last four decades. But in this era of rapid industrialization, it has succumbed to pressure in favor of using quicker dyeing procedures by use of synthetic dye material and thus, is losing its individuality. There has been a global concern regarding use of eco-friendly dyeing material, which has renewed interest towards use of eco-friendly dyes. The present paper focuses on the documentation of the double ikat telia rumal using natural alizarin dyeing process, with respect to design, raw material, and production processes. The instant paper also examines contours of the ikat production process from its pure form, to more market-oriented production and to highlight the changes that the craft has undergone for contemporary production practices.

2 illus, 7 ref

023194   Ke G;Li W (Textile Science and Engineering Dep, Wuhan Textile Univ, Wuhan-430 200, China, Email: li780713@hotmail.com) : Preparation of viscose/wool powder blended fibre and optimization of its acid dyeing. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 195-9.

The viscose/wool powder fibres blended with different superfine wool powder content have been produced using wet spinning method. The viscose/wool powder blended fibres have been dyed with acid red dye and the effects of dyeing conditions such as dyeing temperature, dye bath pH, salt concentration, dyeing time and wool powder content are studied. The higher dye exhaustion is obtained at 90°C, with 5% sodium sulfate and 4 pH. The per cent of exhaustion increases with wool powder content. All the dyed fibres show good colour fastness to washing and rubbing. The blended fibres show characteristics of both cellulosic fibre and wool fibre.

6 illus, 2 tables, 14 ref

023193   Karthik T;Murugan R (Textile Technology Dep, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004, Email: muruganavd@gmail.com) : Spinnability of coton/milkweed blends on ring, compact and rotor spinnig systems. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 26-32.

The physical characteristics of cotton/milkweed yarns spun on ring, compact and rotor spinning systems in relation to blend proportion and chemical treatment of milkweed fibres have been studied. During spinning of milkweed fibre blends, greater fibre losses in carding and flies during drafting are observed in further stages. It is observed that amongst the ring, compact and rotor yarns, the compact-spun blended yarns show higher yarn tenacity and elongation values followed by ring and rotor-spun yarns. The rotor-spun blended yarns show lower yarn unevenness, imperfections and hairiness values than compact and ring-spun yarns due to its mechanism of yarn formation. With the increase in milkweed proportion, the yarn quality deteriorates, irrespective of spinning systems due to lack of cohesiveness and brittleness of milkweed fibres, and drastic reduction in yarn quality is noticed for 40/60 cotton/milkweed blend. By considering the effect of chemical treatment of milkweed fibres, it is observed that the alkali-treated milkweed fibre blended yarns show better yarn properties due to improvement in fibre friction and elongation values followed by dyed and untreated milkweed fibres.

5 illus, 2 tables, 25 ref

023192   Karthik T;Murugan R (Textile Technology Dep, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004, Email: muruganavd@gmail.com) : Optimization of drafting zone variables in ring spinning for the production of cotton/ milkweed blended yarns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 121-8.

Cotton/milkweed (60/40) blended yarn of 29.5 tex has been produced on a ring spinning system. The influence of fibre friction, front zone roller setting and front top roller pressure at speed frame and ring frame on yarn properties has been studied using the Box and Behnken design. The optimum conditions within the processing limits of the machines are established. It is observed that a higher fibre friction gives higher yarn tenacity and lower yarn unevenness, imperfection and hairiness. The roller setting and top roller pressure also influence the yarn properties at speed frame and ring frame. With the increase in roller setting the yarn tenacity increases initially and then decreases, while other yarn properties deteriorate at wider roller settings. The increase in top roller pressure leads to reduction in yarn unevenness, imperfection and hairiness due to better control of milkweed fibres in the drafting zone. In general, blends of cotton/alkali-treated milkweed fibres with moderate to lower roller setting and moderate to higher level of top roller pressure give better results.

6 illus, 4 tables, 12 ref

023191   Kandhavadivu P;Ratinamoorthy R;Surjit R (Fashion Technology Dep, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore-641 004, Email: r.rathinamoorthy@gmail.com) : Enhancement of heat and mass transfer between human body and hospital mattress to reduce pressure ulcer formation. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 200-6.

A pressure relieving mattress has been developed along with multilayered functional bed cover to reduce the magnitude, direction and/or duration of pressure and temperature, thereby avoiding excessive tissue distortion on vulnerable parts of the body. The interface pressure and temperature between body and mattress are measured and analyzed using the parameters, such as deformation index and pressure gradient. The pressure relieving mattress developed reduces the interface pressure by 30-60%, and reduces the heat generated by <126> 3° C. Hence, the new mattress developed along with the cover sheet reduces the chance for pressure ulcer formation and improves the comfort of the patients.

4 illus, 3 tables, 19 ref

023190   Kalaivani D;Karthick S A;Gobi N (Textile Technology Dep, Anna Univ, Chennai-600 025, Email: gobsnn@gmail.com) : Filtration propeties of staple fibre thermo-bonded nonwoven fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 62-6.

Thermal bonded polyester staple fibre nonwoven fabrics have been produced, considering different proportions of binder fibres, directions of web laid as variables, and bonding time and bonding temperature as constant. The influence of process variables on fabric properties, such as bursting strength, air permeability, bubble point diameter, mean flow pore diameter and filtration efficiency with three different particle (1, 0.5, and 0.3μ) along with the overall filtration efficiency have been tested and the results are compared with spun laced nonwoven fabrics. The fibres are oriented in cross and parallel directions, this arrangement of fibres leads to increase in bursting strength. The trend in air permeability of cross-laid web fabrics is found similar to spunlaced fabrics. The pore sizes of the thermal bonded fabrics have been minimized by laying the web in cross direction and increasing the binder fibre proportion; it has minimum variation with spunlaced fabrics. Aerosols of different particles are fed to the upstream of the filters with the face velocity of 16.6 cm/s which is then maintained as constant. The maximum filtration efficiency achieved is found to be 93.13% which is around 13% higher than that of the spunlaced fabric. For 80g/m² fabrics with 0.3μ particles, the filtration efficiency of spun laced fabric is only 38% which is around one and a half time lesser than 80 g/m² of thermal bonded fabric; 90g/m² fabrics show equal and better properties than 100g/m² fabrics.

1 illus, 1 table, 17 ref

023189   Ghorbani V;Vadood M;Johari M S (Textile Engineering Dep, Amirkabir Univ of Technology, Tehran, Iran, Email: mortezavadood@gmail.com) : Prediction of polyester/cotton blended rotor-spun yarns hairiness based on the machine parameters. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 19-25.

Effect of rotor type, rotor diameter, doffing-tube nozzle, and torque-stop on polyester/cotton rotor-spun yarn hairiness have been studied. To model the hairiness of polyester/cotton blended yarn, artificial neural networks and regression models have been used. The results show that there are significant differences in performance of network with different architectures and training algorithms. The network with two hidden layers has the best performance and can predict hairiness with high accuracy. Relative importance of input variables is studied with partial derivatives method based on the optimum network. The results indicate that rotor type and rotor diameter have the greatest and least effect on the blended yarn hairiness.

1 illus, 6 tables, 25 ref

023188   Eser F;Aktas E;Onal A (Suluova Vocational Schools, Amasya Univ, 05100, Amasya, Turkey, Email: ferda.eser@amasya.edu.tr) : Dyeing quality of walnut shells on polyester and polyester/viscose blended fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 188-94.

This paper reports an investigation on the dyeing efficiency of walnut (Juglans regia) shells for dyeing of polyester and polyester/viscose blended fabrics. Various extraction conditions, such as material - liquor (M : L) ratio, extraction temperature, extraction time and pH have been studied in order to obtain highest color depth. Optimal production of natural dyes from walnut shells with extraction is achieved at 80°C for 75 min keeping the M : L ratio as 1:30 at pH 2. The effects of dyeing time, mordant and dyeing method are investigated in terms of color strength (K/S). Optimum dyeing with Juglans regia shells is achieved with meta-mordanting method for 90 min treatment using AlK (SO₄)₂.12H₂O (alum) mordant for polyester fabric. For polyester/viscose blended fabric, best dyeing conditions are achieved in the presence of FeSO₄.7H₂O mordant, using meta-mordanting method for 90 min treatment. The fastness properties are evaluated with respect to light, washing and rubbing. The results show that walnut shell extract with metal mordants has potential applications on polyester and polyester/viscose blended fabrics.

4 illus, 1 table, 40 ref

023187   Eren O;Ucar N;Onen A;Karacan I;Kizildag N; Demirsoy N;Vurur O F;Borazan I (Polymer Science and Technology Dep, Istanbul Technical Univ, Istanbul, Turkey, Email: ucarnu@itu.edu.tr) : Effect of differently functionalized carbon nanotubes on the properties of composite nanofibres. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 138-44.

Effect of differently functionalized (carboxyl, amine and hydroxyl functionalized) multi-walled carbon nanotubes (MWCNTs) on the structure and properties of composite polyacrylonitrile nanofibres produced by electrospinning has been studied. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy has been used to confirm the successful functionalization of carbon nanotubes while mechanical testing, electrical conductivity, scanning electron microscopy, differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray diffraction analysis have been used to characterize the composite polyacrylonitrile nanofibre webs. The addition of MWCNTs, either pristine or functionalized, results in slight increases in the diameter of nanofibres. The tensile strength, crystallinity, thermal properties are all found to be affected by the functional groups of the carbon nanotubes, while the conductivities of the nanowebs seem to be insensitive to the different functional groups of the carbon nanotubes.

4 illus, 3 tables, 32 ref

023186   Das D;Patra A K;Jakhar R;Sunder S (Textile Chemistry Dep, The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani-127 021) : Electrochemical bleaching of cotton. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 217-20.

An attempt has been made to compare the effect of electrochemical bleaching with conventional bleaching of cotton. Electric current is used in the preparation of a bleaching agent to replace bleaching powder. The NaOCl generated from electrolytic cell (2.5-3.5V potential difference) is sufficient to produce powerful bleaching agent with available chlorine varying from 1.2 g/L to 1.3 g/L. Time required for bleaching reduces to 10-20 min, as compared to 90 min in conventional bleaching. Whiteness index, brightness index and yellowness index have been measured by a spectrophotometer. There is a remarkable increase in whiteness index and brightness index and decrease in yellowness index in the electrochemically bleached samples as compared to that in conventionally bleached cotton. Dye uptake values show an increasing trend with electrochemical bleaching. The present study aims for achieving the desired efficiency to remove conventional drawbacks of sodium hypochlorite bleaching.

^ssc1 illus, 2 tables, 8 ref

023185   Das A;Majumdar A;Roy S (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi-110 016, Email: apurbadas65@gmail.com) : Prediction of fabric hand characteristics using extraction principle. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 33-9.

Prediction of fabric handle characteristics using extraction principle has been studied. An instrument for objective measurement of fabric handle characteristics has been developed using nozzle extraction method. This instrument measures the force exerted on the periphery of the nozzle by the fabric being drawn out of the nozzle on the periphery of the nozzle. This force, called the radial force, is a measure of the certain low stress mechanical characteristics of the fabric that determine handle. The instrument also measures the force required to extract the fabric through the nozzle. Woven fabric samples have been sourced from industry and categorized into suiting and shirting fabrics. The fabric samples were also tested in KES-F system. An attempt has been made to predict the shear force and bending rigidity by using artificial neural network. It has been observed that there are very good correlations between the extraction force values and the various KES-F parameters. The fabric extraction force obtained through nozzle extraction instrument is found to be well enough to predict fabric handle/feel value.

5 illus, 2 tables, 14 ref

023184   Das A;Majumdar A;Gupta P (Textile Technology Dep, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi-110 016, Email: apurbadas65@gmail.com) : Fabric hand characteristics by nozzle extraction technique. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 115-20.

In this study, nozzle extraction principle has been used for measuring the fabric feel objectively. Fabric feel is one aspect for handle of fabric, related to its mechanical properties. The nozzle extraction instrument (fabric feel tester) measures radial force as well as extraction force during the pulling of fabric specimen through a circular nozzle. The radial and extraction forces are functions of many physical and mechanical characteristics of fabric, e.g. bending, shear, friction, compression, extensibility, etc. which influence fabric feel sensation. A unique parameter (fabric feel factor) has been derived and calculated by using different important parameters related to extraction behavior of fabrics. It gives a single value for fabric feel. Experiments have been conducted on denim fabrics. The effects of functional softener (silicon) concentration and different denim washing treatments on fabric softness are evaluated subjectively as well as objectively. Very good correlation is observed between subjective and objective measurements.

3 illus, 8 tables, 10 ref

023183   Dagang M;Hongmei Z;Shouxiang J;Songmin S; Zhuoming C (College of Textiles and Clothing, Qingdao Univ, Qingdao, China, Email: chinesemdg@163.com) : Prepartion of antibacterial microfibre. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 145-9.

Three different kinds of antibacterial microfibres (270D, 300D and 330D) have been developed by adding 2-4 wt % nano silver masterbatch in the melt spinning process. The mechanical properties, silver content and morphology have been examined with tensile tester, inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectrometer and scanning electron microscope respectively. Their antibacterial abilities are also studied with KS K 0693:2011. The results show that the added nano-particles have little influence on mechanical properties of antibacterial microfibres and their max strain and tenacity are similar to that of common manmade fibre. The fineness of the 270D, 300D and 330D samples are found to be 0.23, 0.26 and 0.30 den, and the corresponding added silver contents are 265.5, 231 and 259 ppm respectively. It is also observed that all samples bacteriostatic reduction rates are about 99.9% for both Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia before washing. But after washing, it drops to 65.4%/75%, 91.9%/97.7% and 94.8%/99.9% respectively for both the bacteria in case of 270D, 300D and 330D samples. It is concluded that 300D and 330D microfibre samples have good antibacterial ability before and after washing.

1 illus, 3 tables, 13 ref

023182   Choudhury M;Devi D (Life Science Division, Institute of Advanced Study in Science and Technology, Paschim Boragaon, Guwahati-781 035, Email: dipali.devi@gmail.com) : Impact of high temperature and pressure on sericin scouring of muga silk cocoons. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 93-6.

Silk cocoons from Antheraea assamensis silkworms have been degummed under high temperature and pressure (autoclave) conditions and the efficiency of degumming is assessed in terms of weight loss, reeling length and fibre quality. The silk cocoon sericin removal percentage by autoclave degumming is found to be maximum (23.67%) as compared to conventional alkali degumming (22.28%). The autoclaved fibre is found easily reelable and produce 280 m of length with 10 numbers of fibre breaks. The morphology of fibres shows smooth surface throughout the length and improved mechanical behavior in terms of tensile properties. The molecular conformation estimated by FTIR and thermal behavior analysis shows unchanged nature of the core fibroin fibre degummed under autoclave conditions. Taken together, these results show the utilization of ecofriendly and less hazardous method of autoclave degumming for production of mechanically strong fibres with uniform surface smoothness.

^ssc2 illus, 25 ref

023181   Cheriaa R;Marzoug I B;Sakli F (Lab of Textile Engineering (LGTex), Univ of Monastir, Iset Ksar Hellal-BP 68-5070, Tunisia, Email: cheriaar@yahoo.fr) : Effects of industrial ironing on mechanical and dimensional properties of cotton, wool and polyester fabrics. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 167-72.

The influence of industrial ironing cycle on low-stress mechanical properties and on dimensional changes in three selected weave fabrics has been studied. The experimental results are statistically analyzed using ANOVA. It is observed that the compressional properties measured by FAST system are the most influenced by the process of ironing. Cotton and wool fabrics show much variation in mechanical and dimensional changes compared to polyester fabric.

3 tables, 18 ref

023180   Chen J;Meng C;Xie J;Pan L;Zhou D;Chen J N (International Institute for Urban Systems Engineering & School of Civ, Southeast Univ, Nanjing-210 096, China, Email: chenjpaper@yahoo.co.jp) : Laser eco-printing technology for silk fabric patterns. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(1), 78-83.

In the study, silk microstructures and the yellowing mechanism have been investigated to develop laser eco-printing technology for silk patterns (SLEP). Carbonized microstructures are divided into bar-shaped clots and sludge materials with small holes. The former are created by the initial pyrolysis (melting) of raw silk on the fabric surface; and the latter are the combined result of the development of the former during in-depth printing. The chemical composition and structure of the thermogravimetry/pyrolysis features of raw silk under different atmospheres have also been investigated. The yellowing mechanism of silk after SLEP and the feasibility of SLEP are demonstrated by analyzing its thermogravimetry/pyrolysis properties. Silk fabric patterns printed by SLEP exhibit yellow chromaticity with 10% lightness, and their boundaries are clear and distinct.

5 illus, 33 ref

023179   Chakrabarti S K;Saha S G;Paul P;Dewan A R;Das K;Chowdhury P K;Gon D P;Ray P (Indian Jute Industries, Research Association, 17 Taratola Road, Kolkata-700 088, Email: skchakrabarti@ijira.org) : Specially treated woven jute geotextiles for river bank protection. Indian J Fibre Text Res 2016, 41(6), 207-11.

In this paper, studies on treatment of jute geotextile with isothiazolinone and fluorocarbon derivatives to impart antimicrobial and water repellent property have been reported for its improved end use specific performance. It is observed that the treated jute geotextile possesses higher durability in water as well as soil-water ambience.

2 illus, 3 tables, 9 ref